CALMANTHOLOGY , whose popularity is accelerating with each passing page (season), will be holding its annual pop-up store from March 25th (Wednesday) at Isetan Shinjuku Store, Men's Building B1F, Men's Shoes. Shoe designer Makoto Kaneko, who pushes forward into an unknown world of creativity, always gives us new insights with each interview. We will report in detail on the mind of this "shoe man" who has opened a new page as he enters his fifth season, and the four new models.

And so, a new page was turned—the needle of my heart, which had moved so dramatically, returned to its origin.

In past interviews with Mr. Kaneko , I was able to learn a lot about the worldview and creative process of CALMANTHOLOGY . Or rather, I thought I knew. One of the "secrets" he revealed was that, true to the origin of the brand name, which means a serene "poetry collection without words," the theme changes every two pages (season) or one spread (one year). And in the previous interview about "PAGE.04," he told me that "with PAGE.05, I intend to return to my own origins." A return to origins, meaning that he will reconstruct the 12 models of his first collection, which he, as a "shoemaker" involved in every step of shoemaking, positions as the "ultimate standard," not just in terms of design? --I was made to realize that my imagination was indeed trite and shallow.

"In PAGE.03, I drew inspiration from the Buena Vista Social Club and explored the theme of 'dancing without dancing,' significantly shifting the 'needle' within myself. In PAGE.04, I used female models to express a genderless and fashionable worldview. Based on these experiences, I felt a strong need to return the 'needle' I had moved back to its original position."

However, he said that he never even considered modifying the "perfect" and "ultimate" Type 12 from the start.

"Even though we're going back to our roots, that doesn't mean we're revisiting the designs of our first collection, which is our starting point. In my mind, those 12 styles are literally 'perfect.' But I wanted to add a new team, like a spice, to complement this 'ultimate standard.'"


They're not the quintessential daily standards like cap toes, double monks, or wingtips, but there are days when you just feel like wearing them a few times a week, or even a few times a month. They're like an absolutely essential spice in the simple yet complex cuisine that is CALMANTHOLOGY . Adding such a new model brings even more depth and richness to this "ultimate standard." For Mr. Kaneko, this was a return to his roots.

"When I'm creating something, I design it with the image of it being 'something that will have an effect as a spice,' but once it's actually added to the product lineup, it's no longer just a spice. It becomes a part of the world of CALMANTHOLOGY . This process is perhaps very much like cooking."

For Mr. Kaneko, there is no hierarchy between "standard" and "spice." He believes that what constitutes "standard" and what constitutes "spice" ultimately depends on the user's preferences.

"Because that choice is the real thrill of fashion, after all (laughs)."

A new model that adds a touch of spice, even deepening the "ultimate"

This collection is like a spice that further deepens the world of CALMANTHOLOGY . What specific new models have been created?

"Although I created each model with the intention of them all playing a role like a spice, the result is four models that don't really have anything in common. These were only possible because I went through the process described in PAGE.03 and 04; they are models that I could never have made if I had wanted to on PAGE.01."

The first item they introduced was the "POLISH BOOTS," which stand out for its subtle yet distinctive combination of different materials.

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• CALMANTHOLOGY
• "POLISH BOOTS" 132,000 yen

"These Polish boots are based on boots worn by Polish women in the 18th and 19th centuries. Originally, they were feminine boots with ribbon laces and high heels. We've redesigned them as modern men's shoes."

The line from the compact vamp towards the heel appears to rise considerably. This is a clever design to create a glamorous "hip line" that integrates seamlessly with the heel, even with the low heels of men's shoes. Furthermore, the shoelaces are made of lustrous rayon rather than the usual waxed cotton. This, too, is Mr. Kaneko's reinterpretation of the original ribbon's femininity. And the combination of these shoelaces and the velour calfskin used for the opening hides an even more surprising gimmick.


"This velour calf leather is from Charles F. Stead, a British company known as one of the finest suede tanneries. The dark brown velour is dyed black at a domestic factory, and then a resin coating is applied to intentionally give the surface an uneven, irregular texture."

Instead of using black velour from the start, what exactly was it that they wanted to express by going through the trouble of repeatedly dyeing a "perfect dark brown" black?


"I believe shoes look cooler when they're worn in, and I aim for a gradual fading of the black dye as you wear them, revealing the dark brown base coat in the creasing and wear areas. Rayon shoelaces not only have a ribbon-like sheen, but they also have high friction, rubbing against the leather surface as they move naturally."

The reason for applying a resin coating to the finely textured and beautiful velour calfskin is that "we wanted to express a vintage-like texture that is created when the resin cracks." This approach of offering the highest quality without overtly emphasizing luxury is very typical of Mr. Kaneko.

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  Top: "SOUTHERN TIE" ¥107,800

  Bottom left: "SHORT VAMP" ¥106,700

  Bottom right: "TASSEL.LOAFER" ¥107,800

The collection features a new last called "SOUTHERN TIE," which allows the cork insole to settle with wear, creating a plain toe wingtip shoe that takes on the shape of a dress shirt collar. Other new arrivals include the "SHORT VAMP," a slip-on shoe that focuses solely on the beauty of the tongue's rise when worn, and loafers with an integrated throat opening like pumps and striking crocodile-embossed kip leather tassels. The attention to detail in these other new items is just as impressive as that of "POLISH BOOTS." Each of these is a masterpiece worthy of being the main attraction, far beyond mere embellishments.

In this interview, we discussed Mr. Kaneko's Zen-like design philosophies and their correlation with the expression and details that result from them. We also touched upon the design inevitability of the numerous historical "classics" created by his predecessors. But for more details...unfortunately, that will have to wait for another time. If you're interested, be sure to visit Isetan Men's during the exhibition period. Why not ask Mr. Kaneko himself about the thoughts behind his latest creations?