With business styles rapidly changing and more workplaces encouraging casual attire, the way people choose leather shoes is also changing. In this context, JOSEPH CHEANEY , a brand founded in Northampton, considered the mecca of British shoemaking, and boasting a history of over 130 years, is gaining popularity, especially among millennials.

This time, we focused on the appeal of the brand, which proclaims its commitment to "PURELY MADE IN ENGLAND" shoemaking, and asked three people—Tomoyasu Tabata, the men's shoe buyer at ISETAN MEN'S , Kenta Yoshimura, who is in charge of sales at the official importer Watanabe Sangyo, and Nozomi Tsubaki, who is in charge of PR—about why JOSEPH CHEANEY is in demand right now.

Reasons to recommend JOSEPH CHEANEY as your "first pair of British shoes"

At Tabata Isetan Isetan Shinjuku Store, Men's Building , B1F, the men's shoe section offers a wide variety of leather shoes, mainly dress shoes, ranging from around 20,000 yen to over 200,000 yen. Among them, JOSEPH CHEANEY plays a central role in the zone that brings together imported shoes, and has gained immense trust from younger generations because shoes can be purchased from around 50,000 yen. The brand's flagship model, "ALFRED," is particularly popular.

—What do you think are the reasons for its popularity?


Tabata 's shoes are popular not only for their traditional Goodyear welted construction, robust design, and overall excellent cost performance, but also for their proactive approach to creating new products while skillfully incorporating current trends, which resonates with younger generations. Furthermore, with sustainability and engagement becoming key concepts in the shoe world, British shoes perfectly align with the idea of "taking care of things and using them for a long time," which is another reason for their popularity.

--I see. How do you analyze this popularity, Mr. Yoshimura?


Yoshimura: At our directly managed store, "British Made," we've seen an increase in customers in their 30s who come in looking for British dress shoes. JOSEPH CHEANEY underwent a rebranding in 2009, and since then, while developing original products, they've also been actively collaborating with other brands, and I feel that the brand's policies are gradually resonating with fashion-conscious people.
Regarding the production of our leather shoes , we handle every step of the process, from leather cutting to the final polishing, in-house. As a result, the quality is naturally high, and we are constantly making adjustments to our lasts (shoe molds). This has made our shoes popular not only for their value but also as a representative example of "leather shoes that fit the modern era."


The Yoshimura Collection features distinctive models for each last, offering a wide range of styles from dressy closed-laced shoes to trendy open-laced shoes, and even workwear that can be worn casually or dressed up. The variety of choices is a major appeal, whether you become a fan of a particular last after trying them on once, or simply select a style to match your outfit.

The "125 Last" continues to grow in prominence as an eternal masterpiece.

-- The 125 last is gaining popularity in JOSEPH CHEANEY collection.

The Yoshimura 125 last is a last newly developed in 2011 to commemorate the brand's 125th anniversary. Developed as a "shoe last that fits Japanese feet," it is also known as a combination last (*), and is characterized by its ability to utilize the advantages of a universal round toe shape while providing a comfortable fit for the heel cup. (*For a foot width of F, it has a heel cup that is approximately D 1/2 width.)

—What aspects of the 125 Last series appeal to you?

Not only has Tabata Import Shoes successfully addressed long-standing challenges such as the shape of the heel and the appropriate length of the toe, but their ambition to create a completely new last in 2011 for a British shoe brand is also extremely valuable. Their ability to grasp the market and create products that respond to the times is a major attraction.

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  JOSEPH CHEANEY
  Left: Shoes "Alfred" ¥75,900

  Right: Shoes "Wilfred" ¥75,900

In addition to the iconic "ALFRED" model, the semi-brogue "WILFRED" is also popular in the Yoshimura 125 last. The broguing (decorative perforations) gives it a casual, playful feel, but it also has an elegance that sneakers can't achieve, even when paired with a slightly more casual outfit. It's selling well as a second pair for those who became fans of the 125 last with the ALFRED.

The secret to the popularity of "Kengon," the ultimate casual shoe that's been creating a buzz.

--The 125 Last is the star of the dress line, but could you recommend any other models?

I recommend the "CAIRNGORM II R (Kengon)," a popular model from Yoshimura that has a unique presence while also being suitable for more refined looks. It's a shoe from JOSEPH CHEANEY 's casual line, the Country Collection, and it uses the 4436 last, which has been around in the UK for over 75 years and is the longest-running last in the brand's 130-year history. It's a powerful combination of a military last and a commando sole.

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  JOSEPH CHEANEY
• Shoes "Kengon" 78,100 yen

Tabata: I've worn them too, and even though they have a double sole, the stiffness of the sole isn't that noticeable. Their unique look makes you want a pair in your shoe collection. They capture the spirit of the times well as "country-style dress shoes," so they're popular in stores. The ones Yoshimura is wearing are Kengon, right?


Yoshimura : Yes, I bought them around 2013. They have a double sole, but they're so flexible that I forget they're leather shoes when I'm wearing them (laughs). They're incredibly durable shoes, and the upper leather is from a German tannery. The grain is resistant to scratches, so you can wear them hard as they are, and I also like that they develop character depending on how you take care of them. Oh, by the way, our company chairman has a pair of Kengon shoes that he's been wearing for over 25 years.


I want to wear these until they look like this. The commando soles haven't worn down at all.
Yoshimura's shoes have a nice, worn-in look, as if he's finally found his own pair.
Kengon Tabata's shoes strike the perfect balance between fashion, design, and functionality—all the qualities demanded of modern leather shoes—making them truly "all-weather." They can be worn even on rainy days and perfectly match customers' needs, as they are suitable for both formal and casual occasions.

--This season, the "Kengon Hybrid," which is likely to be useful in business settings, will make its debut.

Tabata: That's right. The highlight of this season is this "CAIRNGORM H (Cairngorm Hybrid)." It's a shoe that really encapsulates the brand's appeal and philosophy.

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  JOSEPH CHEANEY
• Shoes "Kengon H (Hybrid)" ¥78,100

Yoshimura: This hybrid model uses the 175 last, which is frequently used in open-laced models in the home country. The toe shape is a round toe without any quirks, similar to the 125 last, and the upper is made of Chromexcel leather, making it water-resistant. Hybrid means a fusion of dress and casual, and it has a Dainite sole that looks more dressy than the command sole of the Kengon. The joint between the upper and the welt is a storm welt specification to prevent water and sand from entering through the gap.
Tabata : These shoes truly showcase the strengths of JOSEPH CHEANEY 's dress shoes. The last, sole, and specifications have all been changed to meet the demands of Japanese businessmen. The lining is a fashionable black, so they look great even when you take them off.
The textured finish of the Yoshimura upper adds to its individuality, making it a model that perfectly suits today's dressy styles.
This urban model will appeal to both fans of military shoes and country shoes.

Women's models appear at ISETAN MEN'S store. What are the brand's appealing points from a woman's perspective?

--This JOSEPH CHEANEY More Variation Pop-up will also feature three classic women's models. We would love for men to bring their partners to see them, but from a woman's perspective, what aspects of the brand appeal to you, Ms. Tsubaki from PR?


I also work at the flagship store, and I've noticed a growing trend among young men towards sustainability, emphasizing the importance of "using good quality items for a long time." The 125 last is particularly popular. For men who appreciate fashion or are looking for a second pair, the Wilfred and the more casual Kengon, both made with the 125 last, are well-received. The Kengon, in particular, is often chosen by those with an outdoorsy vibe.
Tabata , how old are the shoes that Tsubaki-san is wearing today?
Tsubaki: I 've had these plain-toe shoes I'm wearing today for about four years. I like them because they have a simple and clean design, so they're easy to wear not only for business occasions where I want to look smart, but also with casual skirts, and I like that they're comfortable because they don't have heels.



Yoshimura JOSEPH CHEANEY 's women's models feature a last specifically designed for women, and are made in the same factory, using the same manufacturing methods and materials as the men's models, which is why they are a popular choice for sophisticated women.
The Tsubaki last is slender, but the wingtip has intricate and delicate brogue detailing, giving off an elegant feel from the feet up. The loafers also have a slender toe and are very pretty.
Tabata: This time, we mainly talked about the models that will be featured in the pop-up store, but I think that knowing how to enjoy the aging process will allow you to wear them with even more affection.



*All prices include tax.

inquiry
Isetan Shinjuku Store, Men's Building , B1F = Men's Shoes
03-3352-1111 (main representative)