2020.02.18 update

[Interview] Crossing the boundaries between the outdoors and fashion -- and wander: A rich connection with nature

It's immediately clear that the brand is based on outdoor wear. While the design is simple and familiar, it undeniably possesses the functionality and fashion appeal that the times demand. And wander, a brand that launched in Spring/Summer 2011, has quickly gained a large following.

While existing outdoor brands have fiercely competed by pursuing functionality, and wander has added a fashion element to the mix, bringing a new mood to the industry. There is a "casualness" to it that connects the mountains and the city, allowing you to enjoy nature on a daily basis.

ISETAN MEN'S will open a directly managed corner on the 6th floor of Isetan Shinjuku Store, Men's Building in the Men's Contemporary section, starting February 19th (Wednesday). While this will be a development in a context closer to fashion, this is rather a reflection of the times, where the boundaries between work, play, and lifestyle have become more diverse and no longer exist.


This time, we spoke with Keita Ikeuchi and Mihoko Mori, designers of ISSEY MIYAKE, a brand whose careers are the complete opposite of the outdoor world, particularly in the world of high fashion. They discussed a wide range of topics, including the brand's philosophy, its signature items, and their expectations for the brand's expansion into Isetan Shinjuku Store, Men's Building .


Clothing that can withstand outdoor activities and is also fun to wear.


—Both of you previously worked at Issey Miyake. What led you to launch and wander?


Ikeuchi : I started camping after being invited by a colleague at my previous workplace, but I found that there weren't many clothes I wanted to buy at outdoor specialty stores. Certainly, from a functional standpoint, they were made to withstand harsh natural environments, but they weren't something I could enjoy as fashion. When I talked about this with my camping friends, it seemed like everyone felt the same way. So we decided to make the clothes we wanted to wear ourselves. Outdoor wear that combined fashion and functionality was uncharted territory at the time. That's why I judged that there was a lot of room for expression as a designer, and I launched and wander in 2011.
The Mori brand name comes from the German word "wandervogel." Rather than aiming to climb mountains over 6,000 meters high, it's a word that evokes a sense of "enjoying wandering around and feeling free in nature," which perfectly suits our outdoor style. And wander is named with the hope that many people will incorporate "time spent in nature" into their daily lives.

—I think the high level of fashionability is a major difference between your brand and other outdoor brands.

Mori: "We don't really think, 'Because others are doing it this way, we have to do it this way.' We don't want to create something that's different from others; we simply want to create something that fits our own lifestyle. That's why we're very conscious of things like what kind of materials feel good to wear, and what colors and shapes look cool. Silhouette is just as important to us as functionality. I think it's the accumulation of these small details that ultimately differentiates us."


Ikeuchi: I don't want to create clothing where the fashion aspect is so prominent that people in the outdoor industry look at our items and say, "That's not outdoor wear." What's important is that it's authentic outdoor wear and fashion that you can enjoy the design of; those two elements always go hand in hand.

──How much do you consider trends when it comes to enhancing the fashion aspect of your designs?


Mori: As has always been the case, we haven't incorporated trends into our clothing designs. However, for some casual items, such as shirts, we change the color, collar size, and width based on our own "feeling" rather than trends. For other items, we actually can't really incorporate trends. Outdoor wear has a layering method called "layering" to maintain comfort according to the weather and body temperature. It's divided into three layers: base layer, middle layer, and outer layer, and functionality is the top priority for these, so we wouldn't make the sizing a little looser just because it's trendy.
Unlike Ikeuchi Mode, there are limits to what's possible and limitations when it comes to outdoor wear. However, if technology advances, new materials are created, or if we encounter factories with outstanding techniques, the door to the next stage opens. As a result, new clothes can sometimes be created from that.


To make time spent in nature more fruitful


--What are the brand's key items?

There are two popular items that are staples at Ikeuchi . One is the backpack. This is a 30L backpack made from X-Pac, a fabric used for yacht sails. A key feature is that the zipper extends all the way to the bottom of the bag, making it easy to put in and take out items at the bottom.

  • and wander Backpack ¥35,200


Ikeuchi
: The most unique feature is that the rain cover extends, allowing it to be used as a chest bag when hung down in front. It's designed to store maps and cameras, which are convenient to have on hand when hiking.
Mori 's other item is a coat that he continues to make, updating it every year. The underarms are completely open so it can also be worn as a poncho, allowing you to wear a backpack underneath.


  • and wander coat 77,000 yen

With its completely waterproof construction, including the seams and zippers, this item is highly sought after for festivals and camping trips. This season's pattern is inspired by wildflowers growing on dry ground, and the design was inspired by a scene I saw while traveling in Texas last year.

── At ISETAN MEN'S store will be moving from the sports-focused floor to the casual floor in Isetan Shinjuku Store, Men's Building . We're looking forward to seeing what kind of reaction we'll get. I hear that the store manager will be Ms. Koyama, who worked for a long time at Margaret Howell in Isetan Shinjuku Store, Men's Building .

Ikeuchi and MARGARET HOWELL share the same parent company. I'm very relieved that Koyama-kun, who has been at Isetan Shinjuku Store, Men's Building for a long time and knows our customers well, will be the store manager.


Koyama: This time, at the and wander direct corner in Isetan Shinjuku Store, Men's Building , there are staff members who are very knowledgeable about the outdoors, but personally, I'm not someone who's been deeply involved in the outdoors for a long time, and this is my first time wearing and wander clothing. However, I think there are many customers like me who are unfamiliar with the joys of the outdoors. I'd like to use that to my advantage and convey the appeal of the outdoors and and wander from a perspective that is closest to the customer's.

--It would be wonderful if our customers could make various discoveries and enrich their lifestyles.

Ikeuchi: Rather than creating something that draws a line between "outdoor" and "fashion," I've continued to create things that utilize both. At Isetan, my products will be seen by fashion-conscious people who love clothes. I'm very interested to see how they will be incorporated into their wardrobes.
Many of our customers are also from when we were at MARGARET HOWELL in Koyama . We hope to communicate closely with them and convey the appeal of our brand. We would be happy to offer advice on how to feel closer to nature through functionality and design, even when you're in the city, and how to live a comfortable everyday life.
I'm a little anxious about what kind of reaction Mori will have. But I hope that I can convey even a little bit of the richness that nature brings to people's lives, and the charm of spending time in the mountains. I hope that people will be able to feel that through the brand, including the artwork in the store. By spending time in nature, you can experience the healing power of forest bathing, and you can definitely learn important things that you can only learn because it's an extraordinary experience. I hope that our brand can give such insights to people who have never been interested in the outdoors before.

Event Information
and wander promotion

Photo: Natsuko Okada
Text: Ryuta Morishita

*All prices include tax.

inquiry
Isetan Shinjuku Store, Men's Building 6th Floor = Men's Contemporary
03-3352-1111 (main representative)
For inquiries via email, please click here.