[Interview] Pierre Corthay | The birth of the world's most beautiful sneakers
Sneakers "'90" ¥96,800Pierre Corthay released his sneakers in December 2017.
"We took inspiration from the Corte-Alca, a signature model of our atelier, and incorporated a two-eyelet lace stay. The five-part lace stay is also a highlight. By separating it, we were able to ensure a perfect fit even on insteps with uneven contours. The model name is '90, representing the year we founded the company."
This season sees the introduction of a platform version of the '90, and the addition of the "Fane," which combines various materials such as python, patent leather, silver, and glitter leather in one shoe, and the "Escal," which mixes brogue design with a rubber sole, have resulted in a truly impressive lineup. This is not a collection that can be put together casually.
From left to right: Sneakers "Fern" ¥102,300, "'90EVO" ¥96,800, "Escal" ¥112,200* "Fern" and "Escarpone" are made to order. (Delivery: Scheduled for mid-March or later)
"I noticed that customers coming to my fashion house were wearing sneakers from other brands. I thought, 'What a serious situation!' and that's when I decided to take action (laughs)."
Pierre has always loved sneakers just as much as he loves leather-soled shoes. He has worn almost all of the so-called masterpieces. He even owns several pairs of Stan Smiths, including some that are still in production.
"Sneakers are an essential part of modern lifestyles. And I wanted to create all sorts of shoes with my own hands. Sneakers were an item I had to tackle eventually. Of course, I was confident I could succeed. When it comes to handling leather, I'm confident I can beat any big name."

The calfskin and python leather were on par with bespoke shoes. But what impressed me even more than the fact that these materials were used so generously was the originality of the design, as seen in the "Escale" model, with its crazy pattern fennec and suede accents around the lace stays, and the patina finish. It was on a completely different level from not only sneaker specialty brands but also major luxury brands.
"'90" gave me the same, or even greater, emotional impact than when I first listened to Corthay .

Guided by my sculptor aunt
From a young age, Pierre made his aunt Bella's studio his playground (incidentally, both of his parents were actors, and it seems he came from a family with a well-developed right brain). Bella was a ceramic artist whose works were exhibited in Parisian museums, and her materials included not only plaster and mahogany, but also terracotta and leather.
While playing with various scraps of material, Pierre became drawn to leather, and at the age of 16, he joined the Companion de Duvoir, a guild for training craftsmen. As a shoemaker's apprentice, he traveled around ateliers throughout France, honing his skills. After seven years of travel, Pierre worked at John Lobb before becoming the chief of the bespoke department at Berluti .
As you know, his subsequent achievements are well-known. After establishing his atelier in 1990, he quickly rose to prominence, and before long, he was on par with fashion houses boasting a 100-year history. In 2003, he established his long-desired own factory and officially launched his ready-to-wear line, making the name Corthay widely known.
While the delicate and mature handiwork and the artistic French-derived patina certainly cannot be overlooked, the deciding factor was undoubtedly Beguet d'Aigle's creativity. That's all there is to it. The way the flat vamp with its upright sidewalls tapers towards the toe is the epitome of elegance.
" Corthay 's last, 'Sable,' is apparently called 'Begg-a-Gruel' in Japan, but strictly speaking, it's different. Begg-a-Gruel is a last that originated in the world of bespoke shoemaking in England, and the toe shape I carved is gentler in comparison. That last is based on a last I carved for an Armenian customer. Armenians are known for their high, large aquiline noses, and my customer also had a prominent nose. With the conventional Begg-a-Gruel, it was impossible to achieve a balance with his nose. This toe shape is the one I finally perfected on the third attempt."

The new Spring/Summer 2020 collection, featuring a sable last, is themed around "La Medina," a unique location in Morocco. The collection is finished in fashionable colors that can be seen in the streets of Morocco.
In 2008, Pierre was awarded the title of Maître d'Art, which is equivalent to a Living National Treasure in Japan.
His truly exceptional aesthetic sense becomes readily apparent when we delve into the hobbies (though perhaps a little too serious to be called mere hobbies) that have accompanied him throughout his life.
Although he chose the path of a shoemaker, his interest in sculpture, which he was introduced to by his aunt, never waned. He was fascinated by Henry Moore and Plancusi, a pioneer of minimalist art, and that remains true to this day. A few years ago, he held an art exhibition featuring shoes as his motif, which attracted considerable attention.
As he grew older, his interests expanded to the world of music. His passion for music was so strong that he even built a studio in his home, which is quite extraordinary. Pierre now listens to all kinds of music, but originally he favored Nils Wetter Molvær, who was considered a new force in Scandinavian jazz, and Chet Baker, who represented West Coast cool jazz.
What underlies that taste is a respect for tradition and a minimalist aesthetic. Indeed, that was clearly evident in their sneakers.
■Related Articles : [Interview] Pierre Corthay | The journey of a rising shoemaker and the worldview he has arrived at
- Isetan Shinjuku Store, Men's Building , B1F = Men's Shoes
Text: Kei Takegawa
*All prices include tax.
inquiry
Isetan Shinjuku Store, Men's Building , B1F = Men's Shoes
03-3352-1111 (main representative)
For inquiries via email, please click here.

![Hunting World | Pop-up store featuring a wide selection of bags with functional beauty that elevates your business style [Isetan Shinjuku Store]](https://ug7rtk3vglg3.global.ssl.fastly.net/images/empty.png)