Vintage is the ultimate realm that those who pursue the true value of shoes reach. We visited two masters whose works will be exhibited at the ISETAN Shoe Fair.

The fascinating world of men's shoes from the early 20th century, when they were first established. —OLD HAT

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"The tradition of making men's shoes in Britain was established in the late 19th century, from the 1880s to the 1900s. Then, the Oxford shoe, or low-cut shoe, was created in the 1910s. From there, it spread throughout the world. Vintage shoes from this period are the most interesting."

These are the words of Shinichi Ishida of Old Hat, a shop that deals in British vintage clothing. His fascination with vintage shoes began when he left Life Gear, a trading company that also ran the shoe store Trading Post, and started Old Hat. Among the goods sent from Britain were old bespoke British shoes such as John Lobb, and these were featured in magazines. Since then, every time he goes to Britain to buy shoes, he exchanges information with local shoemakers and Japanese craftsmen who are training under them, and through this, he has become more knowledgeable about the value of vintage shoes. He found the opinions of craftsmen who actually make handmade shoes to be helpful in understanding the excellence of the craftsmanship and high level of skill in old shoes.

Starting with bespoke shoemakers that still exist in London, such as John Lobb, George Cleverley, and Foster & Son, Mr. Ishida traces the history and lineage of British shoemaking by following the shoemakers that were absorbed by these established shops. What emerges in this process is the true meaning behind details that now remain simply as craftsmanship. Pursuing vintage shoes is also about gaining a deep understanding of shoemaking as practiced today.

To preserve the rich leather shoe culture that also existed in Japan. ──japan-shoes-1870

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The shoes with a vintage feel that are uploaded to Instagram every day. The handle name "1870" refers to the year Katsuzo Nishimura established a shoe factory in Tsukiji, Tokyo, and began manufacturing shoes. I thought he must be a senior figure, but the person who came to the interview location was a young man in his twenties. Mr. Inoue collects vintage Japanese-made shoes. He owns more than 150 pairs of shoes made from the 1950s to the 60s, and in some cases even up to the 70s, a time when mass production of shoes had not yet become established.

Initially, I was collecting old American shoes. However, I couldn't find any that fit me. Around that time, I saw "Manaslu Shoes," which had been sold at Maruzen bookstore, in a magazine. Intrigued by their rarity, I thought they were more interesting, and that's how I started collecting old Japanese shoes.

Shoes from that era were mostly hand-stitched, meaning they were often made using the hand-sewn welted or McKay construction methods. Mr. Inoue speculates that because these were made by small shoe shops, they couldn't afford to introduce the machinery used for the Goodyear welted construction method. However, this meant that meticulous handiwork was incorporated throughout the shoes.

Mr. Inoue primarily collects these vintage shoes for the purpose of wearing them. However, he says that recently he feels it's more of a mission than a hobby. He researches the shoes he collects at the National Diet Library and other places to identify the shops that sold them, but sometimes he can't find any information at all. Thus, his feeling that he must preserve them grows stronger, and Mr. Inoue sets out to find new shoes.

A comprehensive introduction to boots, which are the roots of the brand. ──BUTTERO

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Buttero, founded in Tuscany in 1974 by Mauro Sani, means "cowherd" in Japanese. As its name suggests, in the 1970s it was a boot manufacturer, producing riding boots and classic boots. At the ISETAN Shoe Fair, they will be showcasing deadstock vintage boots that evoke the legacy of this brand. The use of leather with a natural texture is also a major attraction.

Releasing our stock of "our own vintage" wines. -- PADRONE

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Padmore, a Japanese shoe brand renowned for its craftsmanship, is releasing a large collection of deadstock shoes—what could be called its own vintage collection. The appeal lies in the combination of richly textured leather and last shapes and styles that offer just the right amount of casualness. A variety of shoes with diverse looks are offered at reasonable prices.


Photo: Satoko Imazu, Takao Ohta
Text: Yukihiro Sugawara