Located in Hiroo, Minato Ward, one of Tokyo's most upscale areas, Charcoal TOKYO is a trendy shop that boasts of being a "pocket T-shirt specialty store" and offering genuine casual fashion for adults. Ahead of its first-ever pop-up store, we interviewed two key figures: the representative, Daisaku Itaya, and the store manager and buyer, Ryo Takei. They shared with us their incredibly original and edgy concept and the many details they pay attention to.

Daisaku Itaya (left), representative of Charcoal Tokyo, and Ryo Takei (right), store manager and buyer.

A specialty shop for genderless and ageless "pocket t-shirts" for adults.

Charcoal Tokyo opened in October 2018. It's a young shop, less than a year old, but the shop's concept is remarkably simple. Rather than focusing on breadth, the product selection pursues originality and depth, giving it a truly mature feel. And that's no surprise, as the representative, Daisaku Itaya, started working part-time at a major select shop while still a student, and has been involved in sales, merchandising, and management for nearly 30 years, making him a true fashion expert. His close friend, Takei, is also a specialist who has been active on the front lines of the shop for over 25 years.

Charcoal Tokyo's concept is to offer adult casual wear centered around pocket t-shirts, available only at this shop. It embodies their passionate desire to showcase the appeal of "pocket t-shirts," which they themselves are "obsessed" with, including how to wear them.


"I love them so much that I only wear T-shirts with pockets on a daily basis (laughs). Just having a pocket makes them look dressier, and they're also functional. I think they're a special item that allows you to subtly express your individuality."

Itaya says that she can't even remember the last time she wore a T-shirt without a pocket. Takei, on the other hand, says that she sometimes wears pocketless T-shirts, especially when it's related to her favorite Major League Baseball. But she adds, "It just feels a bit empty around the chest (laughs)," showing that she has quite a strong preference for them.

Even within the category of pocket tees, there's a wide variety: short-sleeved and long-sleeved, plain, with logos or prints, and made from materials like waffle knit or velour. However, this shop's color selection is mostly limited to white, navy, and gray, making them surprisingly basic at first glance.



"With the exception of vintage remakes and rock tees with added pockets, our basic philosophy is to 'combine elegant pocket tees with playful items.' For our original designs, we thoroughly pursue the materials, offering five types of fabrics carefully selected from the yarn up. Personally, I prefer sturdy fabrics like the pocket tees that Gap produced in America in the 1990s, the kind that you can enjoy breaking in by wearing and washing them. That's why my favorite is the '29-count double-ply jersey' made with cotton from the American West."

While the elegant and sophisticated "Supima mercerized cotton jersey" and the sweatshirt-like "loopback fleece" are also appealing, this choice is perhaps typical of Mr. Takei, who is particular even about laundry detergent in order to achieve the ideal aging process.

This is the lightest and softest material among our original pocket t-shirts. The surface is brushed with sandpaper for a comfortable, enveloping feel. A wide variety of colors and sizes are available. The pocket features a "Charcoal" print. "OC Super Soft Crew S/S" ¥9,180 View Product

A pocket T-shirt made from a unique, textured fabric. The octagonal logo, considered a lucky symbol because it avoids sharp edges, is embroidered using sashiko stitching, symbolizing the wish that the wearer will be surrounded by happiness. "SC Textured Solid Sashiko Poc Crew S/S" ¥15,120 View Product

Furthermore, the wide range of options for the original design—six colors and seven sizes—is also noteworthy. Another concept that Charcoal Tokyo champions is that it can be enjoyed by a genderless and ageless audience, from women to large men. That's why it makes perfect sense that a store specializing in casual items like pocket tees is located in Hiroo, a renowned upscale residential area.

What are the "seven essential items" you can get at a small shop in a celebrity neighborhood?

"No matter how good a shop is, in a highly competitive fashion area like Aoyama or Harajuku, it can easily get lost in the crowd. We wanted to reach sophisticated adults, so we aimed to create a shop that is easy for them to visit and worth making a special trip for."

Itaya and his colleagues set their sights on the area around Tengenji Bridge in Hiroo, which is nicknamed "Golf Street." It's a hidden gem that's easily accessible by both train and car, but according to Takei, it seems to have the kind of character you'd expect from the area.


"We often have affluent residents from the neighborhood who mistake us for a golf shop and just drop in. Sometimes they buy a pocket T-shirt on a whim, like it, and become repeat customers... Up until now, I've been in areas and shops with a lot of younger people and customers with clear purposes, so it really feels like I'm experiencing the unique character of Hiroo."

Pocket tees are at the heart of everything. But that's not all there is to Charcoal Tokyo, and that's what makes it so interesting. Backed by years of experience, it boasts a solid style and the ability to offer suggestions that are sure to satisfy adults. And to match that, it offers a variety of attractive "seven essential items" that you simply can't find anywhere else.

"Pocket T-shirts are definitely the core of our offerings, but they're positioned as the main item among seven essential items that lift your spirits. We don't exclusively sell pocket T-shirts."

"A sophisticated pocket T-shirt paired with playful items"—this is the styling recommended by "Charcoal Tokyo," which skillfully combines seven essential items.

The brand proposes seven categories of fashion essentials to enrich your life: "pocket T-shirts," "headwear" including hats and caps (including umbrellas), "scarves" that can be used for dressing up or as an accent, "footwear" such as sandals and socks, "bags" such as drawstring bags and grocery bags, "clothing" based on sets, and pocket-sized "treasures." The secret to its unwavering persuasiveness lies in the fact that it reflects Itaya's own style, such as "I don't keep shoes with heels" and "Drawstring bags are the basic choice for bags."

"Not everyone can wear whatever they want on weekdays, so I want to suggest fashion items that will lift your spirits on your days off, keeping in mind the extraordinary occasions like travel. The main premise of the items is that they should be easy to match with pocket tees. I wear almost nothing but pocket tees all year round, and I only wear sandals. I love Koshu Inden, so all my bags are drawstring bags."

What's even more surprising is that not only are the shop's original and vintage treasures unique, but all the items they purchase are exclusive, made-to-order items that can only be found at Charcoal Tokyo. "We want to make the fact that you can only buy these items here our shop's strength," they say.

Charcoal Tokyo is finally opening its first-ever pop-up store at Isetan Shinjuku Store, Men's Building 7th floor = Men's Authentic. They plan to offer a selection of exquisite items from their new autumn/winter collection as pre-sales and limited releases. Finally, we asked Itaya-san about his feelings regarding the event.


"We are incredibly excited for the opportunity to introduce Charcoal Tokyo's existence and initiatives to sophisticated adult customers at Isetan Men's, Japan's premier showcase. We focus on pocket tees all year round, so we are conscious of creating a product range that is not influenced by trends and can be worn in both summer and winter. We want people to see for themselves our 'seven essential items,' including our timeless and seasonless pocket tees that can be worn for a long period of time."

Photo: Shunsuke Shiga
Text: Junya Hasegawa (america)

*All prices include tax.

inquiry
Isetan Shinjuku Store, Men's Building 7th Floor = Men's Authentic
03-3352-1111 (main representative)