Whether they are masters of classics or those who inherit traditions while taking on new challenges to suit the modern era, their approaches vary, but their attitude towards craftsmanship and the passion they harbor for each stitch are strong. This article is a record of interviews conducted by Tomohiro Inaba and Yuki Kuchimoto, who are in charge of men's tailored clothing, during their visit to Naples, Italy in January 2019. It focuses on "Neapolitan tailoring," which is only completed through delicate handiwork, and delves into the stories behind the people involved and the products.

For our first installment, we visited the workshop of Alfonso Sirica, a man known for his unwavering pursuit of perfection and his impeccable work.

The most important thing is "having a style," and that style was unwavering.

The town of San Valentino Trio, near Naples, Italy. This is where Alfonso Sirica's suits are born.

When I visited their workshop, which also serves as their home, I was immediately surprised to find that they had CAD*, something you wouldn't expect to find in this type of tailor. Neapolitan tailors typically don't have this system, as drawing patterns directly onto the fabric with chalk is considered the true Neapolitan tailoring method. So why does Silica deliberately use patterns created with CAD?

"The answer is simple: we always need to meet our customers' requests accurately and perfectly," Silica said.

*Abbreviation for "Computer-Aided Design." Design software that allows pattern making, which was traditionally done manually, to be done on a computer.

In the process of tailoring a suit—from cutting and interlining to sewing—slight variations in dimensions inevitably occur. The existence of the CAD-generated patterns and the extra step of pressing, as shown above, are what compensate for these slight variations that arise in each stage of the process.

While actually being in the workshop, I saw them repeatedly pressing the fabric with an iron. I also saw them checking to make sure there were no misalignments according to the pattern. Some craftsmen were even pressing the fabric all day long. It was at that moment that I understood the main reason for introducing CAD.

Silica says, "I wonder why everyone doesn't use something so wonderful."

The commitment to perfection began even with the simplest, two-dimensional work.

I was also surprised by the meticulous and conscientious handiwork, which at first glance could easily be mistaken for machine stitching.

Silica herself laughs and says she's "more meticulous than anyone else," but anyone can see that personality from the neatly arranged fabrics and threads throughout her workshop.

He wants to take his time, work carefully, and complete everything under his own supervision. He regularly checks and corrects products at key points. This is why he makes all of his trousers in his own workshop, a process that is said to be often outsourced in Naples.

His pursuit of perfection led to the creation of unique specifications. For example, he eliminated the seam at the center back, a result of trial and error in achieving perfect pattern matching. Choosing the thinnest possible interlining to prioritize comfort is also part of his style. Even within the highly individualistic Neapolitan tailoring, his unique sense of style shines through.

His son, Fabio (pictured right), has mastered CAD technology and created precise patterns for customers. Alfonso (pictured left) then accurately cuts the fabric from these patterns, precisely inserts the interlining, and finally sews the garments in one place.

Alfonso Silca, which made its debut at Isetan Men's this spring, will be hosting a special order event with Silca himself for two days only, on March 16th (Sat) and 17th (Sun). The ready-made suits on display at this event have been updated with new patterns, slightly more room in the back width, and as little interlining as possible to improve comfort. The fact that these suits, made with Hardyminis' Fresco fabric, offer such exceptional comfort is a testament to this tailoring.

Event Information

Alfonso Silica Order Event

□March 16th (Sat) and 17th (Sun)
□ Isetan Shinjuku Store, Men's Building 5th Floor = Men's Tailored Clothing

Order Details ■Price: Coats from ¥378,000, Suits from ¥378,000, Jackets from ¥324,000, Pants from ¥75,600, Vests from ¥75,600 ■Delivery: Approximately 6 months later

*All prices include tax.

Text: ISETAN MEN'S net

inquiry
Isetan Shinjuku Store, Men's Building 5th Floor = Men's Tailored Clothing
03-3352-1111 (main representative)