Otsuka Shoe Co., Ltd., Japan's oldest and most renowned shoe factory, completed the construction of a new factory in December 2017 in an area not far from Ikegami Honmonji Temple. Our guide was factory manager Kiichi Mamiya. Mamiya, who was appointed factory manager at the young age of 46, which is quite young in this industry, joined Otsuka Shoe Co., Ltd. as a new graduate and built his career in the technical research laboratory and production management department, truly a self-made man.


The factory in Hiyoshi, Yokohama, was the heart of Otsuka Shoe Co.'s production base. Its closure felt like the end of an era in the shoe industry, and it left me with a somber feeling.

The factory was completed in 1961 on a 58,000 square meter plot of land in Hiyoshi that had been acquired for the Mamiya Navy's military boot factory. This marked the beginning of the development of original brands such as "Three Wise" and "Bon Step," and at its peak, it employed 150 craftsmen and produced 200,000 pairs of boots annually. It was truly the era of mass production.

Kiichi Mamiya, factory manager of Otsuka Shoe Factory

As the 21st century dawned , the men's shoe industry underwent a dramatic transformation. A boom in so-called luxury shoes arrived. To meet these new needs, Otsuka Shoe Co. returned to its roots, which began with bespoke shoes, and launched "OTSUKA M-5" in 2002. This brand combines bespoke and ready-made styles, taking its name from the company's founding in 1872 (Meiji 5). Following its success, in 2014, they launched the ready-made prestige line "OTSUKA +" and in 2017, they debuted "OTSUKA + M-5," a ready-made and pattern-order line that combines the best features of both brands. The Tokyo factory was built specifically to support these brands.



—If you consider this the dawn of a new era, there's no need to be so pessimistic. And fitting for a new era, the craftsmen working here are also young.

Mamiya: This floor (2nd floor) is our ready-made products floor. We have a total of 27 craftsmen, and their average age is in their mid-30s.

—The Northampton factory I interviewed the other day said they've finally managed to lower their production age from 60 to the mid-50s. Otsuka Shoe Company's freshness really stands out.

The relocation of the Mamiya factory coincided with a change of leadership. However, we can't just be happy about it. In the world of craftsmanship, experience is everything. To ensure that quality doesn't decline, we regularly invite retired craftsmen to come and provide guidance.


--What has changed since the relocation?

As a result of Mamiya's shift towards small-batch, high-variety production, the number of pairs produced has fallen to one-fifth of its peak. From an efficiency standpoint, that spacious floor was too much to handle. This has been improved. To put it bluntly, it's not just small batches, it's almost like making one pair at a time. For example, just changing the design of the sole attachment requires changing the cutter blade as well. In terms of feel, it's not much different from bespoke. Since we're running it with a small number of people, I think one of the strengths of the new factory is that a system of multi-skilled workers who are involved in one or two processes before and after the main process is emerging. Manufacturing that isn't an assembly line will also help change the mindset of the people on the factory floor.

—It seems that Otsuka's meticulous craftsmanship has become even more refined.

Mamiya: I believe our company's strength lies in our unwavering dedication. We meticulously drive in each decorative rivet, nail by nail, according to the specifications, and the time-consuming Yahazu finish is becoming a signature of our brand, all thanks to this approach. We intend to further refine this aspect of our work.


--Could you tell us about the newly introduced leather ribbing? We hear that many customers are surprised, saying it feels just like hand-sewn shoes the moment they put them on.

The Mamiya rib is an essential part of Goodyear welted sole construction. As you may know, it is made of a fabric with a stiffening core. This interferes with the flex of the shoe, making it difficult to break in. The rib we developed is made of leather, as its name suggests. A single flat piece of leather is sewn to the insole, allowing it to flexibly adapt to the movement of the foot.

—Those are rare specifications, even when looking at the world.

We are confident in the Mamiya specifications, but it is unavoidable that it increases the amount of work involved. Due to its structure, it is necessary to raise the rib during the blind stitching process. Doing this by hand would require a tremendous amount of effort, so we have customized and use a machine called a Camborian, which is used for horizontal lasting in cement construction. It started with <Otsuka Plus> and is now also used in <Otsuka Plus M-Five>, which is exclusive to Isetan Men's.

Shoes: 129,600 yen

──How has the market reacted to this series of brands?

Mamiya: Thanks to everyone's support, things are progressing smoothly. The annual model released once a year by <Otsuka Plus M-Five> sold out in 2017, and this year is off to a great start as well. The 2018 version is a model that brings together the best of our technology, including skin stitching and seamless heels. I think it's the perfect shoe to showcase the capabilities of our new factory.



--Could you tell us the current production volume?

Mamiya produces 50 pairs of shoes per day using the Goodyear welt construction method. We also make some shoes using the cement construction method, but eventually we want to focus solely on Goodyear welt construction. The boxes are ready, so our immediate goal is to improve the production site and double our production to 100 pairs per day.


Legendary craftsmanship passed down through generations

---

—The first floor is the bespoke floor, right?

From hand-cutting to attaching the soles, everything is finished here at Mamiya . We have a team of five: one person for making wooden lasts, one for cutting, one for sewing, and two for attaching the soles. We have some veterans working here, so the average age is a little over 50. Our wooden last craftsman is still in his 20s, so he is being mentored by a craftsman who came up through our company. He is someone who was trained by a wooden last craftsman who represented the Showa era.

—The craftsmen who make the shoe uppers exude an aura of being seasoned veterans (laughs).

Having graduated from Mamiya Junior High School and entered this world, it's been about 53 years now. Tsuchida Isamu is an absolute veteran.
Tsuchida wants to retire already (laughs). Right now, he's in the process of training his successor.


—What do you think are the appealing aspects of Otsuka Shoe Manufacturing's shoe uppers?

Tsuchida : At our shoe workshop, the number of stitches per 3cm is strictly determined by the thread count. For example, with 30-count thread, which is common in women's shoes, it's 17 stitches per 3cm; with 20-count thread, it's 14-15 stitches; and with 8-count thread, it's 10 stitches. In the past, quantity was paramount. That's natural since craftsmen were paid on a piece-rate basis. Speed is important, of course, but now I value sewing as if I were buying the shoes myself.

--I hear that Takashi Ishiwata, who attaches the soles, is a favorite disciple of the renowned Eiji Sakai. Speaking of Sakai, he's a representative craftsman of Otsuka Shoe Co., and has even been selected as an MFU Meister (certified as a technical heritage).

If Mamiya has any questions , he'll ask Ishiwata; Ishiwata is practically our company's walking encyclopedia.
I started when I was 15 and I'm 53 now. I learned everything from Sakai, who makes men's shoes, and Ichinose (Hiroyuki) of Metouya (women's shoes). Otsuka Bespoke is known for its elegant atmosphere, and I think that's because it incorporates Metouya's techniques and sensibilities in key areas such as the heel curl, the shape of the edge, and the thinning process.



The DNA of Otsuka Shoe Company has been passed down for 150 years. It seems that the seeds of that DNA are about to blossom into something new.

Photo: Shimpei Suzuki
Text: Kei Takegawa

*All prices include tax.

inquiry
Isetan Shinjuku Store, Men's Building , B1F = Men's Shoes
03-3352-1111 (main representative)
For inquiries via email, please click here.