[Episode 10] MAISON de HIROAN

Hiroshi Hasegawa , Chairman of the Leatherworking Company Hiroan
Hiroshi Hasegawa: After graduating from high school, he joined Hasegawa Seisakusho, a leather goods manufacturer that was his family business. In 2000, he became independent as Hiroan, taking over as the third generation in the direct lineage. In the same year, he launched his own brand to showcase the skills he had cultivated up to that point.
Maison de Hiroan's mini bi-fold wallet and long wallet feature beautifully finished edges. They achieve a slim profile by employing a technique called "flat bonding." The long wallet uses high-quality lizard leather, which develops a richer patina with use. Mini bi-fold wallet: 24,840 yen , Long wallet with coin purse 46,440 yen
We uphold the traditions passed down from my grandfather's generation while embracing innovation.
Maison de Hiroan's roots lie in a bag shop founded in 1906 (Meiji 39) by Hiroshi Hasegawa's grandfather. For over a century since then, they have specialized in producing leather goods for men. Although his father, the previous owner, told him he didn't need to become a craftsman, Hasegawa, who had loved making things since childhood, chose the path of a craftsman without hesitation after graduating from high school.
Hasegawa acquired his skills almost entirely through self-study. He has dedicated himself to honing his techniques without being taught by anyone. He doesn't resort to gimmicks, but instead focuses on orthodox methods while thoroughly emphasizing texture. The driving force behind Hasegawa's approach is a pure desire to "create something good."

"Kawatsutsumi Hiroan," a leather goods workshop in Kuramae, Tokyo, is the birthplace of Maison de Hiroan. Currently, eight people work there, and the workshop actively welcomes young people who aspire to become craftsmen.
For example, consider the "polishing" of the edges (the cut surfaces of the leather). While most leather goods are finished by applying paint to the edges, Maison de Hiroan adheres to the traditional method of dyeing the edges and then repeatedly polishing them with a cloth wrapped around the fingertips. As a result, the edges become rounded and have a beautiful sheen, but this method requires a great deal of effort, making it a rare processing method in today's world where efficiency in the manufacturing process is prioritized.

Maison de Hiroan excels at polishing the edges of leather. By applying moisture and heat to the cut surface of the leather, the collagen components within the leather solidify, creating a transparent shine. Another characteristic is that it results in a highly durable finish that is resistant to peeling and other issues.
On the other hand, they also possess unique techniques that even top European fashion houses covet. One such technique is "flat bonding," where two pieces of leather are joined together. Because the lining doesn't sag even when folded, it might be mistaken for a single piece of leather. However, the leather, with its different fiber directions, pulls against each other, giving it properties similar to a shape-memory material, resulting in surprising durability despite its extreme thinness. To develop this technique, Mr. Hasegawa went through repeated trial and error, spending more than 15 years before achieving a satisfactory result.

"Full-length bonding" involves bonding extremely thin leather stripped to 0.5 mm. This process requires advanced skills, and only three people in the workshop are capable of performing it. Maison de Hiroan applies this "full-length bonding" process to almost all of its products, either entirely or to the necessary parts.
In fact, Mr. Hasegawa is the youngest of three brothers, and his older brother has taken over the family business. Initially, they worked together, but from the late 1980s onwards, inexpensive Chinese products swept the market. In order to adapt to the changing times, they decided to move their production base from Japan to overseas, which prompted Mr. Hasegawa to become independent and launch his own brand. The company name, "革包司," means wallet maker. By deliberately not using a foreign word and incorporating his Japanese identity, Mr. Hasegawa's commitment to competing with technology and aesthetics that are on par with those of Europe and America is evident.
I use a homemade tool called a "nen-toge" (nen-trowel), which is used to create a frame around the edge of the wood, to create the nen-biki (nen-creased edge).
"The ability to create tools is the mark of a truly excellent craftsman," said his grandfather, the company's founder. Following this teaching, he provides all the tools necessary to enhance the quality of his work himself. He doesn't use ready-made materials; custom-made materials are the norm. This increases both the time and cost involved, but he refuses to compromise in order to create a high-quality product. "A men's wallet is a comprehensive art form"—this pride underpins Mr. Hasegawa's unwavering commitment to craftsmanship.
*All prices include tax.
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