While there are many luxury shoe brands, J.M. Weston remains unrivaled as a shoe that embodies French elegance. The reason it is loved across generations lies in its rare balance of traditional craftsmanship and innovation.

The tannery in Saint-Léonard-de-Noblat, located on the banks of a river a few kilometers from Limoges. The holes visible in the foreground are where the leather is embedded and left to rest.

The so-called "Golf" model is one of the brand's most popular. It features a marbled paper pattern on the quilting and lining. This shoe, known for its robust and practical design, seamlessly blends contemporary style with a sophisticated sensibility.

Shoes: 156,600 yen

The culmination of skilled craftsmanship results in beautiful and robust footwear.

Although its name might lead many to believe it's a British brand, J.M. Weston is actually a French brand founded in 1891. Its history began when its founder, Edouard Blanchard, established a shoe factory in the Limoges region, which had advanced leather tanning and processing techniques. Initially, traditional shoemaking was practiced, but Blanchard's son, Eugène, traveled to America and learned the cutting-edge Goodyear welt construction method. Furthermore, Eugène's encounter with Jean Viard, a prominent figure in Parisian high society, led to the establishment of the current style, which combines quality and beauty.

The most iconic part of the brand is undoubtedly the sole. While the company's own tannery can handle everything from leather tanning to finishing, this is the only tannery in France that can perform all these processes in one go for sole leather. They select only the highest quality cowhide and use only plant-based materials, such as French chestnut wood, for tanning. Starting with removing the hair from the hide, the leather is soaked in tanks of varying concentrations for 10 weeks, and then buried in the ground for 8 to 12 months to mature. This process, which takes approximately two years, creates unparalleled strength and durability.

The tannery uses vegetable tanning. The hides are gradually moved from tanks with low concentration to tanks with higher concentration, soaking them in the tanning solution for a total of 10 weeks. This process is said to increase the durability of the leather. The tannery itself existed even before J.M. Weston acquired it, and its history spans over 200 years!

Of course, the craftsmanship isn't limited to just the sole construction. At the J.M. Weston factory, many of the more than 150 processes are still done by hand. Jean-Jacques Sard, who is in charge of cutting the leather, is a veteran with 40 years of experience. "For example, with materials like python, you have to consider how to match similar patterns while also choosing the placement and cutting to avoid wasting any of the precious leather. Creating that overall harmony is extremely difficult," he says.

Jean-Jacques Sard cutting leather. His skill in quickly, accurately, and beautifully cutting leather according to the pattern is a testament to his expertise as a craftsman.

Many of the machines used in between manual work are also ones that have been in use for a long time. It's not uncommon to find some that are over 100 years old. "The manufacturing methods haven't changed much since the old days, so the machines are still going strong," the workers proudly declare. In addition to the products on the production line, the factory also has many shoes that have been sent in for repair, which clearly shows that the brand is loved for a long time.

(Top left) The Norwegian welt construction method, where the upper is sewn to the insole by hand. Using thread made from hemp rope hardened with wax, this is an extremely painstaking process where each stitch is checked as it goes along. (Right) The upper is pinned to fit the insole. Each of these manual processes takes at least three years to master. (Bottom left) Finally, hot wax is applied to the stitched area of the sole to seal it, and then it is smoothed out by machine to complete the shoe.

And this season, with Olivier Saillard as artistic director, the brand has unveiled its first collection, "Collection Papier." The innovative designs, inspired by craft paper and old paper documents, are a fitting omen of the bold transformation that will define the new J.M. Weston.

Olivier Saillard is the artistic director of J.M. Weston. He is a world-renowned curator who has also served as the director of the Palais Galliera, the Paris Fashion Museum. He assumed the position of artistic director of the brand in January 2018.

*All prices include tax.

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