Ulturale, which started as a Neapolitan tailor making neckties in the 1980s, now offers custom-made neckties in Japan.

Custom-made ties are a way to express a desire for personalization.

While they have held tie-making events a few times a year at trunk shows inviting designers from overseas, this is the first time it will be a permanent feature. Unlike clothing, ties seem to have fewer size and fitting concerns, so what kind of needs lie hidden in the world of bespoke ties?

Please tell us why you chose the Osumi Ulturare.
Sato: Considering his past achievements and reputation, brands like Drake's and Marinella would be appropriate choices, but this time I focused on the wide range of customization options available. There are three types of tri-fold bags alone: with cupro lining, with the same fabric lining, and no lining. There are also two types of seven-fold bags called "settepieghe": with the same fabric lining and no lining. In addition, there are ten-fold and twelve-fold bags, both of which are unlined.
If you use a lining for a paper folded into 10 or more sheets, it would probably be too heavy. It would also be difficult to crease.
Sato: That's right. We also have a model that uses a three-fold lining made of the same fabric, and when viewed from the back, the folds create a unique curved shape. This model comes with a button on the back of the narrow end and a coral charm on the back of the wide end, so you can choose from a total of nine variations.

You can choose everything from the small patterned fabric to the color of the thread for the initial embroidery, creating a truly unique piece.

Can I choose the type of button or charm from Osumi ?
Sato Charms offers only the Corno (horn) motif for curved models due to the size of the holes, but for seven-fold to twelve-fold designs, the charms are attached to the base of the fabric folds, and in addition to the Corno, other motifs such as hearts are also available. Buttons include clovers, ladybugs, and horseshoes. The designs are primarily based on Italian lucky motifs. You can also have buttons engraved with a single letter, such as an initial.
What about the length of the sword and the width of the blade?
While ready-made ties are typically 145-146cm long, taking into account the average height of Japanese people, custom orders allow you to choose from 144-155cm. The width of the widest part of the tie is currently mainly 8cm, but you can choose from 7-10cm. Those who are sensitive to trends tend to choose 8.5 or 9cm, following the trend of returning to classic styles.
Osumi: In my case, I don't want my tie to be too flashy, so a standard width for the blade is fine. From my experience, I think ties should be a little thick and have some stiffness, but also be soft. With Ulturale's custom orders, the triple-folded tie with a matching fabric lining seems to have just the right amount of volume. By the way, how many material variations are there?
Sato: We always have over 100 different types of fabrics available, including general silk, and depending on the season, wool, linen, etc., so I think we have plenty of variety to offer seasonal options.

The basic principle of custom-made items is to tailor a standard item to your own preferences.

Being able to choose even the decorative charms and buttons is quite unusual for a custom-made necktie.

Osumi : It's hard to choose when there are so many options.
Sato : That's true, although they are made to order, the reason why many people choose standard items might be for that reason.
It's best to start with something more traditional when ordering a custom -made piece from Osumi. For your first order, you tend to get too emotionally invested and want this and that. This can turn it into a one-sided request rather than a bespoke experience, and sometimes the result can be quite disappointing.
Speaking from personal experience, when I order shirts, I always choose white. White can be a trend, but it's also a timeless classic that will never go out of style. You can wear it forever.
Osumi: In addition to that, I also order blue. Blue changes in shade depending on the mood of the times, so I like being able to enjoy that change. It's something that transcends trends, and yet it is a trend at the same time. I like that back-and-forth feeling. Similarly, if I were to have a tie custom-made, it would probably be navy.
Sato Navy offers over 10 different shades of navy blue. I also recommend ordering a formal silver tie from them.

Even within the tri-fold type alone, you can choose from three options: cupro lining, self-fabric lining, and no lining (each ¥24,840). Additionally, the so-called "settepieghe" type, which is folded seven times, is available in two variations: self-fabric lining and no lining (each ¥27,000). Ten-fold and twelve-fold versions are also available (each ¥29,160). *Delivery: Approximately 4 months later

With Osumi 's ready-made products, there aren't many options, are there? In that sense, a polka dot tie might be a good choice. I think it's also a valid style to only wear that kind of tie, like Churchill. If you find someone to emulate and thoroughly imitate them, your own style will surely emerge from that imitation. It may seem obvious, but I think that's an effective way to be fashionable. Are there any other specifications that are unique to custom orders?
We offer an option for embroidering the initials " Sato." You can choose the thread color and the placement of the embroidery from the bottom of the wide end, below the dimple, or at the tip of the narrow end.
Choosing a tie with the same color as the initials of the Osumi is a stylish choice, isn't it? Besides, being understated or subtle is fundamental to elegance.
Sato, I agree. I also use tone-on-tone as my basic technique.
Osumi: It might be an exaggeration to say that it builds confidence, but I think that "something" that's different from the ordinary creates a sense of exhilaration.
Sato: In today's world, we're surrounded by an abundance of goods, and you can buy anything on the internet. I think it's no longer acceptable to have the attitude of "We've gathered these amazing things from all over the world, so aren't we great?" From now on, I believe that specializing in customization is one of the reasons for the existence of physical stores.

*All prices include tax.

inquiry
Isetan Shinjuku Store, Men's Building 1st Floor = Dress Shirts & Ties
03-3352-1111 (main representative)