Even as global warming causes temperatures to rise, gloves remain an essential part of a gentleman's attire. Fitted perfectly to the wearer's hands, they complement not only hats but also walking sticks and umbrellas. When you find yourself regretting forgetting your gloves at home more than forgetting your smartphone, you've truly joined the ranks of gentlemen.

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Gloves are a must-have for gentlemen.

Beau Brummell, the progenitor of the dandy, boasted that "a perfect gentleman changes his gloves six times a day." However, in the early 19th century, gentlemen's manners forbade showing bare hands in front of women. While we Japanese consider it polite to remove our gloves and shake hands barehanded, back then, it was considered proper etiquette to keep gloves on. It's likely that gentlemen, not just Brummell, used various types of gloves depending on the time, place, and occasion.

►For town and country│Casual
Peccary leather with external stitching is durable and develops a unique patina with use, making it a must-have item for gentlemen. It looks great tucked into the breast pocket of a country jacket or coat.

Merola Gloves, ¥38,880 each ■ Isetan Shinjuku Store, Men's Building 1F = Seasonal Goods & Accessories

For example, daytime formal wear (morning coat) is typically gray, such as buckskin. For evening formal wear (swallowtail coat), white, such as kidskin, is common. For business attire (frock coat), black calfskin or sheepskin, or black, gray, or brown suede (known as mocha), are popular. For country or town wear (tweed jackets or cavalry twill coats), natural tan, dark brown, or gray peccary is a good choice. Additionally, lambskin with a fleece lining is often used for extra warmth.

Furthermore, it's considered a basic technique to match the color of your gloves to your hat and shoes. For example, brown or tan gloves go well with brown hats and shoes, while gray gloves go well with black hats and shoes.

Reflecting complex tastes

The first time I had a pair of gloves custom-made was in Akabane, Kita Ward, Tokyo, a place familiar from manga. This area has long been home to many craftsmen who worked as subcontractors for long-established clothing stores in Ginza. I was introduced to one of these glove craftsmen by a stylish shop owner I knew. The craftsman first measured the circumference of the back of my hand. Next, he measured the length from the tip of my middle finger to around my wrist, then placed my hand on a white piece of paper on the back of a flyer and traced the outer edge with a pencil to complete the measuring process.

I requested peccary leather gloves with external stitching on the fingers, and the craftsman readily accepted, saying, "We only have gray peccary in stock. I usually make women's gloves that cover the elbows out of kidskin with internal stitching, so external stitching sounds interesting."

The gloves, completed a few weeks later, weren't quite as good as Brummell's, where the thumb and other fingers were sewn by different craftsmen, but they fit my hands so well that I could turn the pages of a paperback book while wearing them, and they were comfortable. Moreover, since peccary leather can be washed when it gets dirty, I was able to use them for about 20 years afterward.

As someone who regularly wears gloves, I've always found it puzzling that despite the fact that many Japanese people who commute on crowded trains are very conscious of their own body odor and hair smell, they surprisingly touch public handrails, doorknobs, and elevator buttons with their bare hands.

I admire athletes with a craftsman-like spirit who are particular about the subtle feel of their grip with their bare hands, such as Triple Crown winner Ochiai and the queen of women's golf, Annika Sörenstam. However, when exploring cities, which involve various risks, I still believe that high-quality, comfortable gloves are indispensable.
Text by Shuhei Toyama ● Born in Tokyo in 1951. His motto is "There is no benefit in having many opinions without thought." Recently, he has been writing fashion criticism on the themes of fado and innovators, modernism and classwear, and technology and sustainability. His books include "The Pride of the Suit" and "Effortless Style."

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