2017.11.12 update

Les Zac CEO Masayuki Toyama x Buyer Ryo Inami

Having an exotic leather bag custom-made is a perfect remedy for satisfying an emotional need.


Left: Masayuki Toyama, CEO of Les Zacs. After graduating from university, he played an active role as a founding member when a fashion brand he had interacted with during his time studying abroad launched in Japan. He has been involved in the family business for over 20 years.


Right: Ryo Inami, Men's Bag Buyer
Joined Isetan in 2007. After working as an assistant buyer for international luxury goods and men's handbags, became a buyer in 2015.


What is the appeal of ordering an exotic leather bag?


It has already been three years since Mitsukoshi Isetan began carrying Les Sac bags. Founded in 1980 in Nihonbashi, Tokyo, Les Sac is a bag brand specializing in exotic leathers, launched in 2004, leveraging the sensibilities and techniques cultivated through OEM manufacturing. We spoke with CEO Toyama, a key figure in the brand, about its underlying strength and the appeal of bespoke craftsmanship.

The presence exuded by Inami exotic leather is something that simply cannot be achieved with cowhide. We could imagine there would be a potential demand, but the response exceeded our expectations. Many of our customers are men who want good quality products without being fixated on brands. They are discerning individuals who have experienced masterpieces from both Japan and abroad.
The trunk show held at the same time as the unveiling of Toyama really boosted our motivation.
The Inami Trunk Show is an essential event even for the bag department. While they host trunk shows for various brands such as Stefano Mano and Daniel & Bob, exotic leathers have remained largely untouched. The true value of Les Sacs is evident in their full bespoke offerings. In bespoke orders, the skill to carefully understand the customer's requests is crucial. In that respect, no other brand offered the same level of reassurance as Les Sacs. I was truly impressed by their hospitable process, which is typical of a Japanese brand.
For Toyama 's full custom orders, we start by sketching a rough draft on the spot to confirm the direction. Next, we create a sketch based on the rough draft, and once you've approved it and there are no problems, we create a mock-up (model) using a material called slicer. Because it has a texture similar to leather, you can visualize the finished product quite accurately. We don't start production until you are completely satisfied with every step of the process, so there is no set delivery date. This process has been cultivated over 20 years of experience.


A fully custom-made item is produced through a three-stage process: rough sketch, preliminary sketch, and mock-up.

Inami , I'd like to ask you again: Unlike suits and shoes, there's virtually no need for custom-made bags to resolve fitting or size issues. Moreover, there are many masterpieces among bags, and the majority of customers find value in those. So, how do you analyze the current situation where Les Sacs are still highly regarded?
Toyama: I think it all boils down to the mental satisfaction it provides from having a one-of-a-kind bag that's uniquely yours. It's truly a world of stylish and eccentric luxury goods, and if you take that eccentricity to its extreme, you'll end up with exotic leather.
Inami (nodding emphatically): I completely agree. One of the charms of Les Sacs lies in their balance of modernity. Compared to cowhide, exotic leathers are much smaller in quantity and have unique patterns, which imposes constraints on design work, making it quite challenging to create new designs with them. But Les Sacs managed to bring these designs to life with ease.
Toyama : I visit Europe twice a year, so I think I'm in an environment where my sensibilities are naturally honed. My purpose for traveling is to inspect and conduct business at international trade fairs such as MIPEL for bags and Pitti Immagine Uomo for menswear, as well as sales for agency work. Looking back, I've loved fashion ever since I can remember. I even had the opportunity to help a Canadian brand launch in Japan.
Inami has always kept an eye on information from overseas and diligently pursued the process of translating that into design, which is why he is able to accurately grasp the image that customers desire. When considering the appeal of the bespoke items that Les Zacs has created, this high level of ability to understand and interpret the customer's wishes is indispensable.

Why choose a natural gloss finish over a mirror-finish crocodile leather?



"This job requires skilled techniques, so like many other jobs, the aging workforce is a major concern," says Mr. Toyama.


Tote bag: 972,000 yen; Clutch bag: 291,600 yen


Toyama, thank you for your encouraging comment.
The crocodile finish, known as Inamiji -tsuya, further underscores Les Sac's modernity. Crocodile leather is known for its shimmering scales, often referred to as the "jewel of leather." However, Les Sac's finish, as its name suggests (meaning "bringing out the natural luster"), is remarkably soft. Combined with the sophisticated design, it blends seamlessly into contemporary styling. Moreover, it comes in 11 different colors. Les Sac is also known for its expertise in python leather, which also comes in 11 colors. As it is an expensive material, it tends to be limited to safe, neutral colors. The wide range of colors is one of Les Sac's charms.
Toyama : Our company was founded by my father, who built his career at a bag company. Initially, we imported bags, mainly made from exotic leathers. When I joined the family business, I started manufacturing to develop it as another pillar of our business, and as part of that, we developed crocodile leather with a natural gloss finish. When you keep the finishing touches to a minimum, there's no way to hide any imperfections, so the demands on the raw hides naturally become higher. Les Sacs sources raw hides from some of the world's leading companies and tans them in Japan. The natural gloss, the wide range of colors, and the extremely supple texture are all thanks to the uncompromising craftsmanship we achieve in Japan.

*All prices include tax.

inquiry
Isetan Shinjuku Store, Men's Building , B1F = Men's Bags
03-3352-1111 (main representative)