[Series | My Favorite Items] Vol.3 Yosuke Ota | EDWARD GREEN in its 13th Year
Yosuke Ota, sales manager in charge of planning and managing events such as Isetan Shinjuku's flagship sale, "Men's Fashion Fair," is one such person. But what makes him a little unusual is that he's a "leather" fetishist who enjoys the aging process. On the table for the interview were three pairs of EDWARD GREEN shoes and leather items such as a Whitehouse Cox business card holder, which he says he bought "in my first year at the company when I didn't even have business cards yet (laughs)."
A comment a shoemaker made to me when I was in charge of men's shoes.
I'm sure there are many readers of Isetan Men's Net who think, "They're expensive, so I only wear them a few times a year, on special occasions." It seems that Ota, who appears in this article, also had that kind of thinking...
In my third year at the company, when I was in charge of men's shoes, I thought, "Anyone who hasn't had bespoke shoes made shouldn't talk about bespoke shoes!" So I had a pair of wholecut round-toe shoes made by a shoemaker in Florence. After a fitting, the hand-sewn shoes were soft from the first wear, flexible, and very comfortable. But they were expensive, so I couldn't wear them very often.
The next time the craftsman came to Japan, I wore the shoes and told him, "This is only the second time I've worn them," and he looked incredibly disappointed. He said, "If you wear them more, they'll sound even better..." In fact, he was wearing shoes that were very well-worn, a perfect example of "how you should wear them." Seeing that changed my perspective.
From a youth filled with denim, vintage clothes, and sneakers, to the awakening of adulthood.
I've always been the type to get obsessed with things. I got hooked on computer games during the Mini 4WD boom, and during my adolescence, when idols were at their peak, I was engrossed in reading fashion magazines like "BOON."In high school, I was in the kendo club, and in my first year, I went to Kyoto to cheer on the team at the Inter-High School Championships. I bought a vintage 1960s Champion sweatshirt for 20,000 yen at a vintage clothing store in Shinkyogoku, and I also found and bought a pair of Nike Air Force 1s in the school colors (laughs).
Furthermore, after entering university in Tokyo, I saw Barbour featured in 'BOON' magazine and thought it was cool, so I bought one during my first year. I enjoyed breaking in the oiled fabric in the same way I would wear denim, developing a unique patina over time.
In my second year of university, I discovered the quality of Felisi 's leather bags, and around the same time, I wanted a Whitehouse Cox bifold wallet in a neutral color. I went to the Isetan "Men's Annex" to buy one, but it was sold out. However, the store stylist who assisted me called select shops near Shinjuku that carried Whitehouse Cox to check their stock, and I remember being surprised that they would go to such lengths for me.
After reading magazines like "BOON" and "Begin," I started buying "MEN'S EX," which was during the heyday of classic Italian style. Reading articles by fashion critic Masakatsu Ochiai and others, I thought, "This is an amazing world!" As a university student, my lifestyle and suits were at odds. I thought suits were for businessmen, and I didn't think suits themselves were cool. But when I learned about the world of classic Italian style, I found that the details and other aspects were somehow similar to the intricacies of denim, and I found the way they were worn casually to be cool. I like things that change with age, so I was drawn to the fact that classic Italian suits also develop character over time.
Before joining Isetan, I took a trip to Europe with magazine clippings in hand.
My grandfather and father were art history researchers, and I suppose I inherited that trait, as I enjoyed researching the background of things. Also, based on my life experiences up to that point, I realized that "I can't put my heart and soul into something unless I love it" (laughs), so I joined Isetan in 2004.
I thought it would be great to be in a position where I could share my favorite lifestyle with customers.
Before joining Isetan, I cut out maps of my favorite shops from magazines and traveled around five European countries with them. I visited established department stores like Harrods and Galeries Lafayette, and in Italy, I went to tailor shops in Rome, Milan, and Florence. I even took pictures on Savile Row, completely ignoring the tourist spots (laughs). I also bought the shirts and ties I would wear after joining the company during that trip.
When I was a senior in college, I worked part-time at Isetan and bought two Neapolitan-style (domestically produced) suits that they were selling at the time. I wore them when I was assigned to the men's shoe department on the first basement floor Isetan Shinjuku Store, Men's Building where I was in charge of customer service. I wanted to wear the shoes they were selling, so I bought a pair of Grenson shoes as my first purchase. Of course, I still wear them today.
Then, in the fall after joining the company, I bought my first pair of Edward Green shoes on an installment plan for over 100,000 yen. It was around the time I was becoming quite knowledgeable about shoes (laughs).
EDWARD GREEN 's masterpiece "Dover"
You won't know until you try on shoes that are said to be good.
As you all know, during the classic Italian fashion boom, shoes, like cars and watches, attracted attention as a "collector's item for men," and British shoes like Tricker's became popular. At that time, I thought, "Shoes are an item that I'm just as drawn to as suits." Back then it was sneakers, now it's leather shoes (laughs).
With that in mind, I was assigned to the men's shoe department, and I thought, "I won't know until I try on some shoes that are considered good," so I bought my first pair: Edward Green's "Dover" model, on the 606 last. The color was a yellowish light brown called "Acorn," but through my own aging process, it has now turned this color.
I was so happy to get them that I polished them before wearing them for the first time, but the heels and soles were so stiff (laughs). But once they broke in, they became the most comfortable of the three pairs of Edward Green shoes I own. I still wear them a few times a month. Wearing the shoes that are sold in the store makes my explanations to customers more convincing and also serves as a conversation starter.
I was disappointed when it got scratched, but I see it as a badge of honor from my work.
Then, in my second year at the company, I bought another pair of Edward Green shoes, the "Gladstone" in last 202. They're from the heyday of long-nosed shoes, but with the current trend towards classic styles, I think they'll be getting more use again.
Then, when I was working at the Fuchu store, I bought my third pair: the "Cadogan" on the 888 last. I chose these brown semi-brogues because they're "the ultimate shoes that can be worn with anything," but when I line up all three pairs, they look like newcomers. I plan to break in these three pairs of Edward Green shoes.
Isetan Shinjuku Store, Men's Building we have events and exhibitions set up almost every week, so I was really disappointed when my Dover shoes got scratched up (laughs). But when I see the shoes of the overseas brands that come to Japan for order events, they're not all that shiny, and they're treated as tools for walking. After realizing that, I started to think, "Even if there are scratches, it's fine as long as I take good care of them. They become part of the character, a kind of badge of honor from work," and I stopped worrying so much about wearing expensive shoes.
Wear them often, take care of them in your own way, and that's how they develop character.
I think I enjoy taking care of my shoes, but I'm definitely not following the textbook method (laughs). I just quickly brush off the dirt, apply cream, and polish them. I just take care of them in a very ordinary way.
To be honest, when I bought my Edward Green shoes shortly after joining the company, I was overly knowledgeable, so naturally I hadn't worn them much, I was very careful with them, and I think the shoes looked out of place . But now that I'm 34, I've finally come to think that they suit me better . I'm glad I bought them when I was young. If I bought them now and wore them for 13 years, I'd be 47.
Even if you think it's an expensive investment when you're young, using it carefully for a long time will give it character, make you attached to it, and ultimately make it last longer.
I think it's important to buy and wear "authentic" items. Last year, I bought a pair of craft denim jeans for the first time in a while, intending to age them over time. I plan to break them in so that I can enjoy wearing them no matter how old I get.
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