Driving along National Route 12, home to a monument marking Japan's longest straight road, the Somes Saddle factory suddenly appears amidst the vast sky and landscape. The factory has an attached showroom that also serves as a retail space. The bags that visitors are examining closely are ones that the craftsman, Ryuta Narita of SOMÈS SADDLE, has made himself. "When I told him I made them, he asked for my autograph (laughs)." Since then, customers living in Sapporo have occasionally visited the factory, bringing souvenirs with them. This prestigious Hokkaido brand is supported by a simple yet close-knit community.

Hiroki Toriyama (left) from Somes Saddle's Sales Department and Ryuta Narita (right) from the Production Department.

The name, written as 歌志内, is pronounced "Utashinai." It originates from the Ainu words "Ota-ushi-nai" (meaning "a stream with lots of sand"). Utashinai City, which prospered from the coal industry, had a population exceeding 40,000 at its peak, but due to a series of mine closures, its population is now less than 5,000. It is the least populated city in Japan.


In an effort to develop an industry to replace coal mining, the local people gathered saddlers who had supported the development of Hokkaido, and in 1964 founded Orient Leather, the predecessor of Somes Saddle. Although their business targeting overseas markets got off to a good start, they suffered a major blow from the rapid appreciation of the yen caused by the oil crisis. When they were at their wit's end, it was Masashi Someya who stepped in to rebuild the company. He is the father of Junichi, the current chairman of Somes Saddle, and Noboru, the current president. Masashi played a part in the establishment of Orient Leather and was the chairman of the city council at the time. Although he was completely outside the industry, he shifted the sales channels to the domestic market and simultaneously expanded the business to include all kinds of leather products.


Somes Saddle supplied a complete set of carriage equipment for the Emperor's enthronement ceremony in 1989, and manufactured attaché cases as commemorative gifts for world leaders at the 2008 G8 Summit in Toyako. The factory in a once-dilapidated town has now risen to become an undeniable name in leather goods.

"EX-116" 216,000 yen

The bag that returned home is a designer

Somes Saddle doesn't have a designer. While they do have external staff who handle things like the ladies' seasonal collections, basically, everything is refined through internal discussions and collaboration. The majority of their products are staples, and it's not uncommon to see items that have been around for 5 or even 10 years. The attaché case that Isetan Men's offered to have re-upholstered in bridle leather is well over 20 years old.

The framework of the design is based on techniques and designs honed through the production of equestrian equipment. This includes the double-needle technique, where a needle is attached to each end of a single thread and the leather is sewn simultaneously from both sides; the sturdy metal fittings called stays that support the opening; and the leather patches that cover the corners of the body. Or the edge polishing, which takes well over an hour per bag, using planes, files, two types of dyes, and a matte finish. In short, it's incredibly tough, but craftsman Narita casually says, "Well, that's how you make equestrian equipment, which is a matter of life and death."


Any problems that become apparent through use are addressed as they arise. Taking the aforementioned attaché case as an example, early models often suffered damage from the bellows rubbing against the opening frame. Through trial and error, they arrived at the current size, where the bellows don't touch and items are easy to take out. The interior and locks have also been improved through the same approach. In a sense, Somes Saddle's designers are the bags that have returned to their original design.

The reason there are so many long-selling models is that they don't have a design-oriented mindset; rather, they base their manufacturing on equestrian equipment, and everything is the result of their daily efforts to ensure user comfort.

Left: " PG-221 " ¥432,000 , Right: " EX-116 " ¥ 216,000

The Somes Saddle factory is a factory in name only; it operates more like a workshop, with teams of three working together to create a single bag. There are about 50 craftsmen in total, most of whom are hired locally. The average age is under 40.

"No two pieces of leather, a gift from heaven, are exactly alike. Their condition changes drastically depending on the climate. To understand this, you need the skill to create an entire piece from scratch. Above all, the complex and sophisticated craftsmanship originating from equestrian equipment cannot be achieved through division of labor." (Hiroki Toriyama, Sales Department)


About an hour's journey north from Sapporo on the Hakodate Main Line, as we approach Sunagawa Station, which sees just over 1,000 passengers a day, the number of people carrying Somes saddles increases one by one on the train and on the platform. Both buyers and makers of Somes saddles are part of a single community. We are fortunate to be able to share in the fruits of their labor.

Text: Takegawa Keiji
Photo: Suzuki Shimpei

inquiry
Isetan Shinjuku Store, Men's Building , B1F = Men's Bags
03-3352-1111 (main representative)