[Interview] Ernesto Enrico Mezzadri | The Second Generation of El Clásico
Ernesto is a brand produced by the Parma factory Gianfranco Mezzadri. It was launched in 2012 by Gianfranco's son-in-law, Enrico Mezzadri.
"When I was younger, I worked for an insurance company, but after marrying my wife, I joined my father-in-law Gianfranco's company. I had always loved fashion, so I was happy to be able to do work I loved, but I was a complete novice when it came to manufacturing, so I never imagined that I would start my own brand."
My father-in-law, a former tailor, acquired his skills through a long apprenticeship, but I was never directly taught by him. He didn't seem interested in teaching me either, and he never criticized me about my work. So, in reality, I learned naturally by watching him.
I believe I've learned countless things in terms of my mental fortitude, such as my passion for work, how to approach it, and always being honest with customers."
I remember when I interviewed Gianfranco some time ago, he said, "When Enrico started his own brand, I began to think about handing over the company to him one day." His father-in-law's eyes were calm as he spoke of his trust in him, and it was clear that he had deep confidence in his son-in-law. And now, sitting quietly beside the interview table, Gianfranco has the same look in his eyes as he did then. He and his father-in-law had come to Japan for the order event.
"Ernesto started with two themes: check patterns that no one had ever seen before and stripes that no one had ever worn before."
Director Enrico Mezzadri speaks mischievously, while his father-in-law, Gianfranco Bomezzadri, listens quietly beside him. He clearly has complete confidence in Mezzadri's work.
"We are very particular about our materials. We want to use unusual materials that other brands don't use, but we can't use anything that isn't elegant or doesn't fit the brand image. For example, with check patterns, we base them on Scottish tartan checks, but we select ones with interesting combinations of background color and checks and then arrange them in an original way. There seem to be many unique stripes in British school stripes. If these are woven in England, the fabric becomes stiff and tightly woven, but by having them woven by an Italian fabric manufacturer, we can create something supple. We also sometimes use slub yarn, and we specially order brushed materials with long piles."
They have combined their unique material selection with the high level of technical expertise cultivated through OEM production to create their own distinctive style. Their theme of "Africa" this season is also innovative for a classic fashion house. At last year's Pitti Immagine Uomo, where they presented their Spring/Summer 2016 collection, they created an original presentation by placing grains on wooden plates and arranging folk figurines within their booth. I've never seen a booth with such a proposal at Pitti before.
"The color palette, inspired by the colors of the African land, forests, sky, and cities, was developed based on meticulous marketing. Instead of portraying the raw, untamed Africa as it is, we replaced it with something more refined, exploring new possibilities for classic styles. It wasn't based on personal travels to Africa or a style proposal, but I think it was the right approach because the unique concept attracted attention from many people."
Reddish-brown oranges, mineral-like greens, and colors reflecting the fertile earth are all present, and the handcrafted folk patterns are also symbolic of Ernesto's collection this season. It is creative and full of humor, but it also celebrates elegance. The navy jacket that Enrico was wearing that day exemplifies this. It has an unusual pattern, but you wouldn't know what it was unless you looked closely. When I asked what it was, he said the motif was jellyfish.
Gianfranco, Enrico's father-in-law, who had been quietly listening during the interview, chuckled for the first time. Enrico, caught up in the moment, also laughed happily. The scene of a warm Italian family gathering came to life in the interview room.
Enrico Mezzadori
Born in Parma in 1964, he married Gianfranco's only daughter in 1985 and joined his father-in-law's company, entering the fashion industry. He worked in sales for a while, but in 2012, he launched Ernesto with his longtime friend Vincenzo Reggiani (owner of the Rimini select shop La Cerba). His wife is the designer for Ernesto's women's line. Last year, he launched another brand, Paidea, where he serves as director.
Text: Ikeda Yasuyuki
Photo: Ozawa Tatsuya
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