The "THE GALLERY by CHALIE VICE," run by the refined Charlie Weiss, has been quietly hosting events to foster interaction between end-users and creators. Today's guest is Hilary Freeman, Managing Director of EDWARD GREEN and a long-time acquaintance of Charlie's.


Host: Thank you for coming today. This is the second time we've held this event with Hillary. The last one was a great success, as it allowed us to hear directly from the creator. Tonight, we'll go a step further and introduce her new works, while also weaving in some informal anecdotes.
Hilary Freeman (hereinafter Hilary): I intend to be completely open today, but Charlie, whom I've known for a long time, still keeps everything a secret, from his age to everything else. And what's more, he's traveling somewhere in the world right now. It's not fair, is it? (laughs)

--Laughter erupts in the venue

Hillary : Okay, first up is the "Galway." You all know it as a hunting boot. We created this new version after a request from our Italian supplier for a more fashionable "Galway." We used the sharp 82 last and finished it with a combination of smooth leather, suede, and grained leather. I showed it to Charlie when he dropped by the factory the other day, and he really liked it.



Speaking of the MC Last 82, I understand that the updated Last has just hit the shelves.
This is the Hillary 915. The toe of the 82 last has been extended by a few millimeters. The silhouette, which emphasizes the sidewall, incorporates the essence of the 890 last that we completed earlier.
Host: Lately, we've been seeing a string of new finales being announced.
Hillary : Yes. I developed the 890 (a square toe with a sharper edge based on the 888 fitting), the 72 with a country last, and the slip-on "Duke."
In 2014, they changed their logo and renovated their Jermyn Street store. It felt like a sleeping lion had awakened.


Hillary, this year marks our 125th anniversary. We've been preparing behind the scenes. But I just want to make this clear: this step is an evolution, not a revolution. The 915 last is a descendant of the 82, and the 82 is based on the 202 (Edward Green's masterpiece last). While cherishing tradition, like Charlie, we've traveled the world, refining what we've learned there and incorporating it into our designs.
The slip-on "Duke" that the host mentioned is one example of that.
There's a photograph of Hillary Clinton or the Duke of Windsor getting off a private jet, and this is an homage to the shoes she was wearing at the time. "Duke" means duke, so it's a reference to the Duke of Windsor.

--The buyer in charge of men's shoes at Isetan was surprised to learn the origin of the name for the first time.

Hilary (smiling charmingly): "The Saint James is another one I'm proud of. The unique side lacing is a design that was once patented, and it's a revival of a sketch that was preserved in the Northampton Shoe Museum. We used the 82 last for this one too, but the crimping (shaping the upper leather) was difficult, so the release was delayed by six months."




I wonder if the host has a lot planned for next year and beyond.
Hillary, let's have Frederick (Brindheim) tell us about that. He's been our sales manager since last year. What do you think?
Frederick (slightly flustered by the sudden question): I went to Chicago, USA, to see cordovan leather. We are currently developing a special type of leather.
Hillary, I wonder if you'd like to see the slip-ons I'm wearing. It's a model we made during John's (Fullstick, the previous owner) time, and it uses wool from Suffolk sheep, a popular breed in the lowlands of England. I'd like to commercialize it next year.


A family business that continues to be preserved.

Please also tell me about the people involved in the hosting. First, this is something everyone is probably wondering about: Who designed the greenery?
This is Hilary Matthew. He's a last maker and a shoemaker I have complete confidence in. By the way, he wears short sleeves even in winter. That might be the biggest secret of the day (laughs).
What about patterns and sewing for the MC ?
It's Hilary Julie. Like Matthew, she was excellent even when she was a student.
It seems the turnover of presenters is going smoothly.
The Hillary Top Drawer (Prestige line) is still Andy's sanctuary, though. He freezes for a second right before he starts working on it. It's really cool.
Who writes the product number and other information in the small window on the MC's lining?
This is Hilary Karen.
The host really shows that they have a close, family-like relationship with everyone. They can rattle off names effortlessly.


The strength of Hillary EDWARD GREEN is that it's a family business. Everyone there is a really nice person. If you have the chance, please come and meet them. It would be very encouraging for them.
Host , everyone, thank you for joining us today. Customers wearing Edward Green shoes, please come over here. Let's take a group photo of our feet at the end.

--Clap--Applause


Text: Takegawa Keiji
Photo: Fujii Taku

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