It was truly a long-awaited two days. Customers continuously streamed to the trunk show of Henry Poole, Savile Row's oldest tailor, which had made a comeback. Despite this, senior cutter Alex Cook, who saw off every single customer and appeared for the interview, showed no signs of fatigue whatsoever and maintained his gentlemanly demeanor throughout.


"Henry Poole's manufacturing philosophy has remained unchanged since its founding in 1806. In the basement sewing room, craftsmen use old, heavy irons to create those distinctive, structured silhouettes."

The shop established in Brunswick Square by James Poole, a kimono merchant, flourished under his son Henry. They tailored suits for almost all of Europe's kings, and their Royal Warrants numbered 40, beginning with Napoleon III. There are countless glorious stories about them. Henry Poole was instrumental in establishing the tuxedo as a dinner jacket, and he was also entrusted with all aspects of court attire.

Alex Cook, who holds the heavy responsibility of senior cutter at the salon led by the seventh-generation owner, Simon Cundey, apparently didn't feel the pressure that would cause serious shoulder pain in an average person.


"When people think of Henry Poole, they often picture suits with armor-like silhouettes. That's certainly the face of our tailoring, but for about 15 years now we've also been making low-construction suits. Lightweight used to mean 12 ounces, but now 8 ounces is the mainstream. To bring out the best in this fabric, we needed to rethink the construction as well. Some of our staff were against it, but we, who travel the world for trunk shows, had heard the voices of the market firsthand. Of course, we're not trying to imitate Naples. We're aiming for a lighter feel while maintaining a silhouette worthy of the Savile Row name."

This flexible thinking culminates in the made-to-measure approach.

"Taking steps towards bespoke tailoring is important. It always requires a level that inspires awe. The factory that Japan provided was impeccable. The shapes and cuts were so superb that they could easily be mistaken for bespoke tailoring. Even the craftsmen in our home country can't afford to be complacent (laughs). I believe that the youthful patterns I designed will cultivate customers who will be led to our flagship store in the near future."

Alex says, "Our Japanese partner spent two years selecting the factory. This fact alone should make it clear that this is a new kind of collaboration that sets itself apart from traditional licensing businesses."

I've been captivated by Henry Poole for 20 years.

Alex originally entered the world of fashion with the ambition of becoming a designer. The woman who doted on young Alex was the owner of what was probably the first select shop in the suburbs of London. Later, he went on to London College of Fashion, but as he was nearing graduation, Alex was invited by an instructor to join them because there was an opening. That instructor was Philip Parker, who was then a senior cutter at Henry Poole and would later rise to the position of vice president.

"Actually, my heart had already been drawn to Savile Row. It all started when I happened to see a chalk-striped black suit there. The beauty of the drape is still etched in my memory. I knew that designers are so busy they barely have time to sleep, and I have to honestly admit that the 9-to-5 working hours were a push in the right direction (laughs). I knocked on the door thinking I might as well study there, and 20 years ago, I was finally able to do so. Contrary to what was initially agreed upon, I now work from 7 a.m. to 6 p.m. (laughs), but I am now in a position to consider the future of tailors that people all over the world admire. My life is very fulfilling."

Text: Takegawa Keiji
Photo: Fujii Taku

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