Sartoria Ypsilon / Sartoria Ypsilon Yukihiko Funabashi | A fortunate relationship between an exceptional tailor and his patron
The Nihonbashi Club, a members-only social club, is an indispensable place when looking back on that city. In this dignified space where the history of the area is subtly conveyed, Yukihiko Funabashi and Kazuhide Yonehama, one of Japan's leading business executives, engaged in a lighthearted conversation. The two, who have known each other for 30 years, share a fortunate relationship reminiscent of that of an artist and his patron in the past.

From left to right: Oga and Uchino Kuniaki, Sartoria Ypsilon owner Funabashi Yukihiko, and Ringer Hut Chairman and CEO Yonehama Kazuhide
My wife also acknowledged the beauty and lightness of the lines.
Could you tell us how you two, Uchino , started dating?
I had a business trip that took me from north to south across Italy. It took two weeks to visit all the places, from Milan in the north to Sicily in the south. I heard there was a man who had gone to Italy alone and was working hard there, so I went to visit him. That was in 1979, so it was already more than 30 years ago.
This was back when I was still sewing in a small apartment room in Funabashi . Such fond memories.
I ordered two Yonehama suits . I remember it took quite a long time for them to be made.
Funabashi is truly ashamed.
Yonehama: Since then, I've had Mr. Funabashi make dozens of garments for me. Not just suits, but also overcoats, tuxedos, and even leather jackets. I do occasionally stray to other brands (laughs), but in the end, I always end up wearing things tailored by Mr. Funabashi.
So, what exactly was so good about Uchino ?
Yonehama: First of all, the lines are beautiful. I sometimes get tailoring vouchers and have my clothes made elsewhere, but my wife notices right away. She asks, "Where did you get that? It's not from Funabashi, is it?"
Mrs. Uchino has quite the discerning eye.
Yonehama (nodding charmingly): And it's incredibly light. I once had one custom-made in my hometown of Nagasaki, but it was so stiff.
Funabashi's gentle and careful hand-sewing process doesn't damage the fabric or internal components. The fact that it can be repaired and worn for a long time is also a major appeal.

Yonehama will never forget 1985, the year we listed our shares on the Fukuoka Stock Exchange. The blazer I had made for me then, when I was 42 years old, is still in use today. Well, I guess that just shows how well I've maintained my physique (laughs).
Funabashi : Yes, that's absolutely true. I recall the waist adjustment was only about 1 centimeter.
My wife, Yonehama , thinks it's all a bit strange, but I spend every day drinking and eating as I please (laughs).
Infielders are even more amazing.
Yonehama's secret is stretching. (As if about to demonstrate) I can stick to the ground. It took me 3 or 4 years to be able to do this.
They also take good care of their Funabashi suits.
Yonehama doesn't do anything special. He just air-dries them out that night and takes them to the local dry cleaner at the end of the season.
Uchino himself?
Yonehama : Yes, I'm on a solo assignment away from home. But I don't have much freedom. My daughter comes to Tokyo unexpectedly, and she lives nearby, so it's hard to find time to hang out with her (laughs).

A common thread: paying attention to details that aren't visible.
Uchino: Nowadays, there are many tailors who have returned from overseas, but Mr. Funabashi was arguably one of the pioneers.
Since Funabashi clothing is of Western origin, I figured if I was going to do it, I had to go to the source. I trained at Caraceni (a long-established tailor in Rome) and started my own company when I was 30. I lived there for 33 years. It was really tough when I first became independent. One of the people who helped me during that time was the ambassador at the time. I was trudging along the cobblestone streets when a car suddenly stopped and he appeared in front of me. He said, "What's wrong? You look pale." I poured out all my troubles, and he decided to place an order. I was so nervous when I visited the embassy that I had to go back to have my measurements taken again (laughs).
Uchino: So that's how we got to where we are today. Now, with Epsilon being a brand that almost every customer who tries on it ends up buying, it's quite moving to think about.
Thank you, Funabashi . I believe the secret to this comfortable fit lies in the fact that it's hand-stitched, and also in the unique sense of balance that has been developed.
That's the Yajirobe theory that Uchino recently patented.
The balance is maintained in all directions, with the back of the neck of the Funabashi as the pivot point. I don't have anyone I can call a mentor when it comes to fitting. But I think that was a good thing. Because it allowed me to think things through thoroughly on my own.

I can see a similarity between Mr. Yonehama and Mr. Inobe in his attention to detail, even in things that aren't immediately visible. The news that they're switching all the ingredients in their champon to domestically grown vegetables was shocking.
Yonehama: From now on, it's an era where quality takes precedence over quantity, and I've always wanted to prioritize quality. I started using domestically produced vegetables seven years ago, and it took a year to make a complete transition. After retiring from the front lines at the age of 62, I started helping out behind the scenes in the industry, traveling all over the country to production areas. The vegetables I was allowed to eat there were genuinely delicious. That's when it all started. I started saying things like, "Japan's self-sufficiency rate is only 39%. This is terrible," like a politician (laughs).
I had worked so hard to get everyone fired up before returning to work, so I had to put it into action. Naturally, costs skyrocketed, and we just couldn't absorb the increase. The banks told us we were going against the times, but we pushed through and raised prices anyway. However, this was appreciated.
In the case of Uchino fabrics, the difficulty lies in finding good quality materials at reasonable prices that can be imported from England or Italy.
Yonehama: That's where you have to be serious about nurturing. You can be bold and say things like "bring Japanese food overseas," but just opening a shop isn't enough. You need to be meticulous, going to the source and giving guidance on things like how to make dashi (broth). Nurturing something means doing all of that; otherwise, it won't take shape. What makes me happiest about continuing this initiative is that when I go to the production areas, the business has been passed down to the children and grandchildren. It's really fun to exchange greetings like, "How's your father doing?"
The manufacturing sites in Funabashi, Tokyo , are all exhausted, and even in Italy 30 years ago, they called me a "white fly." In other words, there was no way anyone would come all the way from Japan to learn manufacturing. However, young people are starting to gather in Japan again now. I think there is potential.

Lastly, let's talk about the Nihonbashi Club (where the conversation took place). I understand that Mr. Funabashi became a member through Mr. Yonehama's introduction.
It is an honor to be a part of this prestigious club in Funabashi Nihonbashi. I have my studio in Nihonbashi because, in the Edo period, there was a shop called Nagasakiya (founded by Gen'emon Ehara, who was from Nagasaki) that dealt in medicinal herbs. Nagasakiya was also the regular lodging place for the head of the Dutch trading post. In other words, it was one of the few areas at the time where one could come into contact with Western civilization, and as someone born and raised in Nagasaki, I have a very special connection to it.
What struck me most after hearing Uchino's story was how Yonehama has always been there, supporting him both openly and behind the scenes. It seems he has a patron-like spirit.
Yonehama, what do you think about that?
Yes, Funabashi is there. He asked for my business card because he'll be handing them out at the party later today.
I think that maintaining that kind of awareness is one of the secrets to his youthful appearance. Combined with the suit that fits him perfectly, he looks 15 years younger.
Yonehama , let's go to Ginza tonight (laughs).
Yukihiko Funabashi
Yukihiko Funabashi, owner of Sartoria Ypsilon, honed his skills at prestigious British bespoke tailors and Caraceni in Rome before establishing Sartoria Ypsilon in Milan. He is an internationally renowned tailor, having even made clothes for the legendary director Federico Fellini. He proposes suits that are beautiful because they are perfectly balanced according to the wearer's body type, and that are so comfortable the wearer doesn't want to take them off.
Filming assistance provided by: Nihonbashi Club
This members-only social club was founded in Nihonbashi in 1890. Established by businessmen in Nihonbashi, the economic center of the rapidly modernizing area at the time, following the example of Western clubs, it currently boasts approximately 670 members. Following the redevelopment of the Nihonbashi Muromachi East district, it relocated to COREDO Muromachi 3 in 2014. In addition to meeting rooms, it features a lounge, dining room, and bar counter.
Text: Takegawa Keiji
Photo: Fujii Taku
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