[Interview] Wool and a touch of cashmere | CAHLUMN magazine, supervised by fashion director Akio Hasegawa, holds an event to propose this season's must-have city wear. | THE T-SHIRT 2024 @ ISETAN MEN'
- 05.08 Wed -05.28 Tue
- Isetan Shinjuku Men's Building 1F Promotion
CAHLUMN, whose creative director is stylist/fashion director Akio Hasegawa, is a media outlet that creates clothing while also irregularly publishing a lifestyle magazine.
From Wednesday, May 8th, CAHLUMN will be hosting an event at Isetan Shinjuku Store, Men's Building Isetan Shinjuku Store, Men's Building 1st Floor Promotion Area, where they will be showcasing city wear for spring and summer. Titled "Wool and a touch of cashmere," the event will feature an exhibition and sale of T-shirts made from functional materials suitable for all seasons, from spring and summer to autumn and winter, including washable merino wool and cashmere.
The lineup includes SNBYA.H, AMERIYAS, and BODHI. At the same time, issue 5.4 of the magazine, the seventh issue created specifically for this event, will be released and distributed for free at the venue. Additionally, there will be sales of printed T-shirts by KAMI, the artist who drew the cover for the magazine, and SECT UNO, the graffiti writer who drew the included stickers, as well as an exclusive on-site order event for embroidered T-shirts featuring graphics by SECT UNO.
- Event period: May 8th (Wed) - May 28th (Tue), 2024
- Venue: Isetan Shinjuku Store, Men's Building 1st Floor Promotion
*During peak hours, we may restrict entry or distribute numbered tickets.
*Please note that the guidance method may change depending on the crowd situation on the day.
*Depending on the crowd situation, we may limit the number of items you can purchase.
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Interview with Akio Hasegawa
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—It's almost summer, are you sure you want to wear wool and cashmere t-shirts?
Akio Hasegawa (AH): Wool and cashmere are incredibly comfortable materials, especially in spring and summer.
Better than cotton. It's a natural functional material that's moisture-wicking, quick-drying, antibacterial, and deodorizing. Therefore, it's not synthetic.
It's definitely more comfortable than anything else. I wanted to convey that, which is why I wanted to do this project. Research
Development takes time, so we haven't been able to make T-shirts for CAHLUMN yet.
--I see. In terms of functionality, for example, what are some of its strengths?
AH: In terms of functionality, it's really nothing but good. For example, it has natural antibacterial and deodorizing effects.
Because it doesn't easily retain odors, it's fine to wear it for several days. That's why it's so convenient for business trips. I like thick cotton T-shirts, but if I take several of those on a business trip, they're really bulky and get in the way. Plus, I wear a tank top under my T-shirt, so when you add that up, it becomes a huge amount of luggage. However, at SNBYA.H, which I started with SN, we also make wool T-shirts and tank tops, and because they're thin and light, they pack down compactly. It's the same with cashmere; they don't retain odors, so you don't need to wash them for several days. That means for short business trips, one is enough, and you don't need to bring a change of clothes. However, they do get a bit whitish from the salt in your sweat, so it's a good idea to bring a spare just in case, but they dry quickly after washing.
*At the event, Ameriyas will be selling Washable Merino Wool T-Shirts 19,800 yen , Washable Merino Wool Long Sleeve T-Shirts 22,000 yen , and Washable Merino Wool Boxer Briefs for 6,600 yen .
—The fact that it's compact might be something that's not widely known.
AH: Also, when it comes to the body color, wool and cashmere basically can't be made in white. It's either off-white or these dark colors. But on the other hand, the appeal is that it's chic and mature. With cotton T-shirts, I like white because it looks clean, but for people who do things like business meetings, I think it might be a little awkward to wear a white T-shirt. But wool and cashmere T-shirts come in a lot of dark colors, so I think they're good for work clothes. I think that people in professions that used to require wearing suits every day don't wear suits as much anymore, so I'd really like those people to wear them. Black T-shirts tend to fade a little as you wash them, but with wool, the color penetrates deep into the fibers, so it's less likely to fade, lasts a long time, and can be washed in a washing machine like normal. I've heard that washing cashmere too often isn't recommended either, but BODHI washes and shrinks the fabric once after it's made, so it seems less likely to shrink even when washed with water.
BODHICashmere T-Shirt 64,900 yen
*At the event, BODHI will be selling Cashmere T-Shirts 64,900 yen , Cashmere Long Sleeve T-Shirts 75,900 yen , Cotton Cashmere T-Shirts 19,800 yen , and Cotton Cashmere Long Sleeve T-Shirts 22,000 yen .
—I feel like the fact that it's washable isn't very well known. That's a real eye-opener. What other features does it have?
AH: I guess it means it's "less prone to odor." Sweat is the source of odor, but the people from all three brands said that bacteria don't easily multiply in wool. Apparently, sheep's wool has antibacterial properties to begin with. If bacteria could easily multiply, sheep would be more susceptible to disease. It's the same with human hair; the wool itself seems to have a function that makes it difficult for bacteria to multiply. So, with the various components released from sweat, bacteria would normally multiply and turn into ammonia and other substances that cause odor, but that doesn't happen as easily with wool. Compared to cotton T-shirts, it definitely doesn't smell as much.
Wool is made from sheep's hair, and cashmere is made from goat's hair. Because both are natural materials made from animal hair, they have inherent functions. The fact that they don't easily retain odors is also appealing from the perspective of adult etiquette.
AH: BODHI's cashmere is made on a similar principle, just with the difference being that it comes from a goat and a sheep. Washable merino wool yarn is made by straightening the curly hair and processing the surface of the hair, but cashmere is made without coating because it's naturally straight. It seems to have a higher oil content than wool, so it's less prone to bacterial growth. Also, it seems to have both deodorizing and odor-preventing properties. It can absorb odors and is less likely to retain them. Furthermore, it has a stain-resistant effect, making it less likely to get dirty. Moreover, it's resistant to ultraviolet rays, a function that sheep have to protect themselves from the sun, so it also provides UV protection. The goats that BODHI uses for cashmere live in Inner Mongolia, where it gets as hot as 40 degrees Celsius in the summer and as cold as minus 30 degrees Celsius in the winter, so the natural hair that can cope with such temperature differences functions even when worn by a person.
—Since they've grown up in a tough environment, they have a wealth of features, right? I've heard there are other advantages as well, but what are some of the points you would particularly like to highlight?
AH: When you wash clothes more often, it contributes to ocean pollution, right? This product is antibacterial and odorless, so you don't need to wash it. That's why I think it's perfect for today's times, when we have to think about the environment even a little. In the fashion industry, sustainable initiatives are surprisingly difficult, and in the end, we're forced to make clothes out of polyester and other synthetic fibers. Wool and cashmere make sense in that respect too. To put it positively, sheep and goats are basically just shearing animals whose wool keeps growing, so we're not killing them. Apparently, there are a lot of wool sheep in Australia, where there's land, rain, grass grows, the sheep eat it, and the wool grows. Merino sheep have wool that grows unchecked, so they need to be sheared about twice a year. In short, as long as there's sun, water, and soil, you can keep harvesting indefinitely. Moreover, 100% wool and cashmere are proteins, so they return to the soil and can even be used as fertilizer.
*At the event, SNBYA.H will be selling the following items: Washable Merino Wool T-Shirt 24,200 yen , Washable Merino Wool A-Shirt 16,500 yen , Washable Merino Wool Pants 37,400 yen 29,700 yen 19,800 yen , Washable Merino Wool Base Layer 19,800 yen, Washable Merino Wool Knit Cap 8,800 yen , Washable Merino Wool Shorts 27,500 yen , and Original Utility Bag 6,600 yen .
—Wool and cashmere are ahead of the curve when it comes to addressing the problems the entire global fashion industry is currently facing.
AH: Also, what's great about wool and cashmere is that they stay dry even when they get a little wet. Cotton absorbs water but doesn't release it easily, so it feels sticky against the skin, but wool traps moisture. Often, after washing wool clothes, they feel wet but not really wet.
Apparently, even though the surface isn't wet, it traps moisture inside the fibers. The cross-section of wool is like a lotus flower, with holes in the middle and a slightly smooth outer surface, so water vapor enters from the outside towards the holes in the middle, and it can trap up to 35% of its own weight in moisture. That's why wool feels dry to the touch. However, Japanese summers are too humid for wool and cashmere to keep up with that function. But unless it's the middle of summer, it functions really well and is much better than cotton. Some people even wear it straight from the washing machine without putting it in the dryer. At SNBYA.H, we suggest layering a tank top over a T-shirt, and the tank top underneath absorbs the sweat.
—So that's why the surface feels dry against the skin. The advantages of layering tank tops are also due to cotton.
That makes more sense.
AH: One downside to wool and cashmere t-shirts is that they're thin, so they tend to show your body shape. But I guess that's good because it reminds you to be careful not to gain too much weight (laughs). For example, some mountaineers use wool instead of synthetics for their base layers because they can't do laundry while climbing. That's why merino wool is often used in base layers from outdoor brands, but I really dislike how the seams and stitching are too outdoorsy. At SNBYA.H, we wanted to create something that could be worn as everyday street wear by working on things like puckering and patterns. If you prioritize functionality, I think wearing something that fits just right is best. In other words, you can't get high performance when climbing unless you wear the right size, but that's difficult for street wear. I think the common goal of all three brands is to create clothes with a slightly loose silhouette, like the clothes you normally wear. Making them looser means using more fabric, which increases the price, but it also makes them more durable, and the looser fit makes them feel cooler.
—It's really great for wearing in the summer, too.
AH: By the way, it's warm in winter and has good insulation. It protects you from the heat in summer and from the cold in winter. So maybe using wool for wine bottle bags is a good idea. If you make them out of old sweaters or something, they'll have cushioning and insulation, so that might be good too.
Fashion Direction, Styling:Akio Hasegawa
Photography: Seishi Shirakawa
Edit & Text:Hiroshi Kagiyama
Other product details
exclusively at Isetan Shinjuku Store T-Shirt featuring embroidered artwork by CAHLUMNKAMI - 8,800 yen
Brand's Profile
BODHI
Mizutani's knitwear brand, based on the concept of "ultimate everyday wear that coexists with nature," primarily uses the highest quality white cashmere. What impressed me the most was the cashmere sweatshirt hoodie he first created. It used so much white cashmere that it weighed a total of 1 kg, and was modeled after a thick American-made sweatshirt hoodie. Its appeal lies in the fact that it combines richness and toughness. As someone who creates highly original clothing, he knows that the appeal of cashmere is not limited to winter. That's why he has been releasing basic items that can be worn in spring and summer for many years now. This time, they are offering short-sleeved and long-sleeved T-shirts (black and navy) made of 100% white cashmere, and a cotton cashmere T-shirt (white only). The former uses extremely fine yarn of 13-15 microns. It's wonderful that they use 100% cashmere so luxuriously. Moreover, it seems that BODHI is the only company in Japan that uses such fine yarn. The latter, because it contains about 10% cashmere yarn mixed with cotton yarn, is expected to have odor-eliminating and moisture-wicking properties that 100% cotton T-shirts cannot offer.
Ameriyas
This is a washable merino knitwear brand created by Someya-kun of the sock brand CHICSTOCKS , with whom Hasegawa has had a long-standing relationship. In addition to long-sleeved T-shirts and short-sleeved T-shirts, they also make boxer brief-style underwear, and this time they are offering all of these. Originally, they were sold under the name CHICSTOCKS , but they changed the name this season. With the sock brand, they have been releasing washable merino wool socks together with me, and he apparently discovered the appeal of wool during the process of making those socks, which led him to launch a brand of T-shirts and other underwear. They use New Zealand merino wool with an ideal fineness of 17.5 microns for washable merino wool, and its appeal is that it does not feel itchy even when it comes into direct contact with the skin. It comes in two colors: navy and black.
SNBYA.H
SNBYA.H is a brand I created in collaboration with SN, a Swiss company, focusing on ultra-fine 17.5-micron washable merino wool yarn. SN stands for "SUPER NATURAL," meaning that by incorporating synthetic fibers, we can surpass natural materials. For the first season, we used core-yarn yarn, where wool yarn is wrapped around nylon yarn, prioritizing strength and quick-drying properties. However, from the second season onwards, I really wanted to use 100% wool, so I switched to 100% Australian wool for the knit caps and 100% New Zealand wool for everything else, which brings us to the present. Washable merino wool cut-and-sew tops are commonly seen in outdoor settings, but I disliked their overly outdoorsy design. I continued to wear them for over 10 years despite feeling that way, and the idea of "creating ordinary clothes that can be worn as everyday wear using washable merino material" was the starting point for this brand. This is our third collection. All garments are garment-dyed in a special domestic dyeing factory after sewing in Japan, resulting in a texture that cannot be achieved with pre-dyed fabrics. Furthermore, to avoid a smooth surface, we commissioned the factory to use a time-consuming sewing method, conducted numerous tests, and deliberately created a finish that exhibits puckering.
CAHLUMN
This is a clothing and magazine brand created by stylist Akio Hasegawa. For this event, he has gathered brands associated with him, such as SNBYA.H, BODHI, and Ameriyas , and is proposing items made from natural functional materials such as wool and cashmere as city wear suitable for spring and summer. In conjunction with the event, the 7th issue, No. 5.4, has been released as a zine (booklet), which is being specially distributed for free at the venue. It features visuals shot by photographer Seishi Shirakawa and summarizes its appeal in a dialogue format. Back issues of "CAHLUMN," including No. 5.1 which featured restaurants in Kyoto and Tokyo, and limited edition T-shirts specially produced for this event are also on sale.
Embroidery Order Event
From Saturday, May 18th to Tuesday, May 28th, customers who purchase either the limited edition T-shirt by CAHLUMNSECT UNO or the T-shirt by SNBYA.HBODHI Ameriyas will be able to order an embroidery service (for a fee) by "LAUGH AND SUNNYDAY".
- Order period: Saturday, May 18th - Tuesday, May 28th
- Embroidery price: large 2,200 yen , small 1,100 yen
- Delivery period: From late July onwards
- Venue: Isetan Shinjuku Store, Men's Building 1st Floor Promotion
Regarding sales methods *Updated May 10th (Fri)
"Akio Hasegawa's Selection"
Sales method
■ Isetan Shinjuku Store, Men's Building 1st Floor Promotion
Updated on Friday, May 10th
Regarding sales methods on May 11th (Sat) and 18th (Sat)
Customers wishing to enter THE T-SHIRT 2024 @ ISETAN MEN'S "Akio Hasegawa Selection" should arrive at Isetan Shinjuku Store, Men's Building, 1st Floor, The Stage (location marked with a ★ in the diagram) by 10:10 AM. A lottery will be held to determine the order of entry.
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*If you are late for the drawing time, you will not be able to participate in the drawing for any reason.
*For both events, general admission tickets will be distributed sequentially after the lottery is held.
*Limit of one item per person per model.
*Only those who have participated in the lottery and received a numbered ticket will be allowed entry. Accompanying guests will not be admitted.
*Please note that due to limited stock, your desired item may be sold out before you enter the store.
Regarding the sales method on Wednesday, May 8th: *The lottery has ended.
Customers wishing to enter THE T-SHIRT 2024 @ ISETAN MEN'S "Akio Hasegawa Selection" should arrive at Isetan Shinjuku Store, Men's Building, 1st Floor, The Stage (location marked with a ★ in the diagram) by 10:10 AM. A lottery will be held to determine the order of entry.
![]()
*If you are late for the drawing time, you will not be able to participate in the drawing for any reason.
*For both events, general admission tickets will be distributed sequentially after the lottery is held.
*Limit of one item per person per model.
*Only those who have participated in the lottery and received a numbered ticket will be allowed entry. Accompanying guests will not be admitted.
*Please note that due to limited stock, your desired item may be sold out before you enter the store.
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*All prices include tax.
*The information in this article is current as of the time of publication. Product information may be revised or changed without notice.
*Please note that event details may be subject to change without prior notice.
*Depending on the crowd situation on the day, you may have to wait for a long time before making your purchase.
*If there are many people wishing to purchase an item, there is a possibility that you may not be able to purchase the item you want even if you come to the store.
*Added information on sales methods. May 10th
For inquiries, please contact Isetan Shinjuku Store, Men's Building , B1F, Underwear, Socks, and Nightwear. Tel: 03-3352-1111 (Main number)
For inquiries via email, please click here.
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