Takeshi Osumi, designer of PHENOMENON, undoubtedly had a significant impact on the Tokyo fashion scene, particularly on the subsequent luxury streetwear scene. He is also a pioneer in the early crossover of fashion with hip-hop culture, which now dominates the mainstream.
In the hip-hop scene, remixing is a common technique, and in the fashion scene, this technique is called collaboration, which could be considered synonymous with remixing.

PHENOMENON will be holding a pop-up focusing on its Fall/Winter 2023 collection at Isetan Shinjuku Store, Men's Building 6th floor, Men's Contemporary, starting November 8th (Wednesday). The pop-up will feature a preview of uniquely designed BE@RBRICK figures created in collaboration with MASTERMIND/mastermind Japan, which released its first team-up collection in 10 years in 2022, and MEDICOM TOY, which has close ties to both companies. The pop-up will express the brand's worldview with content that is truly characteristic of PHENOMENON, full of a sense of remixing.

To uncover the truth behind how PHENOMENON became a "phenomenon" in the fashion scene, as its brand name suggests, we conducted interviews with key figures and collaboration partners connected to Oosumi. The three individuals who agreed to be interviewed were Mr. Honma from MASTERMIND JAPAN, Mr. Akashi from MEDICOM TOY, and Mr. Maruryu from FUMITO GANRYU, with whom we will be collaborating in the 2024 SS season. We hope you will gain some insight into this story through the collaborative pieces they created together and the anecdotes from that time.

INTERVIEW with MASTERMIND JAPAN_Mr. Honma

I thought he was one of the designers who deserved to be recognized (in the world).

—When did you two meet?

It all started with Tokyo Collection (in 2011). After Tokyo Collection, when I went to see the (PHENOMENON) exhibition, Mr. Oosumi treated me very kindly, which was the opposite of the impression I had of the clothes he designed.

—What was theきっかけ (trigger/reason) for the collaboration?

It all started when I genuinely wanted that MA-1 (LOOP MA-1) collaboration version. I thought that if we made it, our customers would be happy. At that time, I wanted to do something to spread Japanese brands to the world, and social media wasn't as advanced as it is now, so I also wanted to introduce him as one of the designers who makes really good designs. It might have been presumptuous of me, but I thought he was one of the designers who would be recognized (worldwide). He makes shorts out of really real fur, and instead of making items that you can't wear every day, he incorporates them into streetwear, and I think he's a designer who is good at striking that balance.

—What do you think of the crossover feel that PHENOMENON creates?

He might have been one of the few designers who could create a truly great remix, blending a luxurious feel with street casual elements.

—Do you have any memories or anecdotes about Oosumi?

I have very fond memories of you participating in the mastermind JAPAN show held in Hong Kong in 2011. Thank you for coming all the way to Hong Kong. Your appearance really stood out.

—What do you think is the phenomenon that PHENOMENON created?

He was a designer who created many items that are still talked about as masterpieces today. More than what he left behind, I would have liked to see what he would have created in the future.

▶︎FOCUS ITEM

LOOP MA-1

This item is truly the quintessential PHENOMENON piece, symbolizing Oosumi Design. When they collaborated twice, in 2012 and 2022, this was the item selected by Mr. Honma. It's a piece that has captivated international hip-hop musicians such as A$AP Rocky and the Treated Crew.

INTERVIEW with MEDICOM TOY_Akashi

The look was exquisite and strangely captivating; I was instantly enthralled.

—When did you meet Oosumi?

Professionally, I believe the first time we worked together was at SWAGGER NERDBALL, under the name SWAGGER. So, that would be back in 2002. At that time, our communication was through an intermediary, and we didn't speak directly.

—What items come to mind when you think of Oosumi or PHENOMENON?

I owned an outer garment from PHENOMENON that featured a soldier and rose motif. I remember purchasing it not so much because I was consciously drawn to the brand PHENOMENON, but simply because I was so impressed by the exquisite choice of motifs. I recall first meeting them at their first runway show in 2010, when their collection was presented. The looks were exquisite and strangely captivating, and I was immediately enthralled. I was then invited to their exhibition through my contact person. Personally, the Fall/Winter 2011-12 collection left the strongest impression on me.

—Could you tell us about any items from PHENOMENON that particularly impressed you with their remix-like feel?

This is a tailored jacket with an air vent on the collar. It has become (personally) my most frequently worn piece. I think it's a masterpiece that blends ease of wear with a touch of the extraordinary.

—What do you think is the phenomenon that PHENOMENON created?

It's a fusion of street style and high fashion. Moreover, I think it's a rare brand that has elevated that fusion in an extremely unique way.

▶︎FOCUS ITEM

BE@RBRICK Karimoku MASTERMIND WORLD X PHENOMENON 400%

This is a collaboration model between MASTERMIND WORLD and PHENOMENON, featuring a wooden BE@RBRICK made by Karimoku. It boasts an artistic quality, embodying the pinnacle of craftsmanship. The design incorporates the iconic symbols of both MASTERMIND WORLD and PHENOMENON. This release will be a pre-order lottery, with the official release scheduled for December 2023.
*This pop-up store is the only place where this item will be sold at Isetan Shinjuku.

► Regarding the sale of BE@RBRICK Karimoku mastermind WORLD X PHENOMENON 400%

INTERVIEW with FUMITO GANRYU

He was someone who had the strength to believe in his own senses until the very end, and who could fight with his intuition.

—Could you tell us how you met?

I think it was around 10 years ago that I participated in an event called Versa Tokyo. Before I knew it, I was being invited to meals with him. There were times when there were other people around, but I think there were also times when it was just the two of us. Most of the time, it was through mutual acquaintances.

—Could you tell us about any items or designs that remind you of Oosumi?

Tiger camouflage is the first motif that comes to mind for me. It's a classic item, but the way the color scheme completely changes its impression is the true essence of fashion, and I was impressed by that sense of style. Overall, the items from that collection left a lasting impression on me, including the bandanas and shorts. I feel that this season successfully harmonized seemingly contradictory elements in the looks, such as taking hard-edged items and incorporating them into a spring/summer style with a well-chosen color palette.

—Could you tell us about any items from PHENOMENON that particularly impressed you with their remix-like feel?

It might be more about the show's production than just the items themselves. I mean the entire worldview, including the music played during the show. In terms of design, Oosumi's sources of inspiration are very unique, such as motifs from Hanafuda cards and armor. He extracts them intuitively. Rather than logically thinking, "What will happen if I mix this and that?", he mixes them by feel, and that sense was amazing. I'm sure that's because he's a musician. I wonder if he's aiming for serendipity, or if he's treating the designs as melodies and making them work synesthetically. Looking back now, those are just speculations.

—What do you think is the phenomenon that PHENOMENON created?

I feel that today's fashion is an extension of what Mr. Osumi was doing. His movements seemed to foreshadow the current luxury scene, and even though the form has changed, I feel that he continues to exert a definite influence. It's a vibe that you absolutely cannot create by just making clothes seriously. The way a community brand exists in contemporary luxury fashion, and the atmosphere it creates, is also unique to Mr. Osumi. His very existence is stylish. There aren't many people like him. Including his pure nature, he had the strength to believe in his own sense of style to the very end, and he was someone who could fight with his sensibility.

▶︎FOCUS ITEM

TIGER CAMOUFLAGE N2-B JKT

As mentioned in the interview, the blue color scheme creates a striking impact in this asymmetrically designed N2-B jacket. This piece is an original item created by Oosumi, given an academic interpretation by Maruryu's techniques. It is a collaboration piece with PHENOMENON, scheduled for release in the Spring/Summer 2024 season.

*Scheduled to be released on Wednesday, November 8th at 10:00 AM.

This product is available for pre-order only (scheduled for delivery between December and January 2024).

Sales at Isetan Shinjuku are limited to this pop-up store.

We will be holding a pre-registration lottery, so please check the details below if you wish to make a reservation.

*Please be sure to check the details below before applying, and then apply via the [Mitsukoshi Isetan Remote Shopping App].

*Winners are limited to customers who can make a payment using the Mitsukoshi Isetan Remote Shopping App during the POP UP event period (November 8th to November 14th).

*Please note that applications submitted using a method other than the specified application method may be invalidated, even if submitted during the application period.

[How to apply]

1. Download the [Mitsukoshi Isetan Remote Shopping App] from the URL below and register as a member (free).

▶Download the Mitsukoshi Isetan Remote Shopping App here

2. Register the shop " Isetan Shinjuku Store, Men's Building 6F, Men's Contemporary".

3. Submit the form from the "Menu" on the chat screen, under "BE@RBRICK Karimoku mastermind WORLD X PHENOMENON 400% Application Deadline: November 10th (Fri) 15:00".

4. Application complete (Your application is complete once you submit it.)
* Chatting in the chat room does not constitute an application.

[MI Card Plus]

Priority will be given to MI Card Plus members in this lottery.

Please enter the 10-digit customer number printed on your MI Card Plus into the lottery application form.
*The card number (16 digits) will be invalid.

Even if you don't have an MI Card Plus, you can participate in the lottery by applying via the link below.
(In that case, you will need the application number that will be sent to you after your application is complete.)

Please note that this offer is only valid for those who apply via the URL below.

▶Click here to apply for the MI Card Plus

*For new members applying in person at the MI Card counter, please be sure to tell the staff member the application code [Application Code 1085] when applying.

*Customers who have newly applied for MI Card Plus should enter the "Application Number (11 digits)" listed in the application confirmation email into the lottery application form.

* Lottery application period: November 7th (Tue) 10:00 AM to November 10th (Fri) 3:00 PM

*Outside of the lottery application period, applications submitted through any form other than the one on the Mitsukoshi Isetan remote shopping app "[ Isetan Shinjuku Store, Men's Building 6F] Men's Contemporary" will be considered invalid.

*The results of the application will be announced only to the winning customers via chat on the Mitsukoshi Isetan remote shopping app "[ Isetan Shinjuku Store, Men's Building 6F] Men's Contemporary" between noon and 5 PM on Sunday, November 12th.

*Only one entry per person is allowed. Multiple entries will be disqualified from the drawing.

*Purchase is limited to one item per person.

*Reservations will be accepted only from customers who have been selected.

*Please note that we cannot accept returns or exchanges due to customer reasons.

【inquiry】
Isetan Shinjuku Store, Men's Building 6th Floor, Men's Contemporary
TEL 03-3352-1111 (main representative)