BerBerJin, a renowned vintage shop that has made a name for itself worldwide as a mecca for vintage clothing, is opening its first physical store, a limited-time pop-up shop at Isetan Shinjuku. New Manual, a brand launched in the spring of 2022 by Yu Fujiwara, director of BerBerJin and active as a vintage denim advisor, is based on the concept of "reinterpreting the good old days with a modern perspective and creating a new 'manual'."

Osamu Toriyama, the Isetan buyer behind this highly talked-about event, invited Mr. Fujiwara, and together they held a three-way discussion with Motofumi "Poggy" Ogi, a world-renowned fashion curator who is said to be close to Mr. Fujiwara. From the brand's origins and commitment to craftsmanship to the reasons why it is so enthusiastically supported in the current era and why Isetan Men's is strongly promoting it, and details of the exclusive items that everyone is curious about, each of them spoke passionately about the appeal of New Manual from their own unique perspective.

A new brand created by a vintage expert, neither a reproduction nor a replica.

Mr. Toriyama, Mr. Fujiwara, and Mr. Ogi, thank you for joining us today. This pop-up event is a long-awaited dream come true, and the initial impetus for it all stemmed from my excitement when I visited the pre-launch exhibition of New Manual, commonly known as the "Zero Exhibition." I wanted to share the overwhelming coolness that resonated with more than just vintage clothing enthusiasts with Isetan's customers.

Fujiwara : Thank you for your kind words. Toriyama, what were your impressions after actually seeing the Zero exhibition?

Our sales representative invited me to check out the new ready-to-wear brand launched by "that" Fujiwara-san, who is renowned as a Toriyama vintage expert. But even though the brand hadn't even debuted yet, there was a long line of people at the venue. Seeing that only heightened my expectations even more. I joined the line, feeling incredibly excited, and eagerly awaited entry.


To maintain a satisfactory level of quality, the Fujiwara New Manual is limited to 100 pieces for each model that features a distressed finish. Of course, there are no plans to offer it at "Berberjin" either. What's more, at the time of the Zero Exhibition, we didn't even have an e-commerce site up and running. In other words, taking orders directly from customers at the exhibition venue was our only sales route. As a result, it seems that some customers had to wait quite a while, and we sincerely apologize for that.

Toriyama : Not at all! Indeed, at the venue, I could strongly feel their desire to convey each and every product to the customers without any waste. Looking closely at the first five models that were announced, I was overwhelmed by the processing techniques that faithfully reproduced the fading and texture unique to vintage denim. At the same time, I think that because I'm not someone who is particularly knowledgeable about vintage or denim, I was able to view the New Manual collection from a neutral perspective, as fashion.
I'm 31 this year, so I'm younger than Fujiwara-san and Ogi-san, but even from our perspective, as people who didn't experience the vintage clothing boom of the 1990s, I felt it was a truly wonderful fashion item.


Ogi: I also visited the Zero exhibition and ordered the First denim jacket that I'm wearing today... The quality of the processing on the New Manual is simply on another level. I think many brands have aimed for the ultimate "realism" up until now, but there's something different about it. The finish is almost like "real" vintage, and I was really surprised.
The limited quantity of 100 pieces is also great. No matter how wonderful the "sample" of the processing is, since it is a job done by human hands, the more it is mass-produced, the more inconsistencies will gradually occur as the work is repeated, and the workers will get tired.

Since it's not a Toriyama machine, there are limitations, right?

Ogi : What's more, it doesn't have that overdone feel that's common in "reproduction" items, which is another characteristic. If you just thoroughly reproduce old things, it will only satisfy a small number of enthusiasts. By pursuing "realism" while keeping it clean, there's room for it to change depending on the person wearing it—I felt that this approach was fresh.
It's definitely not a brand with a narrow "entry point" that limits your choices down to your outfit or hairstyle. I think it's a brand where all kinds of people can enjoy dressing in their own way.


Toriyama: I also strongly felt that New Manual's denim is a denim that can be proposed as a complete vintage-style fashion item, while also embodying the concept of "breaking it in."
Denim has a deep history and is often perceived as a complex world with many intricate details. Mr. Fujiwara, who knows this field inside and out and is more knowledgeable than anyone else, is making suggestions while keeping modern fashion in mind. I would like to introduce to our customers with confidence that this is one of the right answers and could be a new entry point into the world of denim.

An extremely meticulous approach that specifies not only the fabric and yarn, but even the origin of the cotton.

Fujiwara: It's wonderful to receive such kind words from two people who are so active in the heart of the fashion world. That's because the company behind New Manual is called "YutoRi18" and is located in Okayama. It's a processing company that boasts top-notch technology and also handles denim for luxury brands.
I'm really dedicated to figuring out how to express the vintage pieces I've seen through the "processing" of ready-made clothing, so I'm genuinely happy that people appreciate that aspect.
I own a variety of true vintage watches, some of which are worth as much as 10 million yen, so I could offer the ultimate reference and processing samples. However, I decided to develop this project as a collection with a limited number of models, specifically "33 selections."

The total number of models, including those not yet published by Toriyama , is already determined.

Fujiwara : Yes. I've carefully selected 33 pieces from my collection of masterpieces, all of which I'm confident are the best vintage pieces I've ever seen, and which I believe should be preserved for future generations. I'm committed to using the world's finest processing techniques to create expressions that are linked to contemporary fashion.
Of course, we are meticulous about every detail, from the stitching and the fabric to the thread. We even use a secret denim fabric that has my initials printed on the product number.
Although we haven't finished testing it yet, this denim offers the enjoyment of fading from the first wash, so in addition to the vintage type that has been praised by everyone, we will also be adding a one-wash type to each model.

Toriyama: That's amazing! I heard you even specify the origin of the cotton. I've never heard of anyone else being that particular. By the way, how did you decide on the number 33?

To be honest, when I spoke to Fujiwara Masanao , the project members initially suggested 100 items. However, by carefully selecting not only denim but also items that go well with denim, I narrowed it down to 30. If I had tried to make it a nice round number like 50 or 100, it would have included things that were, in a sense, superfluous to me.
However, there were some things I really wanted to add, and in the end, I settled on 33 because it sounded good.

So, Fujiwara-san carefully considered and selected the "ultimate 33 selections" without deciding on the number of Toriyama 's selections beforehand! By the way, I hear that Ogi-san has been close to Fujiwara-san for quite some time.


I've known Yu Ogi (Fujiwara) for almost 25 years now. BerBerJin, located on Tonchan Street in Harajuku, was diagonally across from the store where I was working as a shop staff member at the time. I loved clothes so much that I didn't even rest during my breaks. If I had even a little free time, I wanted to go around and look at clothes at the nearby shops.

Fujiwara , you used to come visit us often on the days when new products arrived at "BerBerJin"! I'm really grateful that we've continued to be friends on a personal level ever since then.

On days when I had work, I would go to the nearby "Berberjin" store, and on my days off, I would travel to Gunma or other areas I wouldn't normally be able to go to. To look at clothes (laughs).
However, back then, I had time but absolutely no money. I wasn't even allowed to touch the precious "true vintage" items that well-known vintage shops carried. But even amidst all that, BerBerJin, where Yu-kun worked, let me try on both regular items and true vintage pieces equally. There's no doubt that those opportunities for "learning" have become the foundation of who I am today.

Fujiwara: To me, Mr. Ogi is one year older than me, but he's also a senior figure in the industry who I always turn to for advice. He's like a reliable older brother who tells me, "Ask me anything you don't understand." Of course, I consulted him first when we were launching the new manual. He gave me all sorts of advice, though I can't say what it was here. (laughs)

A new vintage manual that everyone can enjoy.

Toriyama : Earlier, Fujiwara-san said that "the processing allows for expressions that are relevant to modern fashion." Specifically, how does this differ from typical reproductions or replicas?


Fujiwara : As I mentioned earlier, I've decided on 33 of my most important and ultimate vintage pieces, and I aim to recreate them as close to the originals as possible using the best processing techniques that "IyatoRi18" possesses, capturing the historical context, production background, stories of scratches and repairs, and the size including shrinkage, as well as the details, fading, and mood of each original piece.
But what fundamentally differentiates these from replicas or mere reproductions is that, based on the unwavering "sensory knowledge" I've gained from seeing, wearing, touching, and verifying things over the years, I'm updating them into items that I want to wear now, items that are relevant to the contemporary fashion scene.

So, Toriyama's work isn't exactly "exactly the same," right?

Fujiwara : Yes. Rather than just copying it exactly, we've made subtle changes to make it more modern and easier to wear, such as slightly enlarging the armholes of the jacket and making the length a little longer, while still cherishing the best aspects of the original.

It seems like this version is a bit longer and larger than Toriyama's original. I wonder if this is a response to the current popularity of oversized silhouettes?

It's not that we're ignoring Fujiwara 's trendy silhouettes, but what's more important is how you want to wear it. For example, right now, many people want to layer a denim jacket with a reverse weave sweatshirt. However, especially with rare vintage pieces, it's often difficult to find a suitable size to layer them with a sweatshirt.

Toriyama : I see, that makes sense. In that case, I suppose the item you're most attached to is the "T BACK DENIM JACKET" which is designated as "001"? Also, jackets only come in one size, right?

Fujiwara: The best vintage denim jacket I've ever owned is undoubtedly the Levi's "506XXE" (commonly known as the "T-back"). This image has become so ingrained that people around me even call me "T-back Fujiwara" (laughs).
Actually, one of the things I'm particular about is that all the jackets come in only one size (the pants come in two sizes, 31 and 34). This is related to the fact that almost all of New Manual's collections are based on vintage pieces that I own.


The denim jackets referred to as "T-back" jackets only exist in extra-large sizes 46 and above, so the back is too wide and a seam had to be added down the center. This is how the seam came to look like the letter T. So, we thought of this as a suggestion that there's a reason why "T-back" jackets are sized this way.

The more I hear about it, the more I realize how new it all is. (laughs)

The project name "New Manual," suggested by Tomohito Ushiro, who is in charge of art direction for the Fujiwara team, really resonated with me. It's a new manual for vintage items that is open to everyone. I want it to be a new manual that properly expresses the vintage sensibilities I've cultivated, using the best processing techniques and a modern sensibility, and to convey that to our customers.

Ogi: Listening to what you've just said, I can totally understand why New Manual has so many female fans. I think Yu-kun has always believed that if you don't create various "entry points," good items themselves will just keep decreasing, and that there's no future for the vintage industry.

Don't miss their first physical store opening and shop-exclusive models.

Toriyama: And this time, they've prepared an "entrance" for Isetan customers. This is the brand's first physical store, and they've also created a limited edition model for the first time for the shop (exclusive Isetan Shinjuku Store, Men's Building ). Thank you so much!

It is an honor to have been given this precious opportunity to open a store at Fujiwara Isetan, and we are grateful for it. Isetan Shinjuku Store, Men's Building exclusive items, we focused on how to showcase them through processing. Based on the "#001" model that we created first, we prepared and presented different color fading samples from the inline collection.

The second sample from Toriyama is what I'm wearing today!


The fading is more intense than the Ogi Inline model, and it looks great in its own way.

Thank you, Toriyama ! At Isetan, we wanted something that would allow us to fully appreciate the essence of the processing that is characteristic of the New Manual. Of course, we discussed the direction of the colors based on the customer's preferences, but we left everything regarding the processing content and the implementation of the details to Fujiwara-san. The result is truly wonderful... I would like to buy it myself if possible.


Fujiwara: The reference for this Isetan Shinjuku Store, Men's Building limited edition item was a pair of T-backs from my own collection that I've worn quite a bit and that have developed a really intense fade. Because the processing is so intense, shrinkage is also more likely to occur, so I had to remake the sample twice, but I finally arrived at a finish that I was satisfied with. There were also elements that were a new challenge for "IyatoRi18," and I'm grateful that I was able to make new discoveries and gain new experience.

Toriyama's New Manual is usually limited to 100 copies, but this special order model is planned to be even rarer, making it even more exclusive.

Fujiwara: We apologize to our customers, but due to various constraints, we can only prepare the maximum number of items we can. As a substitute, however, we plan to specially sell original white T-shirts made with "Los Angeles Apparel" bodies, which were originally made for our staff, exclusively at this pop-up store.
This is another item I can confidently recommend as a perfect match for vintage denim. When tucked into jeans, the patch is designed to be just right, peeking out from the side.


Toriyama: I want this too! (laughs) Many of Isetan's customers prefer a simple, clean, dark-toned style, and I think this custom-made denim jacket would instantly enhance that look. The power of New Manual's processing is truly unique. Inspired by true vintage, I can't wait for our customers to see the coolness that transcends mere "knowledge"!

Fujiwara: This pop-up event is the brand's first ever event where customers can come, try on clothes, make purchases, and leave right away. Our usual exhibition style only allows us to take orders, so I'm really looking forward to this. I hope we can sell everything! (laughs)



Photograph: Tatsuya Ozawa
Text: Junya Hasegawa (america)

＊All prices include tax.
＊The information in this article is current as of the time of publication. Product information may be revised or changed without notice.
*Some errors were found in the text, and it has now been corrected. February 27, 2023 (Monday)
*Sold-out information has been updated. March 1, 2023 (Wed) 6:00 PM

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