The popular series "Isetan Men's Stroll" continues with its fifth installment featuring buyers and curators, exploring the world of blazers.



Takayuki Inoue of Men's Authentic on the 7th floor Isetan Shinjuku Store, Men's Building joins Shinji Hashimoto, editor of MEN'S EX, on a tour of renowned stores essential to any discussion of blazers. The two head to BEAMS PLUS Yurakucho, a leading American traditional brand, and J.PRESS & SON'S AOYAMA, which continues to update classic styles with a flexible interpretation.

We'll discuss his dedication to the timeless item, the blazer, and explore the future of American traditional style beyond it.




The first place the two visited was a mecca of American traditional style, located in Yurakucho, an area with a distinctly traditional atmosphere.

Experience authentic American traditional style at BEAMS PLUS Yurakucho.

BEAMS PLUS Yurakucho exudes a traditional atmosphere.

Taiji Suzuki (hereinafter, Suzuki): This BEAMS PLUS Yurakucho store is a relocation of the Marunouchi store, which was established 15 years ago, eight years ago. It was originally located on Nakadori Street. BEAMS PLUS has two stores, including the Harajuku store. While the Harajuku store mainly focuses on workwear and military items, the Yurakucho store is based on the concept of a traditional shop in the city. To match its location in the business district, we envisioned it as being like Madison Avenue in New York. A distinctive feature of the products we offer is that we prominently feature heavy clothing.

Shinji Hashimoto (hereinafter, Hashimoto) : I often go to the Harajuku store as well, and I do get the impression that the atmosphere and the type of customers are different when you go in. There's a good sense of tension there.

Takayuki Inoue (hereinafter, Inoue): The interior looks quite different too. Harajuku has a workwear and vintage feel, but this one has a lovely, traditional white-based interior.

Suzuki: In recent years, I've noticed that the options for classic American traditional style are becoming increasingly limited. In this environment, I want to continue being a "go-to shop" that our loyal customers can visit with confidence. In fact, we have many repeat customers, and many come to us because their blazers, purchased several years ago, are worn out or no longer fit, and they want to buy new ones. It might be a niche area for true American traditional fans, but I want to spread the idea that "American traditional = BEAMS PLUS Yurakucho."

The "Tailor Line," an indispensable element of BEAMS PLUS.

Suzuki : What embodies our philosophy is our "Tailor Line," which offers items that are always available and remain unchanged. It was launched 15 years ago when we opened our Marunouchi store, the predecessor of "BEAMS PLUS Yurakucho," and we have continued to produce blazers, gray suits, and gray slacks as its basic components. With the desire to deliver our concept and products directly to our customers, we offer it at three stores: "BEAMS PLUS Harajuku," "BEAMS PLUS Yurakucho," and "BEAMS Kobe."

The design was sampled from an American suit from the early 1960s, which was then adapted into a pattern and modified in the BEAMS PLUS style to suit the Japanese physique. Particular attention was paid to the details that followed the original: three patch flap pockets, a three-button roll-over closure, a low gorge line, narrow lapels, and a hook vent. All the typical details of an Ivy League blazer have been incorporated into the design. The silhouette is completely cylindrical with slightly narrower shoulders, a modern interpretation of the No. 1 sack model.


Hashimoto's garment has something like darts in the waist area, which is an unusual detail.

Suzuki : This is a pattern made by the tailor "Jizi" in Kobe. The cutting is designed to create a straight waistline while achieving a comfortable, enveloping fit. I've been working closely with "Jizi" on our "Tailor Line" for 15 years now, and we meet in person every six months to discuss our business. We update it every season, and when I explain my ideas in words, they immediately draw up patterns and bring them to life. Their ability to draw inspiration from conversation and translate it into output is incredibly high. Lately, we've been emphasizing the forward curve of the armholes. Would you like to try it on?


The way the Hashimoto jacket sits on the shoulders seems different from the brand's standard models. When I saw it hanging up, I thought it might have a stiff image, but when you wear it, it looks sophisticated and nice.

Inoue Tweed sports coats have a heavy, substantial image, but they're surprisingly lightweight and comfortable. You can move your arms easily too.

Suzuki: This "Tailor Line" uses only interlining to create a natural shoulder line, expressing a natural shoulder shape. With established American manufacturers, the shoulder pads are quite large, the shoulder width is wide, and the silhouette is much more relaxed. Also, many of them use flat patterns for mass production, but the blazers in the "Tailor Line" have been redesigned to be three-dimensional. This is the result of continuous improvements to make them suit Japanese people.

Hashimoto: I often wear straight-leg pants, so this amount of volume is the most balanced for me. It has a basic feel that can be paired with both dressy and casual outfits, making it very easy to wear.

The sports coats worn by the two Suzukis are available in a wide range of sizes, from 34 to 44. We've also made an effort to offer competitive pricing, with the navy blazer at 63,800 yen and the gray herringbone tweed sports coat at 72,600 yen .

Made in Japan by Hashimoto , this quality at an astonishing price. I think this is quite a bargain.

To carry on American tradition

Hashimoto , you've been making it the same way for the past 15 years. Have there been any changes in customer reactions or what customers are looking for during that time?

Suzuki: In recent years, technical materials have become widespread and mainstream. I've also noticed that customers' preferences have shifted towards comfortable and casual styles over the past five years or so. Within that context, our "Tailor Line" adheres to the principle of using only natural materials, and our commitment is to continue making traditional suits without pandering to trends. We take pride in being able to offer the same suit again to customers who come to us saying, "My old one is worn out and I want something new."

Inoue: On the other hand, the keyword "Ivy League" is appearing frequently again in various media outlets. What is the actual reaction of young people to it?

Given our location in Yurakucho , most of our customers are in their late 30s or older, with the majority being in their 40s and 50s. Currently, we don't have many customers in their 20s, but we do have some young staff members in their 20s, so we have high hopes for that.


Hashimoto : Among young people, the trend of dressing casually using basic American button-down shirts and blazers is quite popular. However, you don't see many people dressing in a more traditional style.

Suzuki: That's right. American traditional style isn't just about catchy items; it's built on a lineage and rules, so we try to convey that spirit. I'm practically forcing my staff to wear sports coats when they're in the store (laughs). Even for customers who aren't interested in the traditional way of wearing sports coats, I hope that they can see and feel what American traditional style is all about, without me having to explain it, not in terms of imprinting an image on them, but just by looking at it.

Inoue, could you tell us about your future plans for passing this on to the younger generation?

Suzuki 's Americana style offers a comforting sense of timelessness while never becoming outdated. Even with the same basic items, you can incorporate contemporary elements by combining tab collars instead of button-downs, and by utilizing subtle details. I hope you'll find enjoyment in this process. Because the items themselves remain constant, you can gradually adapt your styling to the times, making them truly authentic garments that you can wear for years to come.


Suzuki: It would be amazing if, like the Ivy League style of the 60s and the French Ivy League style of the 80s, people started saying that the Ivy League style of the 2020s was defined by Beams Plus in Yurakucho. I will continue to persistently convey its appeal so that it becomes a legend in the future.

Hashimoto and Inoue , we'll do our best to liven things up!


Having experienced the essence of American traditional style in Yurakucho, the two headed to the Aoyama area, which exudes a modern atmosphere.

The true value of "J.PRESS GREEN," a collaboration label between J.PRESS & SON'S and Isetan Men's.

What kind of upcycling project is this established traditional brand undertaking?

I've come to J.PRESS & SON'S AOYAMA in Inoue Aoyama. Compared to BEAMS PLUS, this store seems to reinterpret traditional styles with a more contemporary approach. By the way, I worked with Mr. Kurono to create "J.PRESS GREEN," which I'm in charge of.

Tomoya Kurono (hereinafter, Kurono) : "J.PRESS GREEN" is a collaborative label that started two years ago when Isetan approached us. It began with the Spring/Summer 2021 season and this is the third time we've collaborated.

Inoue: With upcycling and sustainability gaining attention, we were looking for a project that would leverage our strengths, and that's when we approached Onward, a company with a long history and a large stock of fabrics. The idea started when we realized that they might have leftover fabrics that weren't being used. We're now focusing on these unused fabrics and proposing ways to give them a new life.

Kurono has created blazers and suits using various deadstock fabrics. I thought it would be interesting to put them on an authentic shape, so I'm using the same pattern as J.PRESS ORIGINALS. It has familiar details such as a three-button roll-over closure, flap pockets, red piping on the inside, and a hook vent. Many department store customers prefer a tight fit, but for "J.PRESS GREEN," I drew inspiration from a classic American traditional pattern to create a silhouette that is classic yet can be said to be modern when worn today.

This season features richly textured tweed and a versatile item that can be paired with it!

Up until now, Kurono has used distinctive fabrics in his designs, but this season he chose tweed. He has noticed that tweed is becoming more popular among younger people recently, and he wanted to properly introduce it at this time. From a huge number of candidates, he carefully selected four types, including classic yet modern checks, basic herringbone, and nep fabrics. He tried to create a good balance, from easy-to-wear pieces to playful ones.


Inoue, there were so many wonderful fabrics, it was hard to choose! (laughs)

The black buttons are another distinctive feature. While you might be tempted to use covered buttons on a tweed jacket, we deliberately opted for gold buttons to create an unusual mix of styles.


This time, we've also prepared some unexpected items made from the same fabric. Believe it or not, we've made caps from the same tweed material as the jackets. They were made by an Osaka-based manufacturer called "Punctuation," and they have a beautiful handmade finish. The "J" logo is also made by sewing on hand-cut felt, so each one is slightly different in shape. We've incorporated meticulous details, such as a lining, with the aim of creating "the most beautiful cap in the world."

For bottoms, denim is recommended. Rather than raw denim, I think pairing it with denim trousers that have been washed but still have a nice shape will give it a modern look.

The balance between the dressy and casual feel of the Hashimoto pants and the matching cap made from the same material as the jacket is exquisite! J.PRESS GREEN creates clothes from a new perspective, but is it still very popular with the younger generation?

People in their 40s and older often tell us they've been wanting an item like this, and it's also popular with younger people who prefer a traditional style. We want everyone to feel comfortable trying on a blazer, so we're actually offering it for around 55,000 to 60,000 yen, which is 20,000 to 30,000 yen cheaper than the market price. We're particular about the tailoring and materials, so as a maker, I think it's a great deal (laughs).

Introducing J.PRESS & SON'S style for wearing blazers.

Kurono Minoru: Recently, we've seen an increase in blazer purchases. Just at our store, sales have tripled since last year, and it feels like they're finally becoming established. I think one reason is that the need for suits and matching sets has decreased due to the impact of COVID-19, so blazers, which can be mixed and matched more easily, are being featured more.

Hashimoto, what are some recommended ways to style a blazer, which offers a lot of freedom in how you wear it?


At our store, Kurono suggests pairing jackets with caps, and this has become quite popular over the past two years. I personally love caps and wear one all the time. All the other staff members like them too, and you could say that the combination of a jacket and a cap is our house style. I think you can enjoy blazers even more if you broaden the range to include casual styles such as blazer and cap, or blazer and sweatpants. We also want to convey the message that it's okay to wear them more casually.


Hashimoto: I agree, blazers and caps seem to go well together. The mindset is classic, but the styling is frank and modern. And this shop seems to be the one that started that trend.

Kurono: In the future of "J.PRESS GREEN," I would like to propose ideas that will challenge the traditional style. This label has been well-received by new customers, so I hope that we can widely convey the traditional mindset through "J.PRESS GREEN."

Inoue, I look forward to continuing to work with you.

◾️ Read related articles on "J. Press Green"
► J.PRESS | The third collection from "J.PRESS GREEK," a label exclusive Isetan Shinjuku Store, Men's Building is now on sale! New caps are also available.

• Filming cooperation
  
  BEAMS PLUS Yurakucho
  1F, Shin-Yurakucho Building, 1-12-1 Yurakucho, Chiyoda-ku, Tokyo
  TEL 03-5220-3151
  Opening hours: 11:00 AM to 8:00 PM
  
  J.PRESS & SON'S AOYAMA
  Office Aoyama 1F, 3-10-2 Kita-Aoyama, Minato-ku, Tokyo
  TEL 03-6805-0315
  Tuesday, Wednesday, Thursday, Friday: 12:00 PM - 8:00 PM; Saturday, Sunday: 11:00 AM - 7:00 PM; Closed on Mondays (open on public holidays)