As part of the Isetan-wide event "Watch Collectors Week," from July 13th (Wed) to 19th (Tue), 2022, there will be a rare opportunity to see the full lineup of Grand Seiko watches at The Stage on the 1st floor of the main building. Ahead of this major event, a meeting was held where watch buyers discussed the appeal of Grand Seiko with young employees of Mitsukoshi Isetan. With technical prowess that will satisfy even watch enthusiasts and a design that appeals to younger generations, we delve into the allure of Grand Seiko, a watch you'll want to choose now more than ever.

Roundtable participants

Shota Ueno

Isetan Shinjuku Store Watch Buyer

Since 2009, he has been in charge of the jewelry and watch sector. As a buyer, he has been actively involved in discovering domestic and international brands, negotiating with manufacturers, and visiting actual production sites, which has fostered a particularly strong passion for Grand Seiko.

Ayumi Matsuoka

ISETAN MEN'S Media Manager

I design and direct communication strategies for Isetan Men's through various media.
I prioritize timeless designs and details in my watches. Because I have slender wrists, I prefer wearing boy-sized watches.

Ariyumi Toguri

Mitsukoshi Nihonbashi Main Store, Jewelry and Accessories Buyer

A jewelry and accessories buyer with a jewelry coordinator certification. She prefers mixing materials for her wrist accessories. She enjoys wearing her favorite watches and accessories without worrying about color combinations.

Grand Seiko: A brand you think you know, but don't really.

Grand Seiko is a watch brand that Japan proudly presents to the world. Founded in 1960 as a high-quality, domestically produced mechanical watch, it is currently manufactured at the "Shinshu Toki no Takumi Kobo" in Shiojiri City, Nagano Prefecture, and the "Grand Seiko Studio Shizukuishi" in Shizukuishi Town, Iwate Prefecture. It enjoys a high reputation worldwide, and is particularly recognized overseas as a leading luxury watch brand representing Japan.

However, in Japan, especially among younger generations, the image of Grand Seiko is often described as "I know the brand name, but I don't really know much about it." In fact, the first thing a young employee at Isetan Shinjuku said was, "Is that a watch for my father's generation?"

The truth about Grand Seiko that resonates with younger generations

"Among business professionals, it's recognized as a reliable watch because of its simple design, accuracy, and the fact that it embodies Japan's meticulous craftsmanship. On the other hand, to be honest, we often hear from sales staff that it hasn't really reached the younger generation. It seems to have more of an image as a watch for adults or people in conservative professions."

This is according to watch buyer Ueno. When he visits overseas watch exhibitions, the Grand Seiko booth is comparable to that of high-end Swiss and German watch brands that are also popular in Japan. Overseas watch buyers and journalists have praised it as a watch that is serious and conservative, yet achieves true value through innovative design, and possesses a modest quality that doesn't overtly flaunt its high performance—a truly "Japanese" watch. Knowing this sentiment overseas, Ueno seems to find the domestic evaluation of Grand Seiko frustrating.

"But, to be honest, I get the impression that it's something my father's generation wears. There aren't many men in my generation who wear Grand Seiko, and I feel like it doesn't really overlap with my own generation."

According to Matsuoka, the digital expert at ISETAN MEN'S, Grand Seiko is an item he hasn't really taken seriously before.

"The Grand Seiko logo shines brightly, which is quite striking, but I can't really think of any iconic model names. However, the brand image isn't bad. If a man were wearing one, I think it would be a brand that you could confidently introduce to your family, giving off a positive impression."
This is according to jewelry buyer Toguri. When buyer Ueno heard him say, "I can't think of an iconic model," she couldn't help but take a look.

"Indeed, Grand Seiko intentionally avoids creating iconic models. While upholding a consistent design philosophy, they seem to have made it their brand identity to deliberately refrain from creating any standout designs. I think their true intention is to compete based on the quality of their products."

There are many long-established watch brands and manufactures overseas that have been around for well over 100 years, but Grand Seiko has also achieved a high standard, especially in terms of precision, throughout its approximately 60-year history since its launch.

Switzerland, the mecca of mechanical watchmaking, has a rigorous precision standard called the "Chronometer Testing Standard." However, in 1966, Grand Seiko established its own unique precision standard, the "Grand Seiko Standard." In 1998, it established the "New Grand Seiko Standard," which is even stricter than the Swiss "Chronometer Testing Standard." This is the basis of Grand Seiko's precision and reliability. By clearing these stringent standards, Grand Seiko has established its unshakeable position today.

However, it's also true that this trend hasn't really caught on with younger people who want to enjoy watches as accessories. Even the "Spring Drive" drive system, a hybrid mechanical and quartz mechanism that Grand Seiko boasts to the world, which is highly coveted by watch enthusiasts, doesn't seem to resonate much with the younger generation.

"I'm the same way, but I think that for women, a cute design is what matters when it comes to watches. Mechanical watches require maintenance, so a battery-powered quartz watch is more reassuring. But recently, there are more and more women who like mechanics, so I think it might appeal to those who want to focus on the inner workings," says Toguri.

Matsuoka also prefers design over mechanics when it comes to watches. He says that a watch that can be easily changed to match one's outfit is more practical.

"Many men are interested in talking about machines, so I think there are people who would be interested, but not so much around me (laughs). In the last few years, as attention has shifted from overseas to domestic, I've become interested in domestic brands of clothing, accessories, and miscellaneous goods. In that sense, I think Japanese watch brands are a good fit for this trend."

Indeed, in recent years, fashion trends have been shifting from a dominance of foreign brands to new values of the new normal era, and domestic brands are being re-evaluated across generations. This trend seems to be a desirable one for watches as well.

Choose by function or by design SBGA401SBGC244

Ueno: Now, let's take a look at some of Grand Seiko's current models. If you take another look, I think you'll realize there are so many attractive watches. First, let me introduce the SBGA401 and SBGC244. Isetan Shinjuku is a Grand Seiko boutique, and we've been carrying boutique-exclusive models since this year.
When they say it's exclusive to Matsuoka , it makes me curious.

Which part of Toguri is limited?
A common feature of these boutique-exclusive models is the use of pink gold as an accent color. The SBGA401 has a simple design with three hands and a date calendar. The SBGC244 is a chronograph, so it is equipped with a stopwatch function and a GMT hand to display a second time zone. Its stainless steel case also makes it easy to handle.
Matsuoka: When I first saw it, I thought it was big, but when I held it in my hand, it didn't feel that big. Lately, there's been a trend towards large-diameter watches, hasn't there? I have thin wrists, so large-diameter watches don't suit me.
In terms of overall balance, I think the design is well-balanced. Furthermore, the weight distribution between the watch and bracelet has been carefully considered, resulting in a stable and comfortable fit.
The pink gold hands are a nice accent. Recently, 18K pink gold has become very popular in jewelry because it blends well with the skin, and I think it looks cute even on men. The fact that it's not the entire case, but just a small part of the hands and crown, is what makes it so effective.

The case is stainless steel, but the subtle use of color in the dial and hands gives it a fresh look. For men, as a small accessory, a style with just a touch of color, rather than something completely basic, might be a good choice.
Even in Toguri , do you use chronograph stopwatches or GMT functions? You have a smartphone, after all...
Ueno : Actually, when we conduct surveys, we find that people don't use the functions of their watches very often. There are quite a few people who don't even bother to read the time. Nevertheless, I think that the desire to have functionality is one of the values associated with watches.
Matsuoka : I think watches are really like accessories. If the criteria for that accessory is not the value of the precious metal, but its ability to function as a machine, then I can understand the desire to have a good one.

A classic design that suits any style: SBGE285 SBGJ235

The Ueno GBGE285 features a simple light gray dial with a GMT hand, but it's a model that adopts Grand Seiko's new design language, known as the "Evolution 9 style." From the highly legible dial finish to the dignified case form, and even the shape and texture of the bracelet, elements born from Japanese aesthetics are incorporated.
Toguri: Are these newly established settings?
Ueno : No, this design is based on the "Seiko Style" design grammar that Grand Seiko has continuously passed down, and it's an updated version of that. It's something that can be passed down as the most beautiful form of Grand Seiko, and by extension, of Japanese watches.

The fact that the Matsuoka bracelet uses two types of metal finishes, polished and matte, shows a real attention to detail. The watch itself also feels meticulously crafted, with three-dimensional indices and a slender bezel.
Toguri : Ah, this might be a little light?
The case of the Ueno watch uses bright titanium. Normally, stainless steel or gold in white or yellow is used, right? I think that using a titanium case in a luxury watch has created a new standard of value.
Recently , more and more women are wearing men's watches, and this one is so lightweight that it seems like it would be easy to wear without feeling self-conscious. I think any man who wears this watch must have some kind of discerning taste. It seems like you could connect with people who share your interests. I think people who know the background of how things are made have a good eye.
Matsuoka: Of all the watches here, this is my favorite in terms of design. It's simple, yet packed with thoughtful details. Including my own personal satisfaction, it's a watch that allows me to find my own values and really lifts my spirits when I choose something that I can be happy with.

The SBGJ235 with the Ueno Blue dial also features a GMT hand. While this isn't part of the Evolution 9 collection, it's a model that inherits Grand Seiko's traditional design. The blue face color is the "Iwateyama pattern" dial, which represents the slopes of Mount Iwate, and is said to be modeled after "winter mountains faintly illuminated by the moonlight reflecting off the snow." The Shiojiri workshop produces Spring Drive watches, while the Shizukuishi workshop produces mechanical watches, and it's typical of Grand Seiko to incorporate the characteristics of each region into their designs.

It's wonderful how it feels like you're experiencing the nature surrounding Toguri Workshop.
Located at the foot of Mount Iwate, Ueno Workshop is dedicated to preserving the surrounding environment. It boasts a remarkably beautiful workshop, unlike anything seen anywhere else in the world, including a wooden cleanroom designed by Kengo Kuma, a leading Japanese architect known for designing the Olympic Stadium.
Matsuoka: Hearing that, it sounds like it has great experiential value. The blue dial is easy to match with a navy jacket or a light blue shirt, and I think it goes well with everything from suits to jeans.

Ladies' watch STGK007 that we also recommend for men

I have the impression that Toguri Grand Seiko watches are for men, but they also have women's watches, right?
Ueno: The model I brought today is a women's model with a 27.8mm diameter, but personally, I would recommend it to men as well.
Matsuoka: In the past, there were men's watches with a diameter of under 30mm; is that the kind of image you have in mind?
Ueno: Right now, it's quite difficult to find men's earrings under 30mm in diameter. This one has 11 diamonds, and since diamond jewelry and accessories are currently popular among men, I think it would look elegant if you incorporated it into your wardrobe like a small diamond bracelet.
It seems like it could be given a genderless image.

Just making the Matsuoka case a little smaller makes it look very stylish. I think there are quite a few men who usually wear watches around 30mm in diameter, so I don't think it would be a problem for them.
You can even share it with your partner, Toguri . Plus, the back of the case is transparent. The design, which allows you to see the movement of the mechanism, is unusual for a women's watch, so it might appeal to women who love machines.
Ueno: Even at this size, the Grand Seiko design language is faithfully followed, so there's no compromise. This is a watch that makes you proud that a traditional yet future-proof design has been born from a Japanese product. Matsuoka-san, it suits you very well.

Matsuoka: This size fits my wrist perfectly. I tried it on and I really like it.
Toguri: I don't think it's very common for men to pick up women's watches, but seeing Matsuoka-san actually wearing one, it looks really natural on him.
I don't think there are many opportunities to try on women's watches in Ueno . I would especially recommend it to those with delicate wrists or those who think they have thin wrists.

The SBGW283 dress watch embodies both old and new philosophies.

Finally , I'd like to introduce the SBGW283. This model became available at Isetan Shinjuku this spring. It features a stainless steel case, showcasing the high level of craftsmanship that has allowed it to be polished to such a beautiful finish. With its leather strap, it can be said to be a top-of-the-line model in terms of luxury and sophistication.
Matsuoka: For a moment, if you told me it was white gold, I might not even know (laughs).
Toguri : Wow, the case is really beautiful. The light blue dial is also lovely.

Recently , colored dials have become a popular trend in watches. In addition to blue, various companies are releasing watches with green and other colors, but I think this light blue is a color that you don't see very often elsewhere.
The Toguri belt is navy blue. My watch also has a pink leather strap, and I think women often like to experiment with different strap colors for their watches.
I'd like men in Ueno to have fun with belt colors too. Besides color, I'd also like them to adjust the size so the clasp is centered. There are so many people wearing watches with belts that don't fit properly.
Does the curved crystal of the Matsuoka watch evoke the image of older watches? It gives it a somewhat classic feel.
The reason the glass surface of the Ueno watch is curved is that in the past, flat glass was prone to breaking due to its lack of durability, so the curve was intentionally designed to increase its strength. Modern sapphire glass is much stronger, so even flat glass is less likely to break. By deliberately using a curved surface, a classic design is achieved.
Toguri is amazing. He's so particular about his work. I think Grand Seiko might be the choice you arrive at after being completely meticulous about your craft. From now on, my perception of men who wear them is likely to change.
Matsuoka: I also had some preconceived notions about Grand Seiko, but after hearing about it, I think it matches well with modern fashion, and in fact, it's a watch that could be a viable option now more than ever.
With overseas travel finally becoming easier again, Grand Seiko has a brand power that can easily rival international brands. It's a watch that every Japanese person should own.

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Text: Yasuyuki Ikeda

Photo: Yusuke Iida

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