Find the perfect pair of slacks for your body type! — The "Pants Selection Zone" on the 5th floor of Isetan Shinjuku Store, Men's Building always stocks over 300 types of trousers, mainly from Italian brands. Each brand has its own individuality and aesthetic, and while the differences may be subtle, the fit and appearance are definitely different.
At Isetan Shinjuku Store, Men's Building we've picked out popular representative models from the three top slacks brands: INCOTEX , PT Torino, and GTA , and thoroughly compared their "no-pleat" and "single-pleat" versions. Using examples of fittings for standard body types as a reference, find the brand and model that best suits your ideal!

Choosing comfortable pants? You can't go wrong if you keep these three leading Italian pants brands in mind!

1. INCOTEX / Incotex

INCOTEX is a trouser-specializing brand founded in Venice, Italy in 1951. As they declare, "We aim to elevate trousers to the centerpiece of your wardrobe," their trousers are characterized by their exceptional comfort, backed by traditional tailoring techniques. In addition to a wide selection of materials, they continuously refine their washing and dyeing processes, developing fabrics that always reflect the times. This balance of comfort and contemporary style has earned them high praise worldwide.

2. PTTORINO / PT Torino

PT Torino was founded in Turin, Italy in 2008 as a specialist trouser manufacturer based on the concept that "trousers are the most important item in men's clothing." They expanded the diversity of trousers by offering a wide variety of designs drawn from diverse design resources, challenging the previously all-classic world of dress trousers. PT Torino trousers, with their beautiful silhouettes, are a testament to their pride in creating the ultimate trousers.

3. GTA / GTA

GTA is an original brand of Moda, a trouser factory founded in 1955 in Selvazzano, Italy. Using carefully selected high-quality fabrics and employing advanced techniques used in bespoke dress trousers, GTA pursues meticulous craftsmanship and beauty. It is renowned for its exceptional silhouette and supreme comfort.

Even slight differences can make a difference in the silhouette. A thorough comparison of leading "no-pleat" models!

Silhouette is crucial when choosing slacks. Even a 1cm difference in measurements can significantly impact the silhouette. We'll thoroughly explain the key points by comparing the measurements and fit of each model. We compared popular, classic "no-pleat" models from each brand.

*【Model】Height 180cm, Weight 62kg, average build / Wearing size "46" for all items / Model inseam 76cm for all measurements.

1. INCOTEX Model "35"

[Measurement Data]
Waist 80cm, Hips 94cm, Rise 21cm, Thigh 30.5cm, Knee width 20.5cm, Hem width 17.5cm (for inseam 76cm)

Features of the INCOTEX model "35"
INCOTEX 's classic best-selling model is the "35," a slim-fit, no-pleat style. This model has been modified to flatten the Japanese physique, making it a flattering fit for many Japanese body types. It features a compact waist, the shallowest rise among the models compared here, and an excellent pattern with a straight center crease, resulting in a slim, straight silhouette.

2. PT Torino Model "SUPERSLIM FIT"

[Measurement Data]
Waist 80cm, Hips 96cm, Rise 22cm, Thigh 30cm, Knee width 21cm, Hem width 17cm (for inseam 76cm)

Features of the PT Torino model "SUPERSLIM FIT"
These pants have a low rise and a slim silhouette from the thigh to the hem. Despite their slim fit, there's a little extra room in the hip area, making your hips appear lifted and shapely. The silhouette makes your legs look long and slender, making them a best-selling model with constant repeat purchases.

3. GTA Model "800"

[Measurement Data]
Waist 80cm, Hips 95cm, Rise 23cm, Thigh 30cm, Knee width 21cm, Hem width 17.5cm (for inseam 76cm)

Features of GTA model "800"
The "800" is a signature model of GTA . It's a well-proportioned slim-fit model with no pleats, giving a clean look around the waist. Sartorial details are evident throughout, such as the pleats on the inside of the waistband. Among the models compared here, it has the deepest rise and is slightly more relaxed overall compared to the models from the two brands mentioned above.

Keep these three points in mind when choosing a "no-pleat" dress to find the perfect model for you!

POINT 1: Hips

The hips are one of the most important parts of a pant's silhouette. The best fit will vary depending on the shape of your hips. Compared to the other two brands, INCOTEX is designed for the flatter hips common among Japanese people, resulting in a more compact look. In contrast, the other two models have a little more room in the hip area, making them a better fit for those with more muscular hips. Carefully comparing the balance between the hip and thigh measurements is key to finding your favorite pair of slacks.

POINT 2: Rise

The rise of the trousers directly affects comfort; even with the same waist size, a higher rise tends to create a slightly more relaxed fit around the waist. Among these three brands, GTA 's "800" has the highest rise. Additionally, a higher rise can create a visual effect of making your legs appear longer.

POINT 3: Balance from hip to thigh to knee to hem width

Looking at the pants from the three brands from the side, it's clear that even though they're all categorized as "no-pleat slim fit," the balance from the hips to the thighs, knees, and hem width is distinctly different for each.

For example, PT Torino's "SUPERSLIM FIT" has a clearly defined boundary between the hips and thighs, creating a silhouette that clearly shows the curve of the hips, and the slimness is maintained all the way to the hem. Also, GTA 's "800" does not dig into the end of the hips, and the flow down to the thighs is natural.

Video Explanation! [Choosing Pants] How to Choose Pants Based on Body Type (Standard Build, Slim Build, Slightly Larger Build)

A comparison of classic "single-pleat" models. Even models with the same details have their own unique characteristics.

I compared popular "1-pleat" classic models from INCOTEX , PT Torino, and GTA . Even with the same details, the overall silhouette differs depending on the brand.

*All models are wearing size "46" / Model inseam is 76cm.

1. Incotex Model "31"

[Measurement Data]
Waist 80cm, Hips 94cm, Rise 21cm, Thigh 30cm, Knee width 21cm, Hem width 17.5cm (for inseam 76cm)

Features of the INCOTEX model "31"
Starting with the Spring/Summer 2021 collection, the standard single-pleat model has been standardized to the "31 style." While slim-fitting, it offers ample room in the thighs and features a tapered silhouette towards the hem. The straight-down center crease creates a clean and streamlined leg line.

2. PT Torino Model "NEW GENTLEMAN FIT"

[Measurement Data]
Waist 80cm, Hips 98cm, Rise 25cm, Thigh 30.5cm, Knee width 21.5cm, Hem width 18.5cm (for inseam 76cm)

Features of the PT Torino model "NEW GENTLEMAN FIT"

These trousers feature a single pleat, a slightly high rise, and a relaxed fit through the thighs, but the tapered leg below the knee creates a modern silhouette. Classic details such as fog pockets are also a key feature. The "NEW GENTLEMAN FIT," exclusive to Mitsukoshi Isetan, features a slightly looser tapered fit compared to the previous slim silhouette. The high rise also creates a leg-lengthening effect.

3. GTA model "JACOPO"

[Measurement Data]
Waist 80cm, Hips 95cm, Rise 23cm, Thigh 33cm, Knee width 21.5cm, Hem width 18cm (for inseam 76cm)

Features of the GTA model "JACOPO"
The "JACOPO" features a basic tapered silhouette. With a single pleat, it offers ample room around the waist and thighs, making it comfortable even for those who dislike extremely slim fits. The longer fly and the beautifully straight crease line are also striking features. While the "JACOPO" has the widest thighs of the models introduced here, the knee and hem widths are both made to be moderately slim, so it doesn't feel bulky despite its width.

The key to the "one-pleat" silhouette is the balance between the hips, the pleat, and the width from the thigh to the hem!

Just like when comparing the "no-pleat" models, the hip area is an important point when choosing slacks, so we've also compared these three models up close. Use these subtle differences as a reference to find the model that suits you best.

POINT 1: Hips

INCOTEX 's "31" has a single pleat, yet it has a compact finish from the waist to the thighs, giving it a clean look. On the other hand, with PT Torino's "NEW GENTLEMAN FIT" and GTA 's "JACOPO," if there is room in both the hips and thighs, only the highest part of the hips will fit, which conversely cleverly hides the body's silhouette and creates a beautiful tapered silhouette without the fabric being taken up from the hips to the knees.

POINT 2: Pleats

Pleated trousers add visual interest to the front, making them a great choice even for those who usually prefer flat trousers. These three models feature a well-defined taper and a slim overall fit, giving them a modern look despite the pleats. Furthermore, the higher rise of the models creates a leg-lengthening effect.

POINT 3: Balance from hip to thigh to knee to hem width

INCOTEX 's "31" has an overall slim silhouette. PT Torino's "NEW GENTLEMAN FIT" has a little room from the hips to the thighs, but the area from the thighs down is neat and tidy. GTA 's "JACOPO" is loose up to the thighs and tapers from the knees down, making its tapered silhouette very clear.

Video Explanation! [Pants Measurement] Ask a Measurement Professional! How to Measure Your Pants by Yourself?

Staff from Isetan Shinjuku Store, Men's Building explain how to choose pants that fit you, including how to take measurements and how to select pants that suit your body type. Use this as a reference when choosing pants!

Tailored Clothing Instagram is here

Text: Makoto Kajii
Photograph: Tatsuya Ozawa

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*Masks are removed only during filming.
＊All prices include tax.
＊The information in this article is current as of the time of publication. Product information may be revised or changed without notice.

For inquiries, please contact Isetan Shinjuku Store, Men's Building 5th Floor, Tailored Clothing. Tel: 03-3352-1111 (Main number). For email inquiries, please click here.