"N.HOOLYWOOD REBEL FABRIC BY UNDERCOVER" is a special capsule collection that fuses N.HOOLYWOOD's latest designs with original fabrics faithfully reproduced from UNDERCOVER 's past collections. The second installment of this collection will be available for pre-sale from September 15th Isetan Shinjuku Store, Men's Building and the Mitsukoshi Isetan online store. We spoke with N.HOOLYWOOD designer Daisuke Obana about this project, which could not have been realized without the relationship between Daisuke Obana and Jun Takahashi, two of Japan's leading "brother and brother" figures, and about the thoughts behind this season's "Rebel Camo" fabric.

View N. Hollywood products at the Mitsukoshi Isetan online store.

The ultimate reproduction that truly captured my feelings.

"N.HOOLYWOOD REBEL FABRIC BY UNDERCOVER" was first unveiled at N.HOOLYWOOD's Spring/Summer 2020 collection, which was presented in New York (and in June 2019). Mr. Obana himself traveled to London in the UK and Edinburgh in Scotland, and expressed the various inspirations he gained along the way. In a collection that "takes inspiration from elements that have been broken down and transformed by our predecessors from the formal manners and rules of British traditional wear, and updates them in a modern way," these pieces were extremely important, gracing the opening and defining the impression of the collection.

This capsule collection, comprised entirely of "brushed-up" basic items such as trench coats, Chesterfield coats, tailored jackets, and trousers, uses a reproduction of the tartan check fabric that UNDERCOVER used in their Fall/Winter 2018 collection. The fabric tags were also specially designed by Jun Takahashi.


"I first met Jun Takahashi (Jonio) in 2008 when (stylist) Tsuyoshi Noguchi called upon me to help launch a select shop. He's a senior designer and a legend to me, but I was so immersed in the world of vintage clothing during the heyday of Ura-Harajuku that I thought he was a very distant figure from a very different world. But from our first meeting until now, he's always been the same person, always speaking honestly and slowly, with a unique kindness. I can't possibly describe it all here, but...in our relationship, Jonio is like the second son and I'm like the youngest (laughs)."



Archives, fabrics, and a rebellious spirit. A collaboration connected by these fundamental aspects of craftsmanship cannot be achieved through a business-first relationship that starts overnight. It would be utterly impossible without mutual understanding and trust in each other's creations.

"I like collaborations where the elements both parties need are clearly demonstrated in a meaningful way. 'N.HOOLYWOOD REBEL FABRIC BY UNDERCOVER' is a capsule collection that reproduces materials from UNDERCOVER 's history as faithfully as possible, and presents them as a new expression through the N.HOOLYWOOD filter (design). So rather than calling it a 'collaboration,' it might be more accurate to say that it's the 'ultimate reproduction,' where Jun Takahashi understood my vision and expressed it in a new form."

Accelerating manufacturing in the post-COVID era: Building trust across all directions

Mr. Obana explains that the origin of "N.HOOLYWOOD REBEL FABRIC BY UNDERCOVER" was "the decision to deliberately focus on 'British' culture, which is a relatively small part of what I've cultivated, for N.HOOLYWOOD's Spring/Summer 2020 collection, and that was the starting point for everything."

"While exploring creative possibilities, I was struggling to express tartan checks in innovative colors and patterns. That's when I thought I could ask Jun Takahashi, who is deeply familiar with British culture, for advice, and I contacted him. My initial thought was that if there were any leftover (surplus) tartan check fabrics from the past, I would like to reuse them to create a special piece with my own design. However, there were hardly any leftovers, so instead, I asked him to 'let me create a complete reproduction of the fabric.' That idea grew and eventually took shape as the 'N.HOOLYWOOD REBEL FABRIC BY UNDERCOVER' project."

It was thanks to the mutual trust between the two parties that this project was conducted entirely through remote communication, without any in-person meetings. This was before the physical barriers that many people face today arose.

"We were able to create this capsule collection using only phone calls and text messages (laughs). In a way, I think this creation was carried out in a style that foreshadowed this era of the pandemic. If I may say so myself, I think it's proof that we have earned the trust of everyone involved."

I want people to remember and feel something through "history."

"During the COVID-19 pandemic, N.HOOLYWOOD stopped presenting runway shows, which significantly changed our approach to expression and thinking. As a result of focusing more on unexpectedness than on a specific theme, we arrived at this product, 'N.HOOLYWOOD REBEL FABRIC BY UNDERCOVER.' For this second installment, we've picked the camouflage pattern from the Spring/Summer 1996 season, which is extremely important when looking back at UNDERCOVER 's history."

The fabric, which combines a British and traditional check pattern with camouflage, still looks fresh today. In fact, when combined with N. Hollywood's design, it has become fresh, powerful, and catchy.


"In the process of discussing with Jun Takahashi, we adopted the idea of incorporating the fabric name, 'REBEL CAMO,' into the textile pattern. That's the biggest update from the original archives. However, the fabric itself was faithfully reproduced after acquiring a valuable original from that time at auction, disassembling it, and thoroughly researching its composition. And once again, we created this without ever meeting him in person (laughs)."



Fashion has always presented new aesthetics and values. Unearthing excellent textiles from the past and shedding light on their intrinsic value again through new presentations is perfectly suited to the present era. This is truly a case of learning from the past to create something new—the "N.HOOLYWOOD REBEL FABRIC BY UNDERCOVER" initiative, which revives historical heritage, will give us new surprises and excitement.

"Even if you use the same fabric, it's natural that the result will be completely different if the design changes. But that's precisely why I wanted to create and express a chemical reaction between myself and Jun Takahashi—that was the main reason I started this project. Ten years after UNDERCOVER 's debut, N. Hollywood debuted. I want to deliver textiles like 'REBEL CAMO,' which I want to pass on to future generations, to those who owned the original back then, to N. Hollywood fans, and to the younger generation. I would be happy if many different people could remember this history and feel something from it."

What's intriguing is the future development of "N.HOOLYWOOD REBEL FABRIC BY UNDERCOVER," but Obana told us that they have "absolutely no plan."

"I haven't thought about future prospects at all. I feel that the moment I start thinking about future prospects, the depth of this project will be lost."

Finally, let me share a message from Jun Takahashi, a close friend whom Daisuke Obana considers like an older brother.



"I'm always soothed by his consistently gentle and easygoing personality. I feel that this is reflected in his creative work as well. Collaboration is about creating something on a different level that you can't achieve on your own. And mutual respect is key. I hope you'll continue creating with your own unique stance, just as you have been doing." (Jun Takahashi)

View N. Hollywood products at the Mitsukoshi Isetan online store.

Text: Junya Hasegawa (america)