A leather brand for the "new lifestyle" launched by the magazine 'Begin'
With the widespread use of smartphones that can do anything and the advancement of cashless payments, the role of wallets has changed, and with the promotion of teleworking, people are working from home while doing housework, and new lifestyles are definitely becoming ingrained in our lives. As a result, the significance of leather goods is also changing, and there is a growing demand for leather items with new designs and specifications. "But when it comes to leather quality, we want to stick to the traditional high quality!" For such discerning leather lovers, TOKYO LEATHER CLUB has been launched.
View the Tokyo Leather Club product list.
We plan and create leather items for modern people in collaboration with our readers.
Currently, Tokyo Leather Club (TLC) is a hot topic among leather enthusiasts. TLC is a leather goods specialty brand launched on "Begin Market," an e-commerce site operated by the magazine "Begin." Launched last autumn, it currently only offers two products, wallets and belts, but its items, made with high-quality leather, have already become popular, with some products selling out.For example, the already sold-out "Gacha Belt" (with plans for restocking) was created as a belt to be worn with the suit sets that have become a staple in recent years. This narrow belt, made from Horween's Chromexcel leather with a stamp guaranteeing its quality, is designed with the length set to allow the tip to hang down. When in business attire, it can be securely threaded through the loop, while in casual settings, the tip can be left to hang down for a relaxed look. Furthermore, it uses a magnetic buckle from Germany's Fidlock company, and the satisfying "click!" sound when fastening and unfastening it is very pleasant.
The tri-fold wallet comes in two types: one using Horween's Chromexcel leather and the other using domestically produced cordovan. The Horween model is available in the popular "No. 8 color (burgundy)," a selection that will make any leather or shoe enthusiast drool. This wallet has a detachable coin case and card case from the bill compartment, allowing you to carry only the essentials when going out for a short distance or going out hands-free. This design, which is in line with the modern age where smart payments are commonplace, is a typical TLC idea that creates leather items suitable for the urban life of modern people.
The brand theme of <TLC> is "A sincere community for leather lovers." Along with planning leather products that are in line with the new era, they release leather products that meet the standards of Begin readers, using the finest leather and employing expert craftsmanship. Furthermore, they are also working to gather feedback from readers saying, "I want an item like this," and make it a reality.
This February, Isetan Shinjuku Store, Men's Building , will host a pop-up event in collaboration with TLC, showcasing their new market bag and other items from their previous collections. We had the opportunity to speak with those involved when they visited the factory in Tokyo for the final checks on the market bag, and here's our report.
The discerning 'Begin' magazine teams up with a long-established leather factory.
"Many of the readers of 'Begin' are discerning, and in particular, many have a strong, almost fetishistic, dedication to leather products. In order to create products that would satisfy such people, regardless of profitability, we collaborated with organizer Mr. Onodera and SADO, a leading leather factory in Tokyo."
These are the words of Takuya Mitsuki, editor-in-chief of Begin magazine. He himself is quite the connoisseur. Items that Mitsuki focuses on are said to be guaranteed to sell out, and he is the person who has created many legends. He has extensive experience covering leather factories both in Japan and abroad, and his eye for good quality is undeniable. The leather factory that caught his attention is "SADO," located in downtown Tokyo. Founded in 1951, SADO has been an OEM manufacturer of leather belts for many select shops and brands, and for this TLC project, they are also venturing into leather goods other than belts. We spoke with Toshiro Kono, who is in charge of this project.
Toshiro Kono of SADO Co., Ltd. Committed to Made-in-Japan craftsmanship, he joined SADO Co., Ltd. in 2007. He conveys the quality of leather and the spirit of craftsmanship through his products.
"Up until now, our company has mainly produced belts and various other small leather goods. With TLC, we are involved in the planning of products other than belts, as they represent a new era of leather products unlike anything we've produced before. We are participating in this project by fully utilizing the technical expertise we have cultivated over many years."
The person who brought Mitsuki and Kono together was Takehito Onodera of Delta, who himself plans and sells leather brands. He's a familiar face at 'Begin,' a magazine that only features carefully selected products.
Takehito Onodera, President and CEO of Delta Co., Ltd., handles domestic and international apparel brands that capture the spirit of the times, such as Maple, Salvage Public, and Uber.
"Our connection with SADO began when we collaborated with them at an event some time ago. For the launch of TLC, we felt it was essential to have the cooperation of a factory that truly understands leather and possesses exceptional technical skills, so we reached out to them. While SADO is mainly known for leather belts, their craftsmanship in small leather goods is also of a very high standard."
The office is filled with small leather samples, and indeed, each one is a perfect example of meticulous handiwork, from the quality of the leather to the stitching and edge polishing. I learned that while their factory is located in Iida City, Nagano Prefecture, the finishing touches and other detailed work are done in the workshop on the second floor of their headquarters, where skilled craftsmen showcase their skills.
After receiving permission to go upstairs, I found about ten craftsmen intently engaged in their work. They were using a machine to brand leather facing the north-facing window, imprinting the TLC logo. "It's difficult to get the pressure just right. Too much pressure and it burns, too little and it's smudged." They adjust the pressure depending on the type of leather, relying entirely on the craftsman's intuition. In this process without a manual, I witnessed a glimpse of true craftsmanship.
Introducing a market bag made with carefully selected materials and produced after five sample runs!
The idea for this market bag project began with an email sent by Uematsu, the bag buyer at ISETAN MEN'S , to Onodera.
Yoshio Uematsu is the bag buyer at Isetan Shinjuku Store, Men's Building . He has been involved in buying since 2017, guided by the motto "customer-centric product development."
"Since the pandemic, we've seen a significant change in the demand for men's bags. In particular, we've been getting a lot of inquiries from customers about eco-bags and market bags, which have become incredibly popular in the last few years. Many men seem to feel a little embarrassed using foldable eco-bags, so we consulted with Mr. Onodera to answer the question of whether there are any shopping bags that can be used even for quick trips to the convenience store," (Uematsu).
Around that time, Onodera-san was also thinking about designing a market bag for TLC. She consulted Kono-san about whether it would be possible to adapt a nylon eco-bag she owned using leather. Initially, they planned a floppy shopping bag that could be folded by thinning the leather, but it wasn't durable enough. So they added a lining and folded the edges to make it double-layered, but then it became too heavy and difficult to carry around. So they decided to use shoe leather and make a sturdy market bag, and after five sample productions, they finally created a product they were satisfied with.
"For the leather, we chose Superbuck from Charles F. Stead, a British company famous for Clarks' Desert Boots. I once visited their factory for an interview, and while generally, when tanning leather, they stretch the fibers with an iron to make it as wide as possible, Stead doesn't do that. That's why the leather is dense and firm. That's why the opening of the Desert Boots stays upright and doesn't droop. The short-napped suede is resistant to scratches and doesn't fade easily, so this texture lasts a long time. We chose beige and black because we wanted to choose colors that are characteristic of Clarks' Desert Boots," (Mitsuki).
A 2mm thick superbag is sewn into the shape of a market bag with raw edges. Using a single piece of material ensures strength on the inside as well, and the bag maintains its shape well. The absence of seams at the corners gives it a rounded shape, making it casual and easy for everyday use.
A detailed report will be published in the April issue of 'Begin' magazine, which goes on sale Tuesday, February 16th, and sales will also begin on the same day at Begin Market and Mitsukoshi Isetan's e-commerce site. Then, from Wednesday, February 24th, a pop-up store will be held on the first basement floor Isetan Shinjuku Store, Men's Building . This is the only opportunity to buy items that have only been available online in person. If you want to see and touch the items before you buy, don't miss this opportunity!
View the Tokyo Leather Club product list.
- February 24, 2021 (Wednesday) - March 9, 2021 (Tuesday)
- Isetan Shinjuku Store, Men's Building , B1F, Bags
Photograph: Hiroyuki Matsuzaki
Text: Yasuyuki Ikeda
*All prices include tax.
*The information in this article is current as of the time of publication. Product information may be revised or changed without notice.
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