From the bag brand PELLE MORBIDA comes "Hawser," a new exclusive line that builds upon their previous design concepts while creating a higher-end worldview. It's being released exclusively at Isetan. This time, we spoke with the designer from bulldog Co., Ltd., who is in charge of the bag designs. "We expanded on the image of the ships at Pelle Morbida, and synchronized it with the brand's attitude and message as its essence," he said. What is the "idea and final point of design" from someone who is well-versed in the techniques and production of bag design, saying that "design is a living thing"?

What is Pelle Morbida...?
PELLE MORBIDA is a bag brand created for adults who enjoy sea voyages, known as the "ideal form of travel," and for mature adults who seek a "quality of life." It offers elegant and high-quality items that you'll want to take with you on a luxurious cruise.

The pursuit of "elegance" and "thinking of" our customers

"Pelle Morbida's products are designed with the question, 'What is elegance?' in mind. We strive for designs that are not flashy, that are inherently beautiful, timeless yet reflect the spirit of the times, and that will continue to sell and be loved for a long time. In particular, we carefully check the proportions by hand, and we intend to design with pure dedication and attention to detail."



"The reason we have separate names (lines) for each product is because we envision the customers who will be carrying them. We create each bag with the customer in mind, considering how it looks when standing, how it looks when carried, its convenience, and their preferences. We are constantly thinking about the 'next' product while also reviewing the balance of products in each line that we have so far."

The unpretentious design is born from drawings that evoke a "tactile sensation."

"When I'm designing bags and SLGs (small leather goods) for Pelle Morbida, if I want to create a certain 'feel,' I start by sketching by hand. I ultimately use design software to finish the design, but I'm more comfortable capturing the overall feel, such as softness and hardness, by tracing it with my hands and eyes. I find it easier to express my ideas with a pencil than using computer software. People might laugh and say I'm still using analog methods, but the important thing is that I'm 'drawing with a sense of touch.' Especially recently, I often imagine something in my head and then 'draw to confirm it.'"



"Normally, when people say 'fashion design,' they think of clothing design as the main focus, and bags and hats are considered minor items. But even now, when I'm working, I think deeply about 'what is bag design?' and return to the idea that there's a deeper reason behind every object. Furthermore, I keep in mind that there are incredibly talented designers out there who are even better than me... Designers are creatures that are compared to others and chosen based on that, so constant learning is necessary, and my curiosity grows year by year. I'm in my late thirties now, but there's still so much I don't know about the world, and even just with bags, there's so much I don't know. I always try to gather information and learn as much as I can."

These bags are crafted with knowledge gained through an insatiable thirst for knowledge. While they don't say much, you can feel the experience and knowledge condensed into each and every bag.

Two classic models designed with the importance of "looking beautiful when held by a person" in mind.

I. "Capitano" Briefcase

The long-selling briefcase from "Capitano" was born from the desire to "carefully craft products and create designs with a beautiful presence." Because the previous series in this line was relatively basic, I think we were able to successfully "add a unique touch = express individuality." While retaining the brand's signature "wave pattern" and other easily recognizable elements, we finished it beautifully with original embossed leather.



"Once, a professional bag maker asked me, 'Pelle Morbida bags look difficult to make, how do you make them?' As a designer, I consciously and subtly incorporate difficult techniques. I think that also sends the message, 'These are designs that anyone can appreciate, but they can't be easily imitated.'"

II. "Maiden Voyage" Tote Bag

"The 'Maiden Voyage' horizontal tote bag is also a long-selling model, but when designing it, we start from the premise that 'Capitano and Maiden Voyage appeal to different types of customers.' Those who prefer 'Maiden Voyage' tend to like a more sophisticated style, so we pay close attention to the leather texture, design, and even the smallest details."


"Also, since it's a tote bag, we consider the balance when the handles are slung over the shoulder and how it looks when held in the hand. Furthermore, because it can be used for business, leisure, and travel, we carefully consider and incorporate practicality and functionality in actual use. After completing the design, we sometimes reflect on 'why we like this and why we want it.'"

A new flap tote bag born from a story unique to Pelle Morbida.

"The exclusive line "Hawser," newly introduced this season, expands upon Pelle Morbida's concept of "ships." The line name "Hawser" refers to the ropes used to tie ships to mooring posts (iron stakes) on docks and piers, and this motif is expressed on the new handles using a mesh embossing. The silver parts used as a single accent detail are inspired by the mooring posts."

"The sailors who attach the ship's ropes (hawsers) to the bollards and release them when the ship departs are called 'linemen,' and they play a crucial role that involves many lives. When I learned this, I thought, ' PELLE MORBIDA 's linemen are like bag craftsmen,' and I've synchronized that as an essence of the brand's attitude and message."


"The main body of the bag is made of soft, supple Italian leather, giving it a gentle feel. The handles are embossed with a mesh pattern, adding warmth and providing a practical function by preventing slippage when held or carried on the shoulder."




In recent years, Pelle Morbida bags have been gaining increasing support from female customers at the bag corner on the first basement floor of Isetan Shinjuku Store, Men's Building . The reason why these bags are chosen as bags that will be cherished for years to come is because of Pelle Morbida's pursuit of "essential quality," and the meticulous attention to detail in how they look and feel when carried by customers. We encourage you to add one to your own style this spring.





Photograph: Tatsuya Ozawa
Text: Makoto Kajii

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