In recent years, more and more people have become captivated by the allure of vintage footwear. We asked Katsufumi Tokunaga of Soma, a world-renowned authority on vintage sneakers, and Yusuke Tajima of Safari, a specialist in leather shoes, to discuss its appeal.

The most popular choice is, as expected, the "Air Jordan 1".

Tajima : This is my first time visiting Soma, and it's a utopia for rare sneakers (laughs). To be honest, I'm overwhelmed. I think specialty stores for vintage sneakers are quite rare even on a global scale, aren't they?

Tokunaga : That's right. We're connected with enthusiasts all over the world, but I think there are very few specialty stores that deal primarily in sneakers from the 70s and 80s. For me, Safari has the image of being overwhelmingly large in scale as a vintage clothing store. You exhibited at the ISETAN Shoe Fair last year, right?


Tajima : Yes. We didn't have quite enough stock in the store, so we reached out to collectors and gathered some special items. I thought that many of Isetan's customers might be hesitant about vintage items, but they were more receptive than I expected. I'm sure there are many people who are interested in vintage sneakers as well.

Tokunaga : I feel a little pressure, but I'm also looking forward to it. What got you into the vintage clothing industry, Tajima-san?

Tajima : Initially, I joined the company because I liked American casual style and wanted to pursue the world of vintage clothing. That's when I encountered Alden leather shoes, and I became engrossed in the world of high-end shoes. I actually prefer sneakers, and I owned hundreds of pairs.

Tokunaga : So we were originally kindred spirits (laughs). Mr. Tajima's third store mainly sells dress clothing, but what percentage of that is leather shoes?

Tajima : Leather shoes are such an important item that it's no exaggeration to say they're what attract customers to our store. In recent years, business attire has become more casual, so slip-ons and Paraboot shoes have become bestsellers. How did you get into this industry, Tokunaga-san?

Tokunaga : I originally worked as a gardener in Canada.

Tajima : Huh? (laughs)


Tokunaga : When I returned to Japan in 2003, I went around to vintage clothing stores because I love vintage clothes, but there were hardly any stores that carried the vintage sneakers I loved so much... I was a complete amateur, but I thought I'd just do it myself.

Tajima : What kind of sneakers were you buying back then?

Tokunaga : The focus is mainly on items from the 70s and 80s, which is the same as our current inventory. In the 90s, there were a lot of reissues for sale, so we bought quite a lot of new items as well.

Tajima : How did you develop your purchasing routes?

Tokunaga : I had lived abroad for a long time, so I had connections and a network of sneaker enthusiasts. I made lists of things I was looking for in English, French, and German, and it was like amateurs asking other amateurs for help.

Tajima : That's a very innovative way to purchase items!

Tokunaga : Now I have a network of about 400 people, and I buy something from them every day. Safari, you also buy from individual customers in Japan, right?

Tajima : We buy directly from customers without going through dealers, so in principle it's the same. What are some of the most popular items right now?

Tokunaga : The Air Jordan 1 is still the most popular. At one point you could buy them for around 40,000 yen, but now they start at around 130,000 yen.

Tajima : So the prices are going up.


Tokunaga : Our store is strong in classic styles, and for Adidas, the "Superstar" and for Converse, the 70s "Chuck Taylor" remain consistently popular. We prioritize stocking items in good condition, but recently, with the increase in repair shops, I think it's fun to wear shoes while having them repaired, as it fosters a sense of attachment. I'd also like to hear about Safari's best-selling items.

Tajima : J.M. Weston, Alden, and Paraboot are overwhelmingly strong, followed by Crockett & Jones, Church's, and Edward Green... Loafers have been gaining popularity recently.

Tokunaga : What kind of customers do you have?

Tajima : It's surprisingly broad, mainly consisting of people in their 20s to 50s.

Tokunaga : I see. We don't have many young customers here. What models do you recommend to customers who are new to vintage watches?

Tajima : I still think the three brands I mentioned earlier are good choices. You'll definitely experience their quality, and you can enjoy wearing them for a long time. As for sneakers, I suppose Converse All-Stars are a sure bet?


Tokunaga : That's right. In particular, the Chuck Taylors from the 70s have a different charm from the current models, so I hope you'll pick them up and experience the difference at the shoe fair. Also, I personally like Pony. They're cheaply made, but they don't break and they have a lot of interesting designs. What models are you personally eyeing, Tajima-san?

Tajima : I've been searching for a pair of Florsheim cordovan cobra vamp shoes for a long time. However, I just can't find a good pair in my size...

Tokunaga : Is Alden's whiskey really that expensive?

Tajima : When we showcased our tanker boots at the last shoe fair, they were priced at 300,000 yen, but they sold out immediately. We have several pairs available this time as well, so please look forward to them.

Tokunaga : Amazing! What about Florsheim, which also uses cordovan leather?

Tajima : These are deadstock and cost around 100,000 yen. They are really good shoes, and compared to Alden, they are a great deal and I recommend them. I think using good quality items for a long time is in line with the times, so I hope you will find a pair that you can enjoy for many years to come at the ISETAN Shoe Fair.

Tokunaga : While not quite as durable as leather shoes, many sneakers from the 70s and 80s can be worn for a long time, so I hope you'll give them a try. I'm looking forward to meeting fellow shoe lovers at the shoe fair!






Photograph: Satoko Imazu
Text: Kaijiro Masuda