[Feature] A thorough comparison of popular models from the top 3 pant brands favored by adults.
Pants trends change rapidly, and in 2020, "functional materials" will take center stage.
Looking back at the evolution of men's style in recent years, one notices a significant difference between tops and bottoms. The latest fashion top silhouettes are oversized or loose with dropped shoulders, while in classic style, the unstructured tailored jacket has become commonplace, establishing a light and soft form without shoulder pads or interlining. While there may be temporary trends in silhouettes and details, it's fair to say that there hasn't been a major change in the items themselves.
However, bottoms are a different story. For this item where silhouette is paramount, the trend shifted from the leg-flattering straight cut that began three to four years ago to tapered lines with waist pleats. It was also noteworthy that "beltless pants," "nine-tenths length" pants that show off the ankles, and "jogger pants" that bring sportswear designs into dressy wear have become standard in men's style. More recently, with the emergence of evolved pants, new pants brands are appearing almost every season.
In addition to the evolution of these pants trends, the latest trend is the use of functional materials in pants. At first glance, they may look like ordinary wool pants, but they are made with a blend of synthetic fibers or jersey material, providing features such as stretch, water repellency, wrinkle resistance, and home washability, as well as comfortable wear and easy care. This trend is spreading to Italian pants brands, from emerging brands to established factory brands, and is influencing men's fashion as a whole.
The key points to consider when choosing are the material, which can be used for both casual and formal occasions, and the trendy silhouette.
As work styles diversify, business attire is becoming more casual. Furthermore, the trend of "casual" wear, such as throwing on a suit on weekends, is blurring the lines between on- and off-duty styles. In this context, it's understandable that versatile, classic trousers would become popular if they were made with materials that retain their original appearance but offer added functionality, allowing them to be worn as before while also being more comfortable.
For example, even classic gray wool slacks, while feeling like 100% wool, can actually have increased elasticity due to a blend of polyurethane, or have water-repellent and wrinkle-resistant properties added through nano-level processing of the yarn. This would alleviate the bending and straightening of the knees when sitting and reduce tightness around the waist, making them more comfortable than before. Rain and mud splashes could be easily brushed off, and wrinkle-resistant slacks would be less of a concern during long journeys on airplanes or when folded and stored in a suitcase.
The silhouettes have also evolved from previous styles, establishing a modern look. While a straight silhouette with a tight waist and no pleats remains a staple in business attire, silhouettes that offer more room around the waist with pleats and taper from the knee down, as well as wide, fashionable silhouettes that extend to the hem, have also gained popularity. Even in classic styles, wearing pants at an ankle-length hem has become popular, and the styling of pairing jogger pants with a tailored jacket has become established. Classic trends change slowly, so this style is likely to remain mainstream for some time to come.
Check out the best-selling pants from these three major brands!
Many Italian trouser brands are also releasing models using functional materials. Therefore, we've taken a closer look at popular models from three major brands and examined their versatility. Even dressy and casual styles will be elevated by the use of these materials.
1. INCOTEX "35"
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- INCOTEX pants "35" 39,600 yen
■ Isetan Shinjuku Store, Men's Building 5th Floor = Men's Tailored Clothing
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Incotex has established an unshakeable position as the "king" of Italian leg-flattering trousers. This "35" model is a popular classic that has been modified to flatten the buttocks and is tailored to the Japanese physique.
A masterpiece for businessmen's navy jacket and gray slacks style, these trousers are available in a variety of materials that can be worn not only for formal occasions but also for casual wear. The inside of the waistband features a hakama-style tuck for a better fit, and the no-pleat design creates a smart, wrinkle-free back. The silhouette is slim and straight, but the slightly higher knee position creates a visually lengthening effect.
The medium gray material has a crisp, cool feel thanks to its tightly twisted yarn. While it looks like the traditional wool tropical fabric, the addition of 3% polyurethane provides stretch. Furthermore, if you choose the water-repellent and home-washable version, it could be a worthwhile replacement for your existing "Gresura" due to its easy care.
TAGLIATORE jacket 71,500 yen
Vanacole shirt 28,600 yen
Francesco Marino tie: 18,700 yen
■ Isetan Shinjuku Store, Men's Building 5th Floor = Men's Tailored Clothing
For a dressy look, a classic navy jacket is a must-have. Traditionally, loafers were paired with a jacket and trousers, but recently, as this is a more advanced dressy style that replaces a suit, lace-up, oxford-style straight-tip shoes are also a good choice. To make it even more fashionable this year, you could also add a colored shirt to bring some color into the V-zone.
■ Isetan Shinjuku Store, Men's Building 5th Floor = Men's Tailored Clothing
For a casual look, you might want to slightly shorten the hem. Pairing them with tassel loafers, showing off your ankles, and wearing them barefoot creates a sophisticated, adult casual style.
View INCOTEX products at the Mitsukoshi Isetan online store.
2. PT TORINO "GENTLEMAN FIT"
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- PT Torino pants "GENTLEMAN FIT" 38,500 yen
- ■ Isetan Shinjuku Store, Men's Building 5th Floor = Men's Tailored Clothing
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This spring, the brand, which unified its PT01 and denim line PT05, and was reborn as PT Torino, has the popular "GENTLEMAN FIT" as its flagship model. Characterized by its slightly high rise and long fly, the waist is flared with pleats, the thighs fall softly, and the tapered silhouette that narrows below the knee creates a modern bottom line. The front coin pocket also gives it the feel of classic trousers.
These versatile black slacks, often called "black slacks," are a staple item that works well for both formal and casual occasions. Not only are they in line with the current monochrome trend, but they will also remain a classic choice for the future. This particular model, a special order from Isetan Men's, features a functional nylon x urethane blend. It's thin and has a crisp feel, yet it has the elegant look of wool. When you touch it, you'll find it has excellent elasticity, is wrinkle-resistant, and highly water-repellent, making it suitable for both formal and active casual styles.
LARDINI jacket 55,000 yen
Settefili Cashmere Knit 39,600 yen
■ Isetan Shinjuku Store, Men's Building 5th Floor = Men's Tailored Clothing
For formal occasions, it's best to wear them with a jacket in a just-right length, like proper slacks. The crisp fabric creates a sharp silhouette, and they pair well with leather shoes, ensuring they don't detract from the office dress code.
Aimone leather shirt 154,000 yen
Lafarbo T-shirt 17,600 yen
■ Isetan Shinjuku Store, Men's Building 5th Floor = Men's Tailored Clothing
For a casual look, just like with the Incotex shown above, a length that shows off your ankles with bare feet and sneakers is a light and breezy choice.
View PT Torino products at the Mitsukoshi Isetan online store.
3. GTA "GIORGIO"

- GTA pants "GIORGIO" 44,000 yen
- ■ Isetan Shinjuku Store, Men's Building 5th Floor = Men's Tailored Clothing
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While it now has many followers, "GIORGIO" was the pioneer in creating the jogging pant silhouette by using ribbed knit at the hem of slacks.
The drawstring is incorporated while retaining the belt loops, and the front features pleats, allowing for a comfortable fit without worrying about creases. The ribbed hem has elastic only at the back, creating a clean silhouette from the front and neutralizing the sporty feel.
These heather gray wool jersey pants are highly stretchy and resistant to stretching at the knees. While they have a sweatpants-like appearance, the lightweight jersey material makes them comfortable for spring and summer. The waistband is tailored like slacks, so they look great paired with a tailored jacket.
Zacco jacket 75,900 yen
■ Isetan Shinjuku Store, Men's Building 5th Floor = Men's Tailored Clothing
This tailored jacket styling became a huge trend at Pitti Uomo, and is now a staple in men's luxury sportswear.
Spaccaneapolis jacket 53,900 yen
■ Isetan Shinjuku Store, Men's Building 5th Floor = Men's Tailored Clothing
A casual shirt-jacket style can be elevated beyond just loungewear by pairing it with relaxed, slim-fitting sweatpants that flatter the legs. Its high versatility means you could easily take it off for jogging or futsal, making it a great choice for active adults who want a youthful and stylish look. This makes it popular with people of all ages.
View GTA products at the Mitsukoshi Isetan online store.
Photo: Natsuko Okada
Text: Yasuyuki Ikeda
*All prices include tax.
*Some items are available in limited quantities. We apologize if an item is out of stock.
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