With the casualization of business attire, fewer people are wearing suits, and it's now common to commute in sneakers. Younger generations are steadily moving away from leather shoes. However, precisely because of this trend, there are likely some who want to stand out by deliberately wearing leather shoes.

Therefore, ISETAN MEN'S researched the feet of millennials aged 25-34, born between the mid-1980s and mid-1990s, and commissioned talented shoemakers both domestically and internationally to create shoe lasts tailored to their feet. Thanks to the tireless efforts of men's shoe buyer Tabata, who himself is close to the millennial generation, 10 brands will be releasing the "Millennial Last" series this spring.

ISETAN MEN'S Store has jointly developed a new shoe last for millennials.

"Millennials have grown up wearing highly cushioned sneakers, so their foot shape is definitely different from previous generations. Specifically, they have splayed feet, low insteps, and small heels. In many cases, they don't fit the lasts of classic shoes made 20, 30, or even 50 years ago," says Tabata.

The "Millennial Last Series," launching on Wednesday, March 11th, is a collection that leverages the strengths of each collaborating manufacturer and brand while also focusing on comfort that suits the feet of younger generations. We actually invited millennial businessmen to try out the shoes, and here's a look at what happened.

Three millennials chose the shoes they actually want to wear.

• Millennial participants

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  Daisuke Yagyu

  I'm 26 years old and work for a major manufacturer. I love shoes, and recently bought a pair of J.M. Weston loafers overseas. I usually work indoors, but when I commute, I always wear a suit and tie, or a jacket and trousers with leather shoes.
  
  
  

  

  Hodaka Yoshigiwa

  I'm 26 years old and work for an IT/telecommunications company. On days when I'm working indoors, I sometimes wear chinos and sneakers, but on days when I'm out for system maintenance or sales, I wear a suit. When I'm in business attire, I love wearing SCOTCH GRAIN 's straight-tip oxford shoes, which go well with both suits and jackets.
  
  
  

  

  Hayato Kaneko

  Kaneko is 26 years old and works at an architectural design firm. Although the dress code at her workplace is flexible, she often wears all-purpose loafers because her work involves a wide range of activities, including sales, administrative tasks, and site visits. Her selection criteria include ease of maintenance and a neat appearance.

1. My favorite SCOTCH GRAIN shoes now fit my feet even better! (Yoshiki)

When she was a new employee, Ms. Yoshigiwa became interested in fashion and shoes because a senior colleague she respected was very stylish. Now in her late twenties, she has become more conscious of dressing like an adult, and often wears leather shoes even on her days off.

"When choosing shoes, I consider whether they match my outfit for the day. For work, whether I'm wearing a suit or a jacket and trousers, I think smart leather shoes are appropriate, so I always go for straight-tip oxfords. On my days off, I've been going to more shops and restaurants that I wouldn't feel comfortable in sneakers, so I pay more attention to my shoes. I want something that looks neat but is as comfortable as sneakers."

He usually wears SCOTCH GRAIN straight-tip shoes, so this time he chose a straight-tip shoe reborn with a millennial last, and a plain-toe oxford shoe from Barker, a long-established shoemaker in Northampton, England.

Tabata , do you usually use SCOTCH GRAIN ?
Yes, that's right. The balance between price and quality is good. Also, since they are genuine leather shoes, I like the cushioning I feel from the cork insole.
Tabata is a pioneer in incorporating the Goodyear welt construction method into domestic shoemaking, and is a very progressive and conscientious shoemaker, using resin materials for the midsole and internal shank. This time, they also worked diligently on developing the shoe last, going through many prototypes. How do you like them after trying them on?

• 
• SCOTCH GRAIN
• Shoes 39,600 yen

These look distinctly different from SCOTCH GRAIN I usually wear. The forefoot feels much better.
Tabata 's previous shoe last had a little extra room, so many people felt that the toe and heel areas were too large. With the Millennial Last, we've trimmed those areas to make it more compact. It looks sleeker than before, and you shouldn't experience any awkward creases that could hurt your feet.
The overall fit is certainly good, but the opening of the shoe seems to rub against the outer ankle.
Tabata : I see. It seems that Yoshikawa-san's ankles are positioned a little low. In this case, I think the problem can be solved by placing a "half-insole" in the arch and heel area of the foot.
That's really true, my ankles don't hurt with this.
Next, Tabata , please try on BARKER 's plain-toe oxford shoes.


These also fit really well. Even without an insole, my ankles don't rub against them.
Tabata: Many overseas shoemakers have a high outer opening, which can be painful for Japanese people as it rubs against the outer ankle bone. BARKER has improved this design for this shoe.
I've always wanted a pair of plain -toe oxford shoes, but I could never find one that fit my feet or that looked too clunky and round. These shoes are just the right amount of slender and make my feet look nice. The soles feel soft when I walk in them, probably because they're made of rubber.

• 
• BARKER
• Shoes 49,500 yen

Tabata Dainite soles are thin rubber soles manufactured by Harboro Rubber Company in the UK. They offer improved grip in rainy weather, making walking easier, while also not detracting from the shoe's appearance.
I've always admired shoes from overseas manufacturers, but I gave up on the idea because of the price and comfort. After all, spending over 5000 yen takes courage (laughs).
Tabata: These BARKER are priced under 50,000 yen, but with Brexit, British shoe prices are expected to rise in the future. Please consider them!

2. I found a pair of loafers that I can wear both casually and formally, and that fit my feet perfectly! (Kaneko)

Kaneko, who says she likes shoes with a rounded shape, whether leather or sneakers, favors loafers because they suit her personal style. She also finds loafers to be versatile enough to wear both on and off duty. Furthermore, because of her job, she needs shoes that she can wear without hesitation even if she suddenly has to go to a muddy or dusty site, and that are easy to care for. Therefore, she feels hesitant about wearing overly expensive shoes.

"I choose loafers over lace-up shoes because they're easier to care for. You don't need to meticulously maintain them; just wipe them with a tissue and give them a quick polish with a shoe polishing sponge, and they're perfectly fine for adult footwear. If I could make a personal preference, it would be nice if the leather was water-repellent. Also, I like to look a little taller (laughs), so shoes with a high heel would be great."

Tabata recommended Madras, which uses Gore-Tex in its lining, and Berwick, a Spanish shoe brand known for its excellent cost performance. He had them try on loafers from both brands and compare them.

• 
• madras
• Shoes 33,000 yen

Are Kaneko madras loafers water-resistant?
The inner lining of the boots uses Gore-Tex, providing waterproofing to prevent water from entering through the seams between the sole and upper, and breathability to prevent feet from getting sweaty. This is a technology used in outdoor shoes and is a popular feature at madras .
Kaneko : I completely understand the importance of putting so much effort into details that aren't visible, as I work in design myself. When I tried them on, they fit snugly, almost like sneakers. Plus, the heel is quite high, making me look a little taller.



The heels from Tabata Vibram are slightly higher and highly durable. The high heels give these loafers an elegant look.
The slender last of the Kaneko shoe is very feminine. However, if I had to choose, I prefer a slightly rounder, more voluminous style. These shoes would look good with suits, jackets, and dressy clothes, but I tend to wear more casual attire even in the office.
How about this Berwick for your field ? Its slightly rounded shape and casual look are on-trend. The leather is from Ilcea, an Italian company, giving it a luxurious feel, yet the price is in the 30,000 yen range.

• 
• Berwick
• Shoes 33,000 yen

Kaneko, this doesn't look like it costs around 30,000 yen. The leather is so good, why is it priced like this?
Tabata Berwick is one of Spain's leading shoe manufacturers, so we can leverage economies of scale when sourcing leather.
Kaneko : I see, that makes sense. The rubber sole would also be useful on construction sites and such.


Tabata: This is an original button sole jointly developed by Vibram and Berwick. It's lightweight and offers excellent grip. It balances design and functionality, and I think it will satisfy those seeking good value for money.
Kaneko Berwick shoes seem like they'd fit right into my everyday style. madras are impeccable both functionally and aesthetically, so I'd really like to try them on. But first, I need to learn a bit more about dressy clothing.

3. This collection even satisfies me, a shoe connoisseur! (Yagyu)

Mr. Yagyu considers fashion starting with shoes, and his hobby on weekends is polishing shoes. He even owns a hand wrench (water pitcher) that allows him to dispense small amounts of water at a time to give the toes a high-shine (mirror-like) finish, proving he is a true shoe lover. Although his workplace is lenient with dress codes, he wears leather shoes to work every day because he wants to look sharp in his suit.

"My criteria for choosing shoes is that they must be shoes I can wear for a long time. So I want to be particular about the manufacturing method and the quality of the leather. I want them to be made with the Goodyear welt method, made of high-quality leather that develops character the more you wear and polish them, and I also choose leather soles, but ideally I want shoes that are comfortable to wear for long periods of time," he said, indicating that his demands for shoes are quite high. He already owns a variety of shoes, but he is very interested in single monk straps, which he does not yet own, so Tabata has already prepared a pair of straight-tip shoes from Otsuka and a pair of single monk strap shoes from Shetland Fox.

The straight-tip shoes from Yagyu Otsuka fit my feet perfectly in terms of width. My feet are a bit narrow, so there's often extra space on either side of my feet inside shoes, but these fit snugly without any gaps.
When choosing work boots for farming , the first thing you should do is select them based on length, but there are many other things to check, such as whether the width is right and whether the ball joint area fits properly.

• 
• Otsuka
• Shoes 39,600 yen

I used to use insoles to compensate for any gaps in the Yagyu-ko boots, but it feels great when they fit perfectly from the start. They give you a feeling of having your arch (instep) lifted.
The waist of these farming boots is tapered, so they fit really well.
The fact that these shoes don't wrinkle when I walk is proof that they fit my feet perfectly. They feel like they're molded to my feet, giving me a natural propulsion that makes my feet move forward effortlessly.
Tabata , we also have another pair of Shetland Fox single monk strap shoes available. I hear you're looking for single monk strap shoes right now?

• 
• Shetland Fox
• Shoes 42,900 yen

I saw a pair of single monk strap shoes at another shop in Yagyu and thought they looked really cool. I wear straight-tip shoes with suits, but single monk straps seem like they would also look good with a jacket and trousers.
Tabata Shetland Fox is a premium model from REGAL . It has a reputation for reliable shoemaking that is not influenced by trends.
The Yagyu shoes are a perfect fit, and the moderately rounded toe shape looks really cool.


Tabata focused on creating a slightly more fashionable last shape. I think it would be easy to pair with trendy wide-leg pants.
Yagyu, these look like they'd be perfect not only for going to work, but also for wearing on weekends!

I finally found my favorite pair of shoes, and I want to wear them for a long time with proper shoe care.

Tabata: Everyone gathered here today is 26 years old. I'm pleased to hear that you all have the habit of wearing leather shoes, as I'm in charge of men's footwear.
Nowadays , with many companies allowing employees to come to work without a tie, and casual shoes gaining acceptance, I feel a strong desire to wear proper leather shoes.
Kaneko: I sometimes work on-site, so I'm not particularly attached to leather shoes, but I've been wearing them more often because they suit my fashion style. Even with sneakers, I often choose black leather ones.
Yagyu: I really love shoes, so I often spend my days off browsing shoe websites. I even watched a video on YouTube about mirror polishing and ended up buying a finger cloth and hand wrap.


Wow, that's impressive! It's really professional. Shoes can last 5 or 10 years if you take good care of them and replace the soles.
Regarding how to care for my auspicious plant, there's so much conflicting information out there that I'm actually not sure what to do.
Kaneko: I'm always doing things haphazardly, so I'd like to know the correct way to do it.
Shall we have Mr. Tabata Ryugyu tell us about it? (laughs)
Yagyu: I'm just an amateur, but first I apply Two Face Lotion to a cloth and wipe away the dirt from the whole face.

• 
• Boot Black
• Two Face Plus Lotion 1,320 yen
• View Products

Just like with women's makeup, it's not just dust and mud that's the problem ; it's better to remove the previous makeup (cream) before starting the work again.
Yagyu then applies nourishing cream to the leather.
It's not Kaneko Shoe Polish, is it?
Tabata Color is best applied to areas where the leather is damaged or the edges are worn down, but for regular maintenance, it's best to simply apply a colorless nourishing cream.
When applying Yagyu plaster , you spread it evenly with a brush and then wipe it off with a cloth. But I only actually do this kind of work about once a month.
Depending on how often you wear your work boots, you can polish them once a month or once every two to three months. However, before putting them on, it's a good idea to quickly polish the entire shoe with the same brush you used for shoe polishing. This will allow the cream on the bristles to be applied thinly.
What kind of brush is good for a good-looking brush?

• 
• Boot Black
• Horsehair brush 9,900 yen
• Boar bristle brush 8,800 yen

It's good to have two types of brushes: a soft horsehair brush for removing dirt from fields and a firmer boar bristle brush for applying cream. The brushes I've brought here today are from Columbus. Columbus is a Japanese manufacturer of shoe care products, and their top brand is Boot Black . Boot Black is of such high quality that it's officially used by a certain Italian luxury shoe brand.
Is it okay to start with just two types of Kaneko brushes, a cleaner, and a nourishing cream?
For the Tabata color, please choose one that matches your shoes. Another thing you might need is shoe trees.

• 
• COLUMBUS
• Shoe trees 7,700 yen
• To commemorate the launch of the Millennial Last, the Men's Shoes section on the first basement floor of Isetan Shinjuku Store, Men's Building is offering the above shoe trees (recommended models for the Millennial Last) at a 30% discount from the listed price until Tuesday, March 31st.

Kaneko: I've been wondering about that. I thought there was no point in putting shoe trees in cheap shoes, but is that not the case?
High-end Yagyu shoes almost always come with shoe trees, don't they?
To lower the selling price of Tabata shoes, it's common practice to omit shoe trees from the start. In fact, this Millennial Last series also doesn't come with shoe trees. Even in that case, if you provide your own, the lifespan of your shoes will be significantly extended.
I'm concerned about the tension on Kaneko 's shoe trees. Shoe trees with overly strong springs can be counterproductive, right?
If your shoes are under so much tension that they change size, it's almost always because the shoe tree isn't the right size for your shoes. Also, I think you should avoid using plastic shoe trees with leather shoes. Wooden , unpainted shoe trees allow the leather to breathe, so the sweat absorbed by the shoes dries faster.


On a lucky day, I leave the shoes I've worn all day in the entryway overnight, and the next day I put shoe trees in them and put them away in the shoe closet.
Since the feet of people who work in fields sweat the most, shoes absorb a lot of sweat. To dry them as quickly as possible, there is data showing that it dries faster if you put shoe trees in them immediately after taking them off and leave them out, rather than leaving them out as they are.
Yagyu, I didn't know that either. From today, I'll put shoe trees in as soon as I get home.
Kaneko, I'll buy some shoe trees on my way home too.
I think Yoshisai leather products, such as bags, wallets, and shoes, look their best when they've been used and developed a nice patina, so I'm going to make sure to take good care of my shoes from now on.
Tabata shoes are an item that appeals to men because of the process of breaking them in and caring for them to make them uniquely their own. We hope that more people will rediscover the appeal of leather shoes with our millennial last.