Did you know that modern functional materials have evolved and developed by pursuing the functionality of natural wool? Today, there are many materials that possess high functionality comparable to wool, but wool originally had a variety of functions such as elasticity, water repellency, coolness, odor resistance, and antibacterial properties, making it actually one of the highest-performing fibers for everyday wear.

This spring, ISETAN MEN'S will be featuring T-shirts made from wool, a natural and functional material. The project was conceived by Mitsuboshi Woolen Mills in Bishu, the sacred land of Japan's wool textile industry. The planning for the T-shirts, which will use Australian merino wool and be entirely manufactured in Bishu, from spinning and twisting to dyeing, knitting, and sewing, began three years ago.

T-shirts made from natural, functional wool, produced in Bishu.

"Wouldn't it be comfortable to have a wool T-shirt?" This was the idea that Shingo Iwata, president of Mitsuboshi Keito, realized last summer on the crowdfunding platform "Makuake." The "T-shirt that makes 23 hours comfortable" has been a success, raising more than eight times its initial target of 1 million yen.


"Wool is certainly functional, but its thick fibers can sometimes irritate the skin. Furthermore, wool's unique property of shrinking when washed requires processing with various chemicals, which also requires consideration for the global environment. To solve these challenges one by one, we were able to combine the experience and wisdom of the factories and craftsmen in Bishu."

Having worked for trading companies and consulting firms in Tokyo, Mr. Iwata inherited his father's company. Born and raised in Bishu, he is dedicated to the development of his hometown, including organizing the "Tweed Run," which is held in cities around the world such as London and Florence, in Bishu-Hashima. The catchphrase, "A T-shirt that makes you comfortable for 23 hours," reflects the determination of this young successor to provide high-quality comfort whether you're at work, in your private life, sleeping, or awake, except when you're undressed, such as in the bath or sauna.

We want to continue to protect the traditions and technical skills of Owari.

Mitsuboshi Wool is a leading wool textile manufacturer in Bishu, highly trusted by many apparel companies both domestically and internationally. Bishu is a rare region in the world where small weaving workshops still operate old-fashioned shuttle looms, allowing for the weaving of traditional, richly textured wool textiles. As a result, it enjoys the absolute trust of high-end tailors in Japan as well as luxury fashion houses overseas.









However, the local area is currently facing problems such as a lack of successors, labor shortages, and price competition from overseas products. Iwata is also working to support local businesses by ordering fabrics from craftsmen who can operate old-fashioned looms and by sending technicians to weaving factories run by elderly couples.

The project starts with dyeing the yarn.

The yarn used for the wool T-shirts is sourced from Australia, a country that consistently produces high-quality merino wool. The process begins with dyeing the extremely fine Super 140 merino wool, with the cooperation of Sunfine, a major local spinning company. The colors are achieved by mixing multiple fibers to create a unique top color.

"At the prototype stage, we tried dyeing the fabric after it was finished, but we decided that a heathered look was better, so we decided to use top-dyed yarn. Normally, Sunfine uses raw wool up to Super 120, but we made a special request to use Super 140, which is even softer to the touch. Furthermore, to prevent shrinkage after washing, the yarn is treated to make it less prone to pilling and to prevent shrinkage after washing. This treatment is also done after the fabric is woven, resulting in a wool fabric that can be washed in a washing machine."


The wool T-shirt fabric is not woven, but rather a stretchy knit called smooth fabric. The yarn is knitted into T-shirt fabric by the knitting company, Nagara Knit. Here, skilled craftsmen use circular knitting machines to produce the fabric in a tubular shape. By adjusting the gauge and stitch density (how tightly the stitches are knitted) of this knit, they have pursued a balance that is both stretchy and durable.








"We meticulously considered every detail of the prototype, from the size of the crew neck and the angle of the curve to whether to use ribbing for the edges or attach piping made of a different fabric. I actually wore it for 2-3 days on my Shinkansen commutes to and from Tokyo for business meetings and on overnight business trips, putting myself on the line to test things like whether it wrinkled and how well it resisted odors (laughs)."

Wool T-shirts that can be custom-ordered in 102 different sizes.

The resulting wool T-shirt is an upgrade from the previous Makuake version, both in terms of material and construction. It comes in two neck styles, crew neck and V-neck, and five colors: ivory white, light gray, olive ash, dark navy, and deep black. However, the most noteworthy aspect is that it's made to order with custom sizing options.

The system used during the Makuake campaign allows users to choose sizes in both the vertical and horizontal directions. Last time, users could choose from three vertical sizes (S, M, L) and three horizontal sizes, allowing larger individuals to wear it in a tight, compact fit by choosing a horizontal M and vertical L, or smaller individuals to wear it loosely with dropped shoulders by choosing a horizontal L and vertical S. Currently, the base size has been expanded to four sizes, including XL (S is available in short, medium, and long lengths), further increasing the size variations.


"Japanese wool boasts some of the highest quality in the world. Many world-renowned luxury brands use Japanese-made wool fabrics, but only a select few know this. For this wool T-shirt, we collaborated with companies and factories in Bishu for every step of the production process. We've brought together the technical expertise cultivated over many years in Bishu to process the delicate wool material so that it can be used for everyday wear. With this project, we hope to revitalize the Bishu region and take a step towards passing on Japanese manufacturing techniques to the next generation."