Tomoyasu Tabata, the men's shoe buyer on the first basement floor of Isetan Shinjuku Store, Men's Building , has focused on Berwick, a Spanish brand that combines craftsmanship and technology, as the Spring/Summer 2020 season kicks off. This spring, the brand is finally launching at ISETAN MEN'S and Tabata will explain the brand's "highlights" from a buyer's perspective, along with introducing special items.

Berwick leather shoes, originating in Spain, are manufactured entirely in a state-of-the-art factory.

As lifestyles, including work styles, diversify, the need for leather shoes as an alternative to sneakers is increasing. In particular, "leather shoes with a design that can be worn both at work and on weekends" are something that all generations are looking for. Focusing on "design and functionality," ISETAN MEN'S has collaborated with Berwick, founded in 1991, to develop a new original last (shoe mold) that fits Japanese feet. They are launching the "Millennial Last."

Located in Almansa, in southeastern Spain famous for its wine and olive production, Berwick's factory is a state-of-the-art facility situated on a vast plot of land, employing efficient and rational manufacturing methods. Almansa is known as a thriving shoemaking region with many hardworking workers, and Berwick's appeal lies in its exceptional cost-performance ratio, made possible by its integrated production process within the factory, from cutting and sewing the uppers to sole production and component assembly, all achieved through the procurement of high-quality materials and supplies in large quantities.




I was particularly surprised to learn that they even manufacture the soles themselves in-house, using leather supplied by Rendenbach, a German tannery that provides leather for high-end shoes. This time, ISETAN MEN'S will also be carrying models that use Rendenbach soles, which are said to be the strongest leather soles ever made, known for their durability and wear resistance.

It fully satisfies the requirements of "design and functionality" while being priced in the 30,000 yen range.

What's noteworthy about Berwick's designs is the "chunky" feel, exemplified by the round toe with a voluminous sole and toe, which follows American and French casual styles, as well as their popular lineup of coin loafers and tassel loafers.

In terms of functionality, Berwick and Vibram have teamed up to develop an original lightweight rubber sole specifically for Japanese users. This sole combines lightness with flexibility, cushioning, and durability, making it ideal for Japan's unpredictable climate and road conditions.



Furthermore, after thoroughly researching the narrow, thin, and small heels of men in their 20s and 30s, we collaborated with Berwick to develop an original last, the "Millennial Last," supervised by ISETAN MEN'S , based on the Japanese foot shape. This last provides ample support for the arch of the foot and prevents heel slippage, ensuring a comfortable fit that is easy for young men to wear.

Specifically, the key features are a wider ball joint (the widest part of the foot), a narrower waist and heel area, and a lower fit to prevent contact with the outer ankle bone.



This collection is perfect for anyone who has avoided leather shoes in the past because they couldn't find a balance between design and comfort. It's also ideal for those with small feet, small heels, or ankle pain, as well as those who want to wear leather shoes with a feel closer to sneakers.

Cordovan shoes available for under 40,000 yen are now on sale in limited quantities.

To celebrate the launch of Berwick, ISETAN MEN'S is offering several special items.

One of the collection features two models in burgundy: a plain-toe and a tassel loafer, both using high-quality Argentinian cordovan for the upper and Rendenbach leather soles. There is only one pair of each size available (sizes 7, 7.5, and 8), but they come with shoe trees and are offered at the incredible price of 44,000 yen .



Another option is "Royce Cordovan (cowhide)," a new material developed to achieve a texture and color similar to cordovan. This one is priced at 33,000 yen and comes with shoe trees. It features a Goodyear welt construction and a Rendenbach leather sole.



And finally, we have a Japan-exclusive model using the millennial last, developed in collaboration with Berwick. We have prepared four models—straight tip, plain toe, coin loafer, and tassel loafer—using a lightweight and non-slip Vibram sole for urban businessmen who do a lot of walking.

Could Berwick be the savior for men in their 20s who are reluctant to wear leather shoes?

Authentic dress shoes you can enjoy for 30,000 yen

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Mukouda: For people of our generation, a price point of 30,000 yen (excluding tax) for leather shoes is incredibly welcome. Having a lineup of authentic imported dress shoes, from classic designs to loafers that can be worn casually, really expands the options when choosing leather shoes.
Taniguchi: To be honest, if I'm going to spend 30,000 yen on leather shoes, I want to be able to wear them both for work and casual occasions. We're hearing more and more of that kind of feedback in the sales area every year.



Mukoda : Tassel loafers can be worn casually too, and they're versatile enough to be worn with everything from dressy to off-duty styles. Black is especially easy to wear. They're not just shoes you wear to work, but rather leather shoes that expand your styling options.
Taniguchi Berwick shoes have that unique imported charm, offer great value for money, and truly embody the appeal of leather shoes. With this level of quality, they make a great entry-level imported shoe, and I would recommend them to job seekers and new graduates.


The "Millennial Last," perfected through research into Japanese feet.

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Both Ms. Mukouda and I have narrow feet, so finding shoes is a real struggle for us.
Taniguchi: I have a complex about my small feet, and I'm troubled because ready-made shoes don't fit me. My feet are slender and my heels are small, so when I wear loafers, my heels almost always slip out, and I can't really wear shoes that I like.
Mukouda: My feet are also narrow, but they're quite long, so the way I choose my size differs considerably between sneakers and leather shoes. How did you find wearing Berwick's "Millennial Last"?


Taniguchi : The heel area, which is my biggest concern, is nicely fitted and the arch of the foot is lifted, so it's less tiring to walk in. I recommend Vibram soles for people who walk a lot. How about you, Mukai?
The width, waist, and heel are in an ideal balance, making these shoes especially great for Japanese people whose heels tend to slip out. Our generation has narrow feet and thin feet, so when we wear wide, high-arched Japanese brand shoes, our toes often hit the front and hurt. But I can confidently recommend these "Millennial Last" shoes. Plus, the light sole is a nice bonus.
Taniguchi's shoes are highly recommended as they combine both stylish design and practicality!


Photo: Tatsuya Ozawa
Text: Makoto Kajii

*All prices include tax.

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Isetan Shinjuku Store, Men's Building , B1F = Men's Shoes
03-3352-1111 (main representative)