2019.03.24 update

[Feature] The true value of Sanyo Yamacho, the driving force behind the resurgence of Japanese-made shoes.


SANYO YAMACHO has no designers. While this wasn't particularly unusual even at their Northampton factory until recently, I'm not aware of any other well-known brands that still produce goods without relying on designers.

Such a stance is permissible because it draws inspiration from 150 years of modern shoe history. Straight tips, brogues, monks, loafers... They are truly authentic, without a trace of ostentation. Yet, they possess a dignified presence that makes them instantly recognizable as SANYO YAMACHO .

This time, we'd like to take another look at the SANYO YAMACHO brand. Our guide will be Shinpei Saruwatari, the manager who has been the backbone of the brand since its inception.



"It's been almost 20 years since we launched the brand, and we've certainly developed a good eye for leather. Now, we're confident that we're sourcing the best leather of the year, without being constrained by the tannery's name. And then there's the production site. For 20 years, we've been working closely with the same factory, dedicated to craftsmanship. The factory, located on the outskirts of Asakusa, is so small that you might walk right past it if you didn't know it was there (laughs). But it's a rare factory where the good old craftsmanship is passed down through generations."

Released in the brand's 15th anniversary year, "Kiwami" represented a pinnacle of the brand's craftsmanship. Features included a beveled waist, fiddleback, pitched heel, seamless heel, and curled edge. While these specifications originated from bespoke shoemaking, the curled edge might be unfamiliar even to shoe enthusiasts. The beauty of this finish, achieved by thinning the edge and literally rolling it up before stitching, is immediately apparent compared to previous designs.



The comfort level has also improved dramatically. The newly designed flexible Goodyear welted construction incorporates the gutter-raising process of hand-sewn welting, resulting in excellent flexibility. Instead of the familiar cork, felt was chosen for the insole. This was done in pursuit of even greater flexibility, but the 5mm thickness does not pose any problems in terms of durability.

While maintaining the upper design and form that define the shoe's face, they strive to enrich its inner workings. There are few brands to which the word "unwavering dedication" fits so perfectly.

SANYO YAMACHO shoes, without the need for traditional Japanese footwear, are comparable to Western shoes in quality.

Sowing the seeds for the next 20 years, and the 100 years beyond.



Walking through Asakusa these days, you'll see not only tourists from overseas but also many young people who look like creators.

The Japanese shoe industry was once a declining industry, but the tide turned at the end of the 20th century. The turning point was when countless young people, dissatisfied with the business model of the Showa era, aspired to become shoemakers, and SANYO YAMACHO played a key role in supporting this trend. These young people, who grew up in this environment, continue to support SANYO YAMACHO in various ways, both openly and behind the scenes.

Recently, SANYO YAMACHO has been unusually focused on various projects (though each one takes plenty of time to unveil). These include a collection in collaboration with shoe designer Hiroshi Tsubouchi and illustrator Hiroshi Wataya, as well as the development of cream puffs and store designs that directly address after-sales care. With its 20th anniversary just around the corner, SANYO YAMACHO is gaining more depth as a brand.


SANYO YAMACHO traces its roots back to Yamacho-jirushi Shoe Store, founded by Masaki Nagashima, a leading figure in the tangible and intangible industries. With a vision of reviving domestically produced goods, the small shop opened in Namikibashi, Daikanyama, quickly caught the attention of Isetan Men's, and the immediate pattern-order event received a record number of orders. SANYO YAMACHO is a brand that Sanyo Shokai renamed, carrying on this legacy.

"Aiming for Japonisme 100 years from now" is the new message that SANYO YAMACHO has put forward this year, and it doesn't seem like mere fantasy. Seeing their steady, step-by-step approach, I feel like they'll neatly wrap up this ambitious goal and bring it all together.


Five classic shoes made for Japanese people



Yujiro71,280 71,280 yen
View Products

SANYO YAMACHO icon


The straight-tip shoe is a symbol of SANYO YAMACHO . The last used is the R2010, which was completed in the milestone year of the brand's 10th anniversary. It is an updated version of the R202, a long-nosed , round-shaped last that has reigned as the master last since the company's founding. The silhouette, with its low instep and narrowed arch and heel, is the optimal solution derived from the foot shapes of tens of thousands of people.



Kanzaburo 97,200 yen
View Products

A pair of shoes that lets you fully appreciate the craftsmanship.


A masterpiece of the U-tip model, alongside Tomojiro. The skin stitching, which joins the mere 1.4mm cross-section, has become an icon that showcases Japanese craftsmanship. Like Tomojiro, it uses the R2010 last.



Genshiro 73,440 yen
View Products

The most beautiful double monk strap


The R2010's round shape is complemented by a strap that blends robustness and refinement at a high level, making it a leading example of the long-standing popularity of double monk straps.

Shikasaburo73,440 73,440 yen

The good old slip-on


These shoes, with their delicately woven leather mesh, evoke the classic tassel slip-ons of yesteryear. Combined with the lustrous black calf leather, they have a presence that won't be overshadowed by jacket and trousers or suits. The last used is R2010.


Shuji 38,800 yen
View Products

Next-generation straight tip


This straight-tip shoe is an updated version of the "Yu" series, which debuted in the fall of 2017 and boasts a fusion of dress shoes and sneakers. With sponge padding around the opening, a low-rebound arch support insole, and a cemented rubber sole construction, it offers a sneaker-like feel. The upper design and last are the same specifications as the Tomojiro model.

Photo: Shimpei Suzuki
Text: Kei Takegawa

*All prices include tax.

inquiry
Isetan Shinjuku Store, Men's Building , B1F = Men's Shoes
03-3352-1111 (main representative)