Whether they are masters of classics or those who inherit traditions while taking on new challenges to suit the modern era, their approaches vary, but their attitude towards craftsmanship and the passion they harbor for each stitch are strong. This article is a record of interviews conducted by Tomohiro Inaba and Yuki Kuchimoto, who are in charge of men's tailored clothing, during their visit to Naples, Italy in January 2019. It focuses on "Neapolitan tailoring," which is only completed through delicate handiwork, and delves into the stories behind the people involved and the products.

The second installment features Vanacore. We visited the next generation of shirtmakers.

Salvatore Nunziata of Vanacore

A new sensibility that embraces trends while carrying on tradition.

Vanacore's workshop is located in Portici, a small town 7km southeast of the center of Naples, Italy. The town boasts charming streets paved with cobblestones made from lava from Mount Vesuvius, and colonnades and bay windows adorned with beautiful stucco decorations in pink and yellow.

The company was founded over 40 years ago by a man who was involved in making shirts for Luigi Borrelli. In the past, they handled OEM production for famous brands, but now they only produce Vanacore shirts, and the second generation, Salvatore Nunziata, is in charge of the factory. He is only 24 years old.

In the back of the workshop, fabrics are stocked in rolls, and the ordered patterns are selected. The crucial cutting process for matching patterns is done by hand. Areas requiring strength are sewn by machine. After that, the essence of Neapolitan tailoring is revealed: hand sewing.

Upon entering the workshop, the first thing that caught my eye were the women dressed in blue work clothes, befitting the port city of Naples. They all lived near the workshop, loved their community, and loved their work. Some of them had been working there since the company's founding, and some were even second-generation employees from the same family.

"That's always been the case in Naples. Women are good with their hands, aren't they? (laughs)"

Salvatore was joking about it, but I remembered what Anna Matuozzo had said: "Shirtmaking is a job that requires delicacy and patience," and somehow it made sense to me.

These women produce approximately 60 garments per day. Of course, for items with many hand-processing steps, the production quantity decreases as the number of orders increases.

The hand-stitching process involves up to 16 locations, including straight sections that would normally be sewn by a sewing machine, to create the dynamic gathers and drapes that result from the soft tailoring, as exemplified by the Manica Camicia. I was constantly amazed by the speed and precision of their hands as I witnessed them in person.

A bespoke order event for Spacca Neapolis, designed by Salvatore's friend Nicola Radano (pictured left), is also scheduled to be held for two days only, on March 16th (Saturday) and 17th (Sunday).

The shirts sold at Isetan Men's are ready-made, yet they are exclusively crafted with nine hand-stitched details. While they are full of features that fully embody Neapolitan style, the extensive use of hand-stitching aims to make men look elegant and highlight their individuality.

On March 16th (Saturday) and 17th (Sunday), a special order event will be held, featuring Salvatore Nunziata himself. True to Salvatore's positive attitude towards challenging new markets, a new collar style that will be launched next season will also be making an appearance.

Event Information

Vanacore Order Event

□March 16th (Sat) and 17th (Sun)
□ Isetan Shinjuku Store, Men's Building 5th Floor = Men's Tailored Clothing

Order Details ■Price: Shirts from 32,400 yen ■Delivery: Approximately 3 months later

*All prices include tax.

Text: ISETAN MEN'S net

inquiry
Isetan Shinjuku Store, Men's Building 5th Floor = Men's Tailored Clothing
03-3352-1111 (main representative)