[Interview] ED ROBERT JUDSON Ken Ezaki | New yet familiar designs born from the fusion of opposing elements
Ed Robert Judson is a fictional craftsman created to represent the freedom of craftsmanship. In today's world, which is centered on mass consumption, this character is designed to create a unique worldview that blends a nostalgic longing for a bygone era with a completely new approach.
With the concept of idea tools created by a fictional craftsman, designer Ken Ezaki vowed to create new things without being bound by conventional ideas when he launched the company.
"I launched the brand in 2009, and it's been about seven years now, but my basic approach to craftsmanship hasn't changed. It's about creating something a little inventive, something unconventional, made by a fictional craftsman named Ed Robert Judson. I didn't originally study leather crafting; I started by making clothes."
After becoming a working adult, Ezaki worked for a certain apparel company while pursuing leather crafting as a hobby. Eventually, he started ED ROBERT JUDSON with the desire to "create something new, something that would excite everyone."
What you can sense from these items is a clear sense of craftsmanship, clearly indicating they were created by human hands. Carefully tanned leather with a natural sheen, combined with metal imbued with a Bauhaus-esque charm. They are both futuristic and somehow nostalgic.

Left/ “HELIX” 16,200 yen , Right/ “HOOKE” 16,200 yen
"What I want to create are idea tools that are an extension of everyday life. The coin case, which we've been making since the first season, is one of the brand's iconic pieces."
While retaining the sliding mechanism of a typical zippered coin purse, this design uses a spring instead of a zipper. And when closing, the spring allows for a one-touch closure. This new idea, which balances functionality and design, is presented in the work."
And these kinds of works are also closely related to the origin of Ed Robert Judson's name.
The zipper is said to have been invented by 19th-century American inventor Whitcomb L. Judson. Robert Hooke, who is believed to have recognized the existence of gravity before Newton, also left his mark on textbooks with his research on the elasticity of springs. Springs and zippers—this brand name is derived from the names of these two geniuses. The coin case, which opens and closes with a spring instead of a zipper, can be seen as an item created as an homage to these two geniuses.

So, what about Ed?
The works reflect the artist's connection with Japanese craftsmen. For example, the springs that frequently appear are made by craftsmen in small town factories who skillfully operate old machinery. The unusual mechanisms are not supported by assembly line work, but by bag makers who meticulously handle every step from start to finish by themselves.
When it comes to leather, they also offer items made with "white tanned leather," a material that can only be produced using the water quality of the rivers flowing through Himeji City. This demonstrates to the world that Japanese leather has its own unique appeal and is just as good as the Italian leather that is generally considered the best.
In short, "Edo" represents a commitment to craftsmanship rooted in Japanese tradition. Therefore, the designs possess a minimalist beauty reminiscent of a Japanese dry landscape garden ("karesansui"). The approach is to "stretch away as much as possible." Sometimes, by pushing this to the point of "removing" elements, something entirely different from the original function is born.
"I place great importance on the concept of 'gap,' and by combining contrasting materials or doing the opposite of a certain process, something extraordinary can be created. For example, one way to do this is to combine natural leather with artificial industrial parts. Also, the finely hand-sewn stitches aim to resemble machine stitches. This is to express the freedom and robustness of hand-sewing in a precise and understated way, like that of a machine."

"BUND" 31,320 yen
There's another iconic item: a bifold wallet secured with an elastic band. This one is a "binder-style wallet where all the parts, such as the coin purse and bill compartment, can be removed."
"We determine the size of the wallets based on the specifications of the binder hardware, not the size of the banknotes. That's why a 10,000 yen bill fits just barely. If there was a little more room, it would fit easily, but then we would have to compromise on the design. Finding the right balance is extremely important, but I think that this 'difficulty' is also part of the charm of this brand."
In our pursuit of convenience and rationality, and by embracing the wave of digitalization, we have become wealthier than ever before. Yet, at the same time, there is no doubt that we instinctively crave physical experiences. That is why we sigh with delight at the feel of soft leather and are moved by the unexpected movements of metal.
" Isetan Shinjuku Store, Men's Building 1st Floor, the men's accessories section mainly carries prestigious factory brands from both Japan and abroad. We believe ED ROBERT JUDSON can be differentiated from others as a designer brand that combines experimental concepts with solid Japanese craftsmanship. We hope it will become a brand that many people will talk about."
Ed Robert Judson, a designer who doesn't actually exist, creates unexpected and heartwarming products. Ezaki will continue to explore new designs and values.
Ken Ezaki
Born in 1984. He worked in design and planning at a certain apparel company. He began making leather crafts on his own. Then, in 2009, he launched ED ROBERT JUDSON . Since then, he has continued to create items that are close to everyday life with his original ideas.
Text: Morishita Ryuta
Photo: Ozawa Tatsuya
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