2015.10.09 update

[Special Feature] What is the appeal of Bishu wool, a traditional Japanese textile that Japan can be proud of?

Blessed with the rich natural environment of the Kiso River basin, Bishu (the western part of Owari in Aichi Prefecture and the Seino region in Gifu Prefecture) has developed into a major textile production area, adapting to the times with its focus on hemp, silk, cotton, and wool. The strength of the Bishu industry lies in the division of labor and collaboration among the many processes involved in producing woven fabric from yarn to finished product, all within the same region. From spinning and twisting to dyeing, weaving, and finishing, a wide range of companies are involved in each process, each cultivating its own unique technology. Approximately 80% of Japan's domestic wool textile production comes from this region.


The charm of Owari cannot be described in a single sentence.

From the yarn to weaving, knitting, and finishing processes, each stage of production involves a wide variety of manufacturing techniques. Even within the main category of woolen fabrics, there is a great deal of variety, and it's impossible to generalize about Bishu's materials. From solid and honest men's materials to colorful women's materials, there are many different types of textiles within each genre, and that's what makes Bishu so fascinating.


(Left) The finished fabric differs depending on how the yarn is twisted. The appearance of the yarn changes. The needles lined up in a fingertip-sized tube are a machine for knitting lily yarn. (Right) The texture of the fabric changes with finishing processes. Fluffiness, sheen, fulling... It's hard to believe that several samples are originally made from the same material.



The yarn, wound in a state known as "cheese," is packed into a dyeing carrier. High temperatures ensure uniform dyeing all the way to the core.


The knit fabric produced by the circular machine becomes a comfortable sweater or sweatshirt. Whether solid colors or multi-colored jacquards, the design possibilities are endless depending on the knitting technique.



A new challenge utilizing traditional techniques

Bishu wool boasts such high quality that it can be compared to the world-renowned wools of Biella and Prato in Italy. To showcase this remarkable craftsmanship within Japan, Mitsukoshi Isetan has decided to collaborate with approximately 20 wool textile factories in Bishu. Using Bishu fabrics, more than 20 brands will be launching Bishu collections exclusively at Mitsukoshi Isetan.

The suits we're introducing today use two types of fabric: "Bishu Slow Fabric," which expresses a traditional texture using traditional methods, and "Bishu Tweed," which was designed to suit the Japanese lifestyle. Both Slow Fabric and Tweed come in several varieties, and each brand brings out the unique characteristics of each fabric. You're sure to discover the new charm of Bishu wool.



Left: PAUL STUART suit 151,200 yen
Right: J.PRESS suit 118,800 yen



PAUL STUART , which champions contemporary classic style, has chosen a dark navy worsted fabric that has a classic feel yet a fresh look. The twill weave creates a textured surface with a voluminous feel. This three-piece suit with a double-breasted vest is utterly elegant.

J.PRESS also features a navy worsted fabric that aims for a nationally recognized fabric texture, characterized by its unique firmness, resilience, and suppleness. The jacket, with its elegant wide lapels, is paired with two-pleat trousers, expressing classic elegance in a modern silhouette.



Left: Timothy Everest London Suit 120,960 yen
Right: MACKINTOSH LONDON suit, 172,800 yen
The Timothy Everest jacket uses a navy worsted fabric with burgundy stripes. The vintage-like texture is given a sophisticated, urban finish with the brand's signature sharp silhouette. It's a piece that inherits the traditional techniques of Savile Row while expressing the spirit of the present era.

This suit, from MACKINTOSH LONDON , incorporates details typical of British brands, such as a well-defined shoulder line and slant pockets. The medium gray worsted fabric is twill-woven, giving the surface an antique-like nuance. The result is a suit imbued with the spirit of tradition.



Left: Tailor & Cutter three-piece suit 216,000 yen (order price)
Right: Tailor Kade three-piece suit, 216,000 yen (order price)
Tailor & Cutter presents a delightful design featuring a midnight blue fabric that appears solid, yet incorporates playful nep textures. The simple material is elegantly complemented by flared sleeves.

Tailor Kade, which uses a monochrome herringbone fabric that has the feel of handcrafted work, has a slightly napped finish, creating a classic yet modern American traditional style.




Franco Prinzivally suit: 118,800 yen
Thick, heavy tweed doesn't suit the modern Japanese lifestyle. With that in mind, Franco Prinzivalli created suits using supple herringbone tweed. Experience the light and comfortable feel that sets them apart from traditional tweed suits.

Text: ISETAN MEN'S net

*All prices include tax.

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